Comesse

HAIRSTYLISTS LETS TRY AND BE THE CHANGE WE WANT TO SEE IN THE WORLD

2011-10-25T11:38:00.000-07:00

For the past four years, I have been blogging about most things beauty related. As time passed and my experience progressed creatively and, more importantly, personally, it has brought about a change in my writing and my perception of beauty that continues to evolve to this day.

Professional change:

As my last experience in NYC, I worked for one of the best hairstylists in the world at O'rlo Salon (Orlando Pita). Working at O'rlo salon along with George Casson and Joey Martino was a life changing adventure in many ways. Let me explain.

When I interviewed for the job at O'rlo, I was interviewed by Orlando himself, which is unheard of in my industry at that level. Orlando said "I've looked over your resume, and congrats on being featured in Allure magazine, but why make a change now?"

My answer was simple. I promptly replied by saying "There's so much more to hair that I have not experienced." Orlando smiled.

Little did I know I was in for a hair-raising experience, literally! Working at O'rlo was easily the most challenging endeavor of my career. I was shown a side of hair styling that left me humbled. The message was clear: being a good hairstylist consists of three major things.

One is your God-given skills (Orlando was self-taught).

Two is that quality comes first. I was encouraged to do half my usual amount of clients on a daily basis, but to do all the work myself (no assistant doing my color or blow-drys).

And three is that as a good hairstylist, it's all about producing the best quality work possible. Put skill and quality first, and then money after. In other words, a great haircut should be able to stand on its own, without the help of smoke and mirrors

(and chandeliers, marble bathrooms, and chinaware, for that matter). What can I say? There's only one Orlo.

Yes, I was blessed with clients who would sacrifice financially to afford my prices, in exchange for my creative view. And I also enjoyed my success outside of the salon (editorial, Fashion Week, etc.). However, I always felt like something was missing. My co-workers and friends knew it too, because I did not keep it a secret.

That leads me to my next topic.

Personal change:

After moving to Miami and having some time off to reflect, what was missing came to me like a hurricane. As much as I enjoy working on women who can afford to have their hair done, what about the women (young and old) who can't afford everyday luxuries like clothes, food, and a place to live? Does this make them "less beautiful" than others?

As I came to the crossroad of my love-hate relationship with my purpose as a Hairstylist, I realized my biggest challenge would be to exist in an industry that sends this clear message: that to be beautiful, you must look a certain way.

I've decided to commit to finding a way to break away from this fallacy.

This quickly brought about my new mantra. I repeat it to women everyday: "A woman's strongest asset is her individuality."

For me, this mantra is meant to remove the myth for our young women that to be beautiful (and accepted), you must look like everyone else. Please know that you are beautiful as you are and you don't need me to make you feel beautiful. A blow-dry only lasts a day, but inner love for yourself lasts a lifetime.

Being blessed with creative abilities, I find it important to work through organizations to share my creative gift with women who cannot afford the pleasure of my professional experience. This means extending my hair care to women and girls in orphanages and hospices.

I invite anyone who knows of any group of women in South Miami that can use my services. It would be my pleasure to help.

I invite you to write me with any questions, and I urge other hairstylists to make a difference by sharing their skills with the less fortunate.

ANTONIO LOVES LOVELEXI.ORG

2011-10-12T11:19:00.000-07:00

I am fortunate to experience so many wonderful people, places and moments through my love for hair. Being a hairstylist, my job is to educate, create and inspire women, but for me that's just the beginning.

More than pruning the tresses of ladies and the crown of gents, I truly believe it is my responsibility to help people of all ages feel better from the inside out. Whenever I can, I also love to help raise money with my styling skills. Which is what makes the story I’m about to share, so positive and fun.

Let me introduce you to a very special friend of mine, Lexi Lehrman. I first met Lexi when she accompanied her mom and brothers for a haircut. Within no time I was taken with Lexi’s politeness, smile and her overall positive energy. As I got to know her, I learned that this dynamic 13 year old had raised over $40,000 to support the fight against breast cancer and was the founder of the Love Lexi Fund (www.lovelexi.org).

Let's jump into my Q&A with Lexi so you can hopefully give her your support.

Antonio- Hey girly!

A- Can you share with us when you realized you wanted to devote your time to help others?

L- Well, when I was 8 years old my mother and I went to Dunkin Donuts and I saw a pink donut and thought to myself “everybody loves donuts, they should use them to raise money for charity!” On my way home I looked outside the window and saw a pink breast cancer license plate and looked at the pink donut then looked at the license plate again. I immediately associated the two and thought instead of waiting for someone else to use the donuts to raise money…what about me?

That night we went online and found the Susan G. Komen Miami/Ft. Lauderdale Chapter. I sent them an email asking if they had a way for people to donate online in honor of someone and that my birthday was coming up and I’d like to raise money instead of getting gifts. The next day I got an email back and they said no, but to hold on and see what they could do. They got back to us a little while later and asked if I’d test out a new “Friends Asking Friends” online donation program and everything took off from there.

A Birthday Party with A Purpose was born and I raised about $3,600 for my 9^th birthday! It was very exciting!

A- In what other ways do you raise money for cancer?

L- From this first experience, I quickly learned the gift of saving a life is much greater than receiving any birthday present. So now for my birthday, or even the holidays, I ask friends and family to donate to the Love Lexi Fund instead of presents. Don’t get me wrong, I always appreciate the few that slip through! But I honestly don’t really NEED anything other than love, food and a roof over my head. And absolutely NOTHING compares to the feeling when you’ve truly helped make a difference in someone else’s life. I know you know what I’m talking about!!!

A- So I see you're an artist, how did you come up with the idea of combining art with your cause?

L- Well, if there are two things I love to do they are helping people and creating art. My birthday parties turned into painting parties when I tried to come up with something to do that was fun for my 10^th birthday. Since I love to paint and my friends wouldn’t be watching me really “open” any gifts as an activity, I figured I’d give them something fun to do. So I asked each one of my friends to paint their own interpretation of the breast cancer ribbon. Even the guys had fun! Then we went bowling. At first I thought I’d sell the paintings to raise money, then a company called Mail America stepped up and offered to make them into posters. I put them all together in a collage and poof! The first Love Lexi poster! We sold them at the Komen Race for the Cure that October (which is Breast Cancer Awareness Month) and raised all kinds of money with 100% of the proceeds going to the Komen Miami/Ft. Lauderdale Chapter!!!

At that first race, it was incredible to have so many people come to our Love Lexi Tent, see the poster and begin to cry. I knew I had discovered my mission. I called it Art For The Cure and it is now a project that has taken on a life of it’s own! I pick a theme for the poster each year and have had some incredible opportunities to paint additional posters with incredible artists like Romero Britto and Ferdie Pacheco, who’ve helped me raise even more money. Many people still ask for the “Peace for the Cure” poster I did with Ferdie, who was Mohammed Ali’s fight doctor!

A- I was fortunate enough to donate haircuts to your last event, tell us more about it and the upcoming event on October 15th?

L- This year has been a tough one for me. My Auntie Mary was diagnosed with stage 3 breast cancer around my birthday, I was so sad I couldn’t pull together a painting party. But a few months later, when my aunt was going through a particularly tough time, I heard my mom tell her that she was her “wing girl.” Bam! I had it. I asked the Komen Miami/Ft. Lauderdale chapter executive director, Bobbie Meyers to help me pull together some survivors for a painting party and told her my theme. She loved it and helped me immediately. So this year my theme is “Every Survivor Needs A Wing Girl.” We had each of the survivors paint their “wing girl” stories at Painting with a Twist in Miami – who donated everything. Although my mom brought pink Champaign and I made pink cupcakes, your gift certificates for all the survivors to get a chance to be styled by you (we gave them a copy of your Allure Magazine article LOL) was really the big hit of the night!

I decided to send a canvas to my Auntie Mary and do a “wing girl” painting and poster with her. She drew it and I painted it. The two “angel” hearts represent her daughter, my cousin, Missy and my Nana,

her and my mom’s Mother.

We lost them both a few years ago. Not to cancer but it sure made us very aware of how difficult it is to survive losing someone so precious.

I’m very grateful that all the survivors who painted with me are planning on joining me on stage at the Race for the Cure that day!!! We will be promoting “our” poster (my painting is the green one with the pink ribbon) and we will be selling them hopefully like hot cakes (as my Dad might say).

A- What advice do you have for kids (and adults) who are considering devoting time to helping others?

L- All I have to say is find a cause you really believe in and try your best! My mom gets all mushy about it and is always encouraging my brothers and I to do things that “nurture your soul.” And it is true…mushy but true. This work really nurtures that good feeling you get by making a difference. I’m Jewish and in the Talmud it has a passage (roughly translated) “If you save one soul it is as if you save the world.” I think just about every religion has a belief that supports that thought. I think keeping that intention in mind is what can motivate us all to do good things together.

I love you Antonio, for every kind and thoughtful thing you’ve done for me. This interview is a wonderful gift to help me connect to more people. I want to encourage anyone to come join us online and join Team Love Lexi to help raise more money!!!! http://miamiftl.info-komen.org/goto/JoinTeamLoveLexi

MY RECENT WORK IN MIAMI.

2011-10-07T08:30:00.000-07:00

ORLANDO PITA AND GAGA!!!!

2011-09-13T18:25:00.000-07:00

MY HAIR GOD ORLANDO PITA!!

Who can say that they have done hair for the best music videos Madonna ever made, and now more than a decade later grace Lady Gaga with the same fierceness? Orlando Pita can!! I am so happy to report that my former employer and friend Orlando has always and still is creating hairstyles that is inspiring the next generation!!

HIS FACEBOOK PAGE
Just a few unforgettable moments by Orlando Pita.

MY RECENT WORK IN MIAMI.

2011-09-09T07:50:00.000-07:00

I really focused on texture with this hairstyle. With so much perfect looking hair on the streets its nice to see hair that's just slept in and messy.

5 MINUTE UPDO.

2011-08-31T12:21:00.000-07:00

After we completed the last shoot with the black wig,the photographer asked me to put the models hair up for some last minute photos. I quickly took off the wig, twisted her hair threw in some pins and ran out the door!

The results were not too bad:)

Antonio Gonzales

MY RECENT WORK IN MIAMI.

2011-08-23T08:24:00.000-07:00

ALL ABOUT THE WIG.

I wanted to take a beautiful blond and transform her. I had a wig that was brown so I decided to color it black using Aveda hair color. After coloring it I applied a shine treatment by Sebastian (Cellophanes) which contains no Peroxide or Ammonia.

Then I cut the wig dry using a razor. Here you have the finished product..

BEFORE

AFTER

Antonio Gonzales

HELPFUL HOW-TO-HAIR VIDEOS CAN HURT YOU.

2011-08-17T10:28:00.000-07:00

A new client arrived for an appointment and the first thing the entire salon noticed was her very dark hair and her very orange ends.

As I started my consultation I could feel the extreme damage and fragility of the ends with my fingers. We talked about her haircut, then it was time for a serious color conversation. She instantly admitted she’d viewed some “do-it-yourself” Ombré color videos on YouTube, and this was the result.

For those of you who don't know, “Ombré” is a french word describing the transitioning of color from light to dark or from one color to another.Its generally used to describe the color on fabric but was taken up to describe hair color.

This look on hair has also been around forever, sometimes intentionally sometimes not. It was just made more marketable to get the attention of fad hungry fans.

Whose fault is it that this young lady ended up with broken orange hair? Is it the client for not realizing that a color technique like that is for professionals only? Or is it the person who made the do-it-yourself YouTube video promising perfect results? Sadly, I would say both. Perhaps the client was naive, but the “professional” in the video should have known better. Unfortunately, this merry little video mayhem maker was looking more for attention, rather than delivering great results for viewers.

Work with what you’ve got!

There are many things that can be taught in do-it-yourself videos. Hair coloring that requires a professional is simply not one of them. Understanding color chemistry and the reaction to color on hair is one of the many vital keys to achieving good results. Not only is the chemistry of color important to know, the correct application cannot be self-applied. Even if you ask someone else to apply it, if they have no knowledge of hair or color, this still remains a formula for disaster.

The lesson to be learned here is to work with what you have and can afford. If you see a hair color that you must have then save for it. It may mean not going to the bar on Friday or buying those new shoes. It may even mean you are better off without it and leave your natural color. As a hairstylist, I can assure you that color correction one of the biggest tickets to get written in any salon. When a client walks in with an "at home” color job gone wrong, it can cost her $300 to $1,500 (yes…fifteen hundred) to repair a $10, and in this case YouTube video, mistake.

Speaking of the Internet…

During a live online interview recently, I was asked to assess someone's hair and make a decision on whether they should relax it or do a Keratin treatment. I quickly admitted I was in no position to answer the question. It is impossible to assess someone's hair when you can't see it, touch it and have a meaningful conversation about the person’s expectations, lifestyle and interest in maintenance. In all candor, I will admit to violating this rule. In the past I have had readers ask for recommendations on hair color, but only after they've provided extensive information on their hair, color and current color formula, did I respond. However, I always have included a strong disclaimer: “Unless I can see your hair in person, there are no guarantees Honey!”

Antonio Gonzales

PRENANCY + HAIR = BEAUTIFUL!!

2011-08-03T14:34:00.000-07:00

One of my clients came into the salon I instantly noticed something very different: her hair was soooo thick! I commented, “Darling, your hair is gorgeous!” She smiled and casually shrugged it off. Two months later, she admitted she was pregnant. Let me tell you honey, the next time you even think you are pregnant, book an appointment and I will do the rest! LOL!

Image courtesy of my client Beatriz Royo at BHH Portraits.

Pregnancy and hair can be a very complicated. Between the chemicals to avoid and the weight gain that can’t be, I encounter many challenges with my clients as they prepare to go through the changes that happen during pregnancy. So, even before you are pregnant and you start thinking about having the stork deliver you a bundle of joy, here are some helpful tips:

A) If you have short hair, think about whether or not you would like to keep short hair as you gain weight. I recommend growing your hair a little to create some soft layers against the cheek and neckline. As time passes and you get closer to giving birth, apart from thinking about what makes you look great more importantly, think about what’s easy to manage.

B) If you have long hair, I would recommend making little changes to your style. As you gain weight soften your look by taking the length up a bit and add layers (if you don't have any). While length is good to have, there is no need to condemn yourself to a ponytail during pregnancy or after. If you have bangs you may want to consider growing them out. Having a fringe (bangs) can be a bit annoying once the baby arrives and you have much less time for yourself.

C) If you're a Blond that's a natural Brunette and you plan not to color your hair during pregnancy (which is advised) here's some advise for you. Start going darker gradually while planning to become pregnant, this way you won't have to worry about missing color appointments in your first four months of pregnancy and showing extreme roots.

D) Whatever your hair texture, start working with your hairstylist on techniques to achieve quick, easy styles. You can even invest in some beautiful hair bands or clips (no butterfly clips please).

I'm looking forward to hearing the pitter-patter of little feet :)

Antonio Gonzales

NO MORE WAVES, TIME FOR SHORT HAIR WITH AN EDGE.

2011-07-31T09:07:00.000-07:00

U.S. Domination Is Over

Long wavy curls have dominated the hair styling world for way too long.

Not only has the style been abused, it actually takes away from a woman's individuality, having women of every ethnicity looking, the same with long lovely locks. It encouraged women to hold on to their long hair in order to feel they were sporting a modern look. In actuality, it has women who should not have long hair feel like they should. But to what end? To wear an unflattering look to feel like they belonged? The choice is theirs.

Now some feel that the next fad is the short wave bob, boring!!

As hairstylists, it is important to help our clients maintain their individuality. A woman's hair should only not reflect the latest fad, but be an expression of the woman herself. In other words…there should never be identical copying of hairstyles for every woman big or small short or tall. I see Fashion magazines promoting a certain haircut as the latest trend for everyone, bad idea, that's so 1980's. Explain to the client that if she's walking down the street and sees 10 other women sporting the same popular style, then it's time to rethink her hairdo (or hair don't).

I'm happy to report that we are turning a new page.

The Long & Short Of It

With new fads around the corner, I want to share my views on what I'm seeing coming forward. Are you ready? Brace yourself. Chic short hair!

This fad is for the woman who feel's secure enough to rock this “new” style (no matter what their friends say). This fad will also challenge us hairstylists. It is not only about taking hair and drastically cutting it shorter, it is about working on the client who is ready for a change and for whom the change is appropriate.

Add your personal creativity, listen to your client and take into consideration the reality of her lifestyle needs, then create a style that is made to fit. Make sure of you are offering her this short chic look that it suits her facial shape, neckline and shoulder width. Add your personal creativity, listen to your client and take into consideration the reality of her lifestyle needs, then create a style that is made to fit.

What is very different about the previous “Victoria Beckham cut” (which dominated the streets for way too long)

compared to this cut is its sophistication, strength and femininity.

The techniques we use to achieve this cut are important, its about sculpting the hairstyle be it wet or dry, via scissors or razor. Strong shapes are important but keep away from the drastic A-line or bulky graduated bobs. Styling results that are very versatile also are important, it's about precision without being dated, bulky or “Beckem”.

Only a great hair cut can be easy to style in different ways.

Color will also play an increasing part in this refreshed short style. Trends now show it's not about chunks of highlights or a slice of pink. If you want pink, go for it!

Antonio Gonzales

STOP THE FAKE CURLS AND WAVES!!!!!!!!

2011-07-26T18:18:00.000-07:00

On the Train, on the bus or on the beach, its curls, waves, curls!!!! I am forced to repost this article to once again show the birth of a style that women of all races have embraced. The problem is that the fad is long gone and we need to let it die a natural death...

Hairstylists if your clients are asking for waves of this type be upfront, tell them that the look is dead and should be left alone. I know its not easy to deny a client a hairstyle that she (and her girlfriends) think is the trend. As a friend of mine said, once its a trend its old news!!

There are many versions of this style that are still safe to play with, but remember the messier the better. I wrote this article over 5 months ago, so if you forgot here it is(for the last time).

Minding my own business on the Q Train last week I noticed something interesting. Three girls were sporting the same hair do. All three of these girls were actually of different ethnicity which I thought was really cool. The look was longer hair with waves starting around the cheekbone area and gently falling around the face to the ends.

How sweet (I thought to myself) all these sisters are working the same look. It’s a look that's really easy to re-create but my only concern is that it’s already being over used on reality shows. Can I bear seeing every woman of all ages wearing it in NYC as well? It got me thinking so I started doing my research. When did this look go mainstream?

Well to my surprise as I looked through countless styles over the years it brought me to this image which was done by Orlando Pita in 1997.

Three years later Orlando Pita did Madonna for her music album and did these gorgeous waves that really matched her country and western style.

It seems like this style has changed a bit and has since changed size curl while becoming a little more coiffed (this look is too done for my liking).

Since then following the feel of longer sexy hair, we created the following looks for Fashion week (with much guidance and help from Orlando) for Oscar de Larenta's fall collection which was reminiscent of Farah Fawcett meets Dynasty.

The same week we worked on the Diane Von Furstenberg fall show giving a more textured messy feel that was still sexy. Orlando's words were "no tight curls please!" (we all smiled).

One week after my Q train experience I'm at the salon and noticed a version of these two looks that pushed the limit with texture and sex appeal. And to my surprise guess who styled the hair? Orlando (smile). So now, a look that may have started over ten years ago is being re-vamped and its sexier than ever!

TIP
Ladies its all about texture. Try braiding your hair when you go to bed, in the morning take pieces of hair and style with your iron as usual. In other words, messier is better. Or you can even do your hair the night before with the curling iron and sleep on it, and before you leave home use some Elevate by Orlando Pita to give your hair that texture that only the beach and a good roll in the hay can give (without the salt or the straw). Even braiding the hair in smaller sections and going over it with a flat iron can create the illusion of a messier slept in texture.

I wish you all messy sexy hair this summer!

TRINIDADIAN FRIEND AND CELEBRITY FASHION STYLIST FREDDIE LEIBA DOES BEYONCE!

2011-07-20T18:35:00.000-07:00

I first met Freddie in 1990 through his long time buddy Anthony Medina. It was my first time traveling to the U.S. and was blown away by Freddie's talent, generosity and sense of humor. Since then Freddie has always been an inspiration to me and always will.

Congrats Freddie!

MY RECENT WORK IN MIAMI.

2011-06-25T06:38:00.000-07:00

KINDLY ASK YOUR HAIRSTYLIST FOR A CLEAN HAIR BRUSHES!!

2011-06-22T14:34:00.000-07:00

Did you know that a hairstylist using a brush full of someone else’s hair to style you is almost the same as brushing your teeth with someone else’s toothbrush?

As a client, there are many things you deserve and I’d like to touch on one of them today; clean hair brushes. Have you ever sat in your hairstylist’s chair and seen them reach for the brush only to catch a previous client’s hair staring right back at you? Well, I have. In my many years working in the beauty industry I’ve seen many a brunette pay good money for a style only to leave with someone else’s blonde hair on her shoulders, NOT COOL!

Ladies, gents, heed my words of experience and wisdom on a topic most hairstylists aren’t rushing to open up about. If you’ve never really considered it, let me offer you some food for thought… when a brush is used on a freshly shampooed head of hair, the hairstylist has no way of telling if the client has a scalp condition shampooing won’t get rid of and as the hair is being dried, the brush rubs up against the scalp, removing any debris (e.g. dead skin cells) and collecting some of it up in the bristles and if you happen to be “lucky” enough to follow her, you come in, hugging and kissing your stylist, completely unsuspecting of that seemingly innocent brush with a dirty little secret. Did someone say cross-contamination??? (lol!)

So here’s what I recommend; the next time you go to a salon and you see the stylist make the move to grab a dirty brush, go on a hit them with a Karate-CHOP! (just joking) No, but seriously, simply tell the stylist something along the lines of “Can you please use a clean brush on me?” Sit back and observe the stylist’s reaction; this teeny tiny request can cause one of two, the stylist will either apologize and quickly grab a clean one, or you’ll note the stylist’s embarrassment while he/she fumbles to find you a clean brush.

The reason I chose to write about this is because I want you, as the client, to know that you’re not being a nuisance; you have a right to a clean brush every single time you have your hair styled at a salon. Yeah, I said it; a clean brush is your RIGHT. I don’t know if you knew this but, the State Board of Cosmetology REQUIRES that clean and dirty brushes be kept separately from one another so as to avoid contamination like the kind I just described, so I’m not the only one telling you it’s your right, this is the law!

With all of what I’ve just shared with you, I hope you’re inspired to set the standard when it comes to what tools you allow a stylist to use while working on your hair…

I wish you all clean brushes and healthy scalps!!!

CHRIS CARRABBA AND TAYLOR SWIFT BACKSTAGE.

2011-06-17T14:43:00.000-07:00

As usual seeing Chris Carrabba for his haircuts is always a treat. This time we cut and styled his hair for his recent performance, here he is backstage with Taylor Swift!! Chris thanked me once again for keeping his hair up-to-date and fresh for his very busy lifestyle.

See you soon buddy!!

FAREWELL WAYNE BERKELEY.

2011-06-09T17:02:00.001-07:00

Over 20 years ago I was Introduced to Mas man Wayne Berkeley through his long time friend Anthony Medina. From the get go, Wayne was very warm, caring and willing to share his extensive creativity with anyone who wanted to experience it. As time passed I was one of many people around the world to experience Wayne's generosity with his gifts, endless efforts to share his creative (sparing no expense) and his warm laugh that accompanied it all.

Time after time Wayne's love for Carnival and anything to do with design has emerged as original and powerful as no other. Some of my best years of Carnival was in Wayne's band wearing his fabulous costumes and seeing Wayne zipping through the band celebrating with his masqueraders.

Today I was able to see Mr. Berkeley before his passing and say my official goodbye. Wayne you have been an incredible inspiration to me, your generosity has captured my heart and your legendary talent has affected my soul.

Thanks Wayne, you will never been forgotten!

BIKE RIDING IN TOBAGO.

2011-06-08T19:45:00.000-07:00

Meet The Unofficial Ambassador of Tobago!

If you are thinking of visiting Tobago for its incredible rain forest and spectacular diving, how about an amazing bike ride? Let me back track a little. About 20 years ago I met my friend Eamon, one of the best unofficial ambassadors of Tobago there is. With his positive vibes and love for Tobago, I immediately knew we would get along. Whenever I return to Tobago, I always make sure to visit Eamon and am consistently welcomed with a warm, friendly hello.

Among the many outdoor activities I enjoy in Tobago, I had never experienced a bike ride with Eamon across the island. I have to tell you, this is the island I ran wild on! It is an island I thought I knew so well...until today!

We scheduled a 3pm ride. I went to Eamon’s home and was embraced by Fat boy, one of his dogs.

We talked a bit and I got a bike, helmet and gloves and we were off. Eamon served as my trusted tour guide. Pssssssssh! Like I needed one!

We rode through village after village…all fairly familiar and expected. All of a sudden, I found myself being lead through back yards, passing goats, chickens and smiling kids asking us to perform tricks on our bikes. Eamon was more than happy to please them. And as quickly as it had begun, all of a sudden I found myself standing at the crest of spectacular cliff towering over crystal clear blue/green water and rocks.

My jaw literally dropped. Eamon simply smiled and led us on to our next destination. Before you know it, we were riding through a fishing village,

through a park and climbing steep hills. I honestly thought I had experienced it all until we were riding through a lush estate.

All of a sudden we came upon an amazing white sand pit surrounded by blue waters. Nirvana!

Eamon thankfully dug in to his back pack and pulled out some healthy snacks. We chatted in this private paradise a bit, then recharged, we hit the pedals again. On the way back, we thought we accidentally ran over a 4 foot snake! To my bloody surprise, Eamon jumped off his bike and ran into the bushes to make sure the snake was okay.

Would you believe he not only caught the snake (which we thankfully did not hurt), but he also picked it up and apologized for scaring it! He then released the reptile back to the bushes.

I am simply blown away by his compassion for all living things. That compassion and passion also extends to the flora and fauna native to our beloved Trinidad and Tobago. On our way back he described the many crabs that were along our track scurrying about with bright orange legs. They kept disappearing, one after the other, like a wave of fire it was spectacular!

We carefully crossed a major road and headed into an area called Friendship Estate. I was familiar with the Friendship Estate, but not like this! It is extremely lush with many small streams covered with big rocks and large tree roots protruding from the earth and water. It’s like a scene from Jurassic park! Needless to say our adrenaline rush continued! Off we went sweating and thirsty, ready to find our way home.

If you want to get a view of Tobago that you won’t get from a boat, plane or car, I highly recommend Amon for a visually stimulating experience while you stay healthy.

Great job Eamon!

Email: tobagomountainbike@hotmail.com
Phone: (868)332 5872

ITS A VITACARE WORLD!!

2011-05-24T05:46:00.000-07:00

Feeling not so fresh? Bad breath getting you down? Well, I have great news for you!! As you all know, when I find a product that I love I have to share it with my readers. Be it hair products, a place to shop or my favorite personal trainer, giving you recommendations on products and services that work is my passion.

My latest find that I can’t get enough of? Vitacare Toothpaste,mouth wash and teeth whitening chewing gum! Now that I’ve discovered this gingivitis fighting gem, I can't seem to live without it!

Toxic Toothpaste!

For many years, regular fluoride toothpaste consistently has been proven to cause numerous negative side effects, from fluoride poisoning to skeletal fluorosis. Since I tend to prefer to avoid toxic levels of anything, I have continuously tried as many, if not all, natural toothpastes on the market. Never once have I been satisfied. Either my teeth didn’t feel clean, or the after taste was not, well, minty fresh.

All natural & minty fresh!-

With Vitacare, my quest is over. It cleans without that annoying film over your teeth caused by other natural toothpastes, plus I love the taste! Who would have ever thought that you could brush your teeth with flavors like Key Lime, Acai and Pomegranate? On top of that, it is cruelty-free, comes in travel friendly packaging and has no parabens, phthalates, petrochemicals, sodium lauryl sulfate, sulfates, artificial colors, artificial flavors or artificial sweeteners. Wow! That was a mouthful! (Pun intended) And their alcohol free mouth wash is to die for with no artificial sweeteners and vitamin A,C,D & E.

A gum that's good for you?

Apart from their amazing tooth paste they also bring us an amazing chewing gum with its natural whitening action and vitamin A,C,D &E. This gum also helps to keep your breath fresh while balancing the mouth's oral pH reducing acid forming bacteria. Wow!!!!!

I’m ready for my close-up Mr. Demille!

I know I need to brush my teeth, but now I want to, love to and do so more often than ever before.

Thank you Vitacare!! (muah!)

BEFORE AND AFTER.

2011-05-22T15:43:00.000-07:00

Photography- Tina Wong
Model- Sophia Clerius
Makeup- Michelle Morse

THE BIG “C”

2011-05-13T20:33:00.000-07:00

A Toxic Mix

Chemotherapy is not a typical topic of conversation for hairstylists. However, it is an important conversation to have. So many of us have been affected by Cancer. It knows no prejudice and I know I'm not the only hairstylist that has had to walk a client through the change of his/her hair after treatment.

After everything is discussed about treatment, "What about my hair?" is a typical question asked by the newly diagnosed. On top of everything else the client and family must experience, there is also the loss of one's hair to deal with. As a hairstylist, I’ve come to know how important it is to help clients through this difficult, life changing experience. Imagine how difficult it must be to have Cancer not only change you, but the way the world sees you as well. Your diagnosis, your fear, your battle is no longer private. The loss of one’s hair allows the world into your private fight for life, forcing you to deal with all that added drama. But one thing I know for certain, a compassionate, knowledgeable stylist can make a tremendous difference, which is why this conversation is so important to have.

Change Can Be Good!

Many times I have seen hair change completely after treatment. The hair was straight before and is now curly, not just wavy, I mean curly! For some survivors, hair that was once super thick may never regain its thickness. Even when you expect a change, it still never ceases to shock both client and hairstylist alike. As you can imagine, it takes skill and a true understanding of hair to make someone who has had a certain hair texture all their life, to now embrace this new head of hair.

How can you make someone who has undergone so much, grow to like their new hair? This can be quite a challenge when you consider it can feel like you’ve now got someone else’s hair on your head! Not only is the change over whelming, the way they look after their hair has to drastically change as well.

For the stylist, this is where sensitivity, thought and creativity comes in. For the cancer survivor, embrace the opportunity to change. Try something different you may like it! This is when you want to make sure your existing stylist can work with your “new” hair. If they are not great with short or fine hair, do not hesitate to look elsewhere. So, get your photos ready, kick open that salon door and treat your self well. You deserve it dammit!!

The Road To Recovery

I recommend allowing hair to grow about 2 inches before taking any action. Once you are ready to restyle, the following recommendations are for both survivor and stylist alike:

Start conditioning treatments right away; getting the texture hydrated is very important. It makes the hair shinier and its ability to with stand coloring is improved ( if coloring is needed ). A great shampoo and hair mask is Age Recharge by Kerastase. Try it!! It's amazing!!!

Be gentle with the choice of colors, use demi and semi- permanent colors that have little or no ammonia rather than permanent colors. It maybe a case of trial and error as you begin to color again, because sometimes the hair may not respond as the stylist expects. Be patient.

If you decide to highlight, stay away from heat and use high lift tints (not bleach). The less stress the better.

As hair continues to grow, this is the time to invest in a great cut, a cut that is strong enough to leave you feeling comfortable with your new style.

If your hair is growing in finer than usual at the beginning, stay away form razors and thinning shears. I know, it sounds like everyone should know that right? Well don't take any chances. Be aware.

A Magic Mix

After Chemotherapy, it’s natural to want to avoid any more chemicals. I have researched many ingredients, mixing oils, fruits and even some ingredients from my native land (mosquitoes). I have also tried a few homemade recipes that are currently being advertised. Some were good, some even great, but many were just a plain old bad idea.

As always, you should be careful before you use any remedy on your hair, however, the following recipe is one that consistently works the best for me. In just in case you were wondering, it was not tested on any animals. My human “guinea pigs” are my family, friends and clients, plus my own head of hair! It’s all natural and surprisingly fun to do…so enjoy!

The Ingredients…

VERY RIPE AVOCADO: Apart from making a mean Guacamole, its has been known for its moisturizing oils.

VIRGIN OLIVE OIL: Is used all over the world in many home hair care recipes for soothing the cuticle.

ORGANIC EGG WHITE: Great source of protein.

FRESH MINT: Great in preventing static on conditioned hair.

FRESH LEMON: A natural hair brightener (don’t use lemon if hair is color treated)

The Directions…

First whisk one egg white, half an ounce of lemon juice and half an ounce olive oil in a bowl. Then crush five mint leaves and an Avocado. Combine all ingredients and whisk for five minutes. I recommend shampooing with Green Tea Clarifying Shampoo by Aubrey Organics. Start by applying your treatment to clean partially towel-dried hair, or as an intensive treatment, you can use the treatment on clean dry hair. Leave in for five minutes and then rinse well. If you have stressed, thirsty hair leave in for ten minutes and then rinse well. After rinsing, use the same shampoo, but a lot less this time. Don't worry about the shampoo stripping the treatment. This treatment is so rich you will need to use shampoo, trust me. When you are done, you will be amazed at the softness and shine. The best part? It will last for days!!

MY FRIEND AND IDOL ORLANDO PITA ON OPRAH!!!!

2011-05-09T08:55:00.000-07:00

Hello everyone, on Thursday the 12th of May Cuban born Orlando Pita will be on Oprah doing the "biggest makeover show ever!" Together with top international fashion designers and makeup artist's, it should be amazing!! Orlando has been responsible for having a huge impact in the beauty industry by setting trends worldwide, over and over again.

I worked with Orlando's team in New York city and it changed my life as a hairstylist forever, for this I am forever grateful.

Here is a link to Orlando's website and facebook fan page.

HOW TO DIVORCE YOUR HAIRSTYLIST.

2011-05-08T16:35:00.000-07:00

Let's face it, a great hairstylist is hard to come by and so is a dedicated client. But if you feel the relationship with your stylist isn’t working, and although it is a difficult conversation to have, speak up. You might just be the client to pull the blinders from your stylist’s eyes and ultimately make her or him a better stylist.

To have your voice heard, make sure to ask your hairstylist to set aside some time to have a private chat before your next appointment. Privacy is important so that you can be candid and avoid embarrassment or any interruptions by other clients or staff. Explain why you are unhappy and if you believe there is a solution, offer it. Don’t mismanage expectations by saying “darling, you know I love you and won’t go somewhere else.” At the end of the day, this is about business not romance and you actually may end up going somewhere else.

If you feel your concerns were clearly understood, then go for another service and hopefully you can reconnect. But if you leave that chair once again unhappy, then it's time to move on, unless a relationship built on bad communication, poor results and/or disrespect is your thing!

Flee A Sinking Ship-

There is nothing to gain by rearranging the deck chairs on the titanic! It’s time to step onto someone else's yacht? However, before leaving the salon forever, give the salon manager or owner the courtesy of sharing your thoughts. No one wants to see money walkout the door never to return, without knowing why, and without the ability to correct the situation for the next client.

Off To Find The Right Fit

For the client who loves their hairstylist for being thoughtful and consistent, but chooses to leave because their stylist is not skillful or up to date enough, I recommend a box of chocolate with a card with a short note. The card can easily say “It is a always a pleasure working with you but I have decided to try another stylist for now. Please know I adore you, I’m just looking for a fresh approach. I wish you all the best and I'm sure we will be in touch in the future." There is no reason to hurt someone’s feelings or burn a bridge to make a change. Always leave the door open for a return if you are not happy in the long run.

If you find yourself feeling like you’ve been through a divorce, well child, at least you don’t have to pay alimony!! ;-)

KOO KOO FOR KERATIN

2011-04-17T18:31:00.000-07:00

My work.

In a world gone Keratin craaaaaaazy, I admit I was very skeptical before I actually used it. There have been so many fads that were first loved then hated, I was determined to approach Keratin with caution and avoid the damage hair suffers when chemical hair treatments are done incorrectly.

This, by no means, is a scientific article. I simply wish to share my knowledge and experience after having now done too many Keratin treatments to count.

There are two Keratin treatments that prove most popular; the first is the Brazilian blowout and the second is Coppola. Both brands promise to remove frizz while making hair more manageable with a gentler approach. But before I get into the results of these two brands of Keratin treatments, lets go over the facts about them.

The Facts

It is a chemical treatment; anything powerful enough to change the hair structure contains chemical. Please keep in mind that Keratin, however, is not as strong as a chemical relaxer which breaks down the bonds of the hair from the inside out. Keratin affects only (well, almost only) the exterior of the hair, making the heat from a blow dryer and a straightening iron still vital to achieve "smoothing" results.

There is no question this treatment produces great results on virgin hair. It can be used on color treated hair, however, if hair is over processed, weak or damaged from color, I wouldn’t recommend doing it.

For fine, frizzy hair, Keratin makes life so much easier relieving the need to blow dry constantly. Worried about fine hair being too flat? Then don’t iron the hair as much or turn down the temperature on the iron to weaken the effects. Washing hair after two days rather than three days to lessen the full effect of the treatment is another way to keep body in the hair.

Never use Keratin on chemically relaxed hair. What results is dehydration with ends that are way too straight, leaving the ends looking like a broom.

My Experience

I prefer the Coppola Keratin treatment. I have never had an issue of it damaging hair. Once this product is applied properly, and caution is taken when working on the clients’ hair, the results are great!!

Before the Keratin is applied, the hair must be freshly shampooed and blow-dried. The blow-dry must be properly done, that means getting the roots and ends smooth; the Keratin is then applied to thin sections of the hair from the roots through to the ends on every strand, evenly.

The treatment should sit on the hair for approximately 30 minutes before blow-drying it into the hair. Again, the drying should be done using thin sections, getting the roots and ends smooth. The hair is then ironed in very thin sections with even heat from roots to ends. This is not something to rush through. When I give a client the treatment, I take all the time I need to ensure it’s done right. This process cannot be rushed through. The better the job, the longer it lasts.

Other popular treatments promise the same results, but I haven’t found any that compare to the results I get from Coppola. Coppola consistently delivers maximum results with minimal damage to the hair. As important as it is to find the right product, it is equally as important to find someone who cares for each strand and uses effective techniques.

I have come to the conclusion that all are not created equal. Other Keratin brands that were extremely popular have gotten some very bad press and Just know, the bad press tends to follow an actual treatment so make sure you know which one is being used. Also you must trust your stylist before letting them loose on your Keratin free hair. Remember it can have a positive effect but in the wrong hands the results can be negative.

Here’s to healthy, happy hair…

MY RECENT WORK.

2011-04-11T18:35:00.000-07:00

15 YEARS OF FIGHTING FRIZZ.

2011-04-07T07:56:00.000-07:00

I remember as a kid that natural hair oils were a big part of our culture when moisturizing the hair and fighting frizz. The local African, Indian and mixed races (like me) believed in their conditioning benefits and did not leave home without them. As I approached my cosmetology career, products started becoming more refined and companies started using more water-based conditioners saying that water was more moisturizing than oils. They claimed that oils were a bit harsh clogging the scalp with over absorption making ethnic hair too limp and hard to style. We as hairstylists, all welcomed the new approach to getting healthier hair with the water-based conditioning hair treatments for fighting frizz.

Then hair masks were the latest discovery, it was all about water based treatments. Product companies world wide were stressing that moisture for dehydrated hair should come from water, and hair masks were being made of water based thick creams. These creams were easily absorbed and easily rinsed, leaving your hair soft with out the oily feeling.

Then silicone-based products took the market by storm and we hairstylists were educated on the use and benefits of high-grade silicone. High-grade silicone products were easier on the hair and were removed easier compared to low-grade silicone. We are now back to hair oils which are making a huge comeback. These oils are not the old-school raw coconut oils or even professional oils (like Pink oil) that stopped working after some time. Oh no, we now have oils that has been researched, perfected for the professional and taking over the market from the U.S. to Timbuktu.

From treatments to styling products, I am bringing to you 15 years of the best hair oils, silicone's and water-based products to help fight frizz.

MY CUT AND COLOR

HAIR OILS; these should always be used sparingly.

HAMADI HEALING SERUM

Trust me when I say that this product is a healing experience for over processed hair. When I first used this product I honestly did not know what to expect. So many companies make claims to have the best product. One day I had a client for color only, she was leaving for the gym and wanted to do a rough blow dry on herself. I did not realize that she grabbed the Healing Serum by Hamadi, and she came running over to me saying; Feel my hair, feel my hair!! What is this!! Her hair felt amazing!! With an amazing blend of Organic oils such as Ylang Ylang, Palmarosa, olive and avocado just to name a few.

THE MOROCCAN OIL MIRACLE

In Trinidad this product is all sold out!! If you have not heard of this product, you need to move back to earth. This product has brought oils back to the salon with grace, delivering results that you will love. It’s an ideal product for all hair types, especially curly or frizzy hair and I love adding it to my favorite curl cream for extra support. I even add it to my hair masks for my nieces at the beach. It makes love to the hair. (smile)

NAUTRINA REJUVENATING PURE OILS

I have written about this product before so for those of you who missed it, I bring to you a safe product to add to your color to prevent any scalp irritation. It’s pretty straight forward and delivers results. In the past I’ve used all types of products for this purpose, even sugar! (I'm that old) This product is a must for your color dispensary and a few drops goes a long way. Your client will love you for it.

STYLING SILICONE'S; should be able to easily be shampooed out of the hair.
BIOSILK BY FAROUK

Oh yeah baby, it’s old school time! Back to when man was created. (just kidding) I still love this product for fighting frizz. If I'm on a shoot and for some reason I don't have my usual kit, I can run to the pharmacy and this product will deliver like it always has. It can be used on wet or dry hair, and offers great protection from heat. If you are a small first time salon owner and you can't commit to the big name brands, get this and I guarantee you and your clients will be happy.

SERUM OLEO RELAX

Don't let the name fool you. It’s not always about straightening hair to remove frizz. This high-grade silicone product can be added to curls to help control frizz when air drying. A tiny bit goes a long way so although it’s not cheap, your client will have it for a long time. Kerastase have also made a stronger product that's similar, but it’s a little too heavy for my liking. I do know that with this company, you have to carry a certain amount of the line, so it may be too expensive to stock hairstylist.

BOOST BY ORLANDO PITA +T3

Let’s bring on the big boys. This product gives a boost to hair that's dry and has also been cursed with the F word (FRIZZ). When blow drying use a tiny bit of this non-greasy weightless formula that transforms tired tresses. This fast acting nourishing and hydrating formulation aids in straightening and fighting frizz. Use on wet hair for either air drying or for blow drying. Clients with frizzy hair should also use a little bit of this product on wet hair before going in to the pool or ocean. It can also be used on dry hair before flat ironing. All of that from one little tube which is why when I talk about high-grade silicone this is what I mean.

HAIR MASKS; Great conditioners should never be full of oil because we all know that water provides moisture as well.

KERASTASE AGE RECHARGE MASK

Although it’s a pricey product, it sells itself. For me, it’s easily one of the best hair masks I have used in a very long time. On virgin or color treated hair, it will make your client’s hair feel nourished and shiny. And although it’s a cream, it will not leave your hair feeling lifeless. It really gives vitality back to stressed hair and adds shine to dull aging hair.

ANOTHER MOROCCAN MIRACLE

This luxurious hydrating mask smells so good; it makes you want to put it on your carrot cake. I love how this product feels on my own hair and I even use it as a styling product at the beach. For a deeper treatment add some of the Moroccan oil treatment to the mask and see your client’s hair come alive. Its a great way to add a service that your client really needs which is not too expensive.

PAUL MITCHELL HAIR REPAIR TREATMENT

I remember going to my first hair show in the mid- eighties and hearing about the man himself, Paul Mitchell. His passing was a huge loss to the industry, but he left behind a product line that will be known by future stylists to come. This hydrating treatment is worth having in your salon and will change your client’s hair. The best part is that it’s not too expensive and in these times that is music to our client’s ears.

I am happy to have worked with all of these products. As a hair stylist it is important to offer my clients the help they deserve.

Antonio Gonzales

MY RECENT WORK.

2011-04-05T20:08:00.000-07:00

BEAUTY FROM THE INSIDE OUT!

2011-04-01T13:51:00.000-07:00

Moving to Miami I was certain about two things: the ocean was awaiting my arrival and I was going to make a difference in Miami through beauty one head at a time.

When I say make a difference, I'm not talking about the usual cut and color for the usual clients. I mean giving freely of myself and helping women understand their inner beauty is their individual beauty. I believe, once women discover this truth, appearance and beauty come into alignment and their individuality shines.

Through a fabulous new Miami friend, I heard about Casa Valentina ; a non-profit that helps young women when they turn 18 and are cast out of the foster care system to fend for themselves.

After doing some research, I discovered just how painfully difficult life can be for these girls. I knew I had found a group of kindred spirits who could benefit from learning that beauty equals "individuality" and what makes someone unique should be celebrated.

In a world where the focus is our outer appearance, I feel it’s my duty as a beauty professional to let these young ladies know that there is more to self-love than the outside.

And so I spent a blessed evening with them all crowded around. As I shared with these lovely ladies, I reiterated my personal belief (and personal experience) that true beauty is still skin deep! Needless to say the girls and I had a blast!! We shared all. We laughed, we related and we listened to one another’s struggles with appearance.

I left that evening filled with positive energy, hope, a renewed commitment and a date to return for another lovely night with all my new friends.

I am so grateful for this experience. So readers, please take this small example of how we can all make a difference, and I hope you challenge yourself to go out into the world and help a fellow man or woman (no matter what your occupation).

As Gandhi once said, be the change you wish to see in the world.

A HAITIAN BEAUTY

2011-03-24T07:59:00.000-07:00

I Recently worked on a shoot and had the pleasure of working with our model who is a beautiful Haitian girl. Good job guys!!

Photography- Tina Wong
Model- Sophia Clerius
Makeup- Michelle Morse

PHOTOGRAPHER SAMWELL ORTIZ

2011-03-17T18:12:00.001-07:00

Among the many enrichment's I’ve enjoyed since my recent arrival to Miami have been my daily back-to-the-beach outings and the opportunity to become more involved with photo shoots and the unique artists behind them.

On a recent photo shoot for the talented Tina Wong, I was fortunate enough to meet the very talented photographer Samwell Oritz

From the first it was obvious the entire crew was in for a great ride as Samwell’s friendly creative input and generosity made it seem as if we’d all been friends and collaborators for years.

At one point Samwell caught our attention with, to many of us, was an exotic looking lighting set-up. His response to our questions was to offer to take our photos under his lights and give us each a personal example of the look he was going for.

Literally … minutes later I was presented with the photo you see here …

While I’ve never considered myself to be highly photogenic, I believe he has captured me in a way that allows me to see myself as others do … and I love it.

Here’s some more of Samwells’s work for your pleasure.

SPRING 2011

2011-03-11T19:02:00.000-08:00

Spring is here, and summer is fast approaching. With its promise of sun, surf and sand, gloriously warm weather suggests a long awaited freedom. With this in mind, it's up to you to decide if you'll be a slave to your hair and blow the life out of it, or embrace your hair’s ability to do something different.

Giving your hair an occasional break is highly recommended and will only do you good. Constantly blow-drying your hair straight will ultimately take it’s toll. You may desperately want to believe those very convincing ads claiming ultimate hair protection and displaying a beautiful girl throwing her hair around. Well, I hate to break it to you but heat hurts your hair. So unless they've created some impenetrable force field, I say give your hair a break! 

Get That Beachy Look! Here are all the tools and products you'll need to achieve a beach like texture without the pulling of a brush and excessive heat to get your hair straight.  1) Diffuser This is a girl’s best friend. If you've used one and found it difficult, don’t worry because I’m going to show you how to use one correctly.2) Product This will depend on the type and texture of your hair. 

For curly hair use a combination of bumble and bumble surf salt spray

and Hamadi Shea leave in cream The cream will keep your curls hydrated and the salt spray will help give it the texture of a broken curl with an edge rather than a curl with a bounce.

Rather than drying the traditional way by cupping the hair in the diffuser, I recommend having the dryer on low speed and hold it on the outside of the hair like if you are steaming the clothing with a hand held steamer. When most of the moisture is gone, you can then cup the hair in the diffuser lightly. As a general rule, the closer you hold the hair to the scalp, the more curl you will get.   If you have straight hair, apply Bumble and Bumble "Salt Spray" with a pea size amount of "Boost" by Orlando Pita before diffusing.

Turn your head to the side and lean your hair in the diffuser. The closer you hold it, the more lift you will get. Alternately, the further away you hold it, the less texture it creates. If you have really fine hair, hold the diffuser close to your head and with your free hand scrunch the hair (LOL I have not used the word scrunch in forever!).   After creating your texture you can braid your hair, wear it in a bun, wear a headband, or just let it flow! The idea is to embrace your texture during a time when "perfect hair" shouldn't be the first thing on your mind. Now the perfect tan is quite another thing! Go ahead, it's okay to go messy chic... it's Summer!

PLUS SIZE WOMAN

2011-03-07T20:55:00.000-08:00

BEAUTY IS ONLY SKIN DEEP

2011-03-01T15:55:00.000-08:00

I'm sure you all remember having said that more than once in support of a friend or family member feeling beauteously inadequate. Having been tossed aside as a cliche, we're now bombarded with images of unattainable physical standards along with the pressure to meet them. Beauty has gone from existing in the eye of the beholder, to a matter defined by a microscopic few that, ahem, do not meet the standards they've set for you and me.

True Beauty

Sad as it is, as I compare life today to life as it once was, boys and girls are subjected to these physical pressures at seemingly younger ages; women are beginning to look the same regardless of ethnicity; plus size beauties are succumbing to the pressure to lose weight in an effort for marketability and social acceptance. The stories of people "selling their souls", the essence that makes them unique, in an effort to satisfy the mountainous appetite of the industry are endless. That being said, fashion and beauty standards and trends change just as the water crashes on the shore and recedes, creating its own unending feeding cycle. What does the industry eat? You (and me!).

This week I want to stop and acknowledge beauty in and of itself, for exactly what it is. True and everlasting beauty really does come from within. I feel strongly that true beauty is being comfortable in your own skin, loving yourself from the inside out. What I mean by being comfortable in your own skin is that you fully understand and accept yourself, as you are, with none of the extras. Sure, everyone would first choose to focus on what is imperfect about themselves, however reaching a level of security in yourself requires that you know beyond a shadow of a doubt that you learn to love yourself.It's difficult to separate feelings of authentic self love from the love of feeling part of mass culture, but feeling beautiful in a peasant dress when it isn't "IN" because you love the way it makes you feel is enough. There is no need to compare yourself to the Kim's and Victoria's of the world.

I suppose I feel so strongly about this topic because, once upon a time, I also felt ugly and inadequate. After much soul searching, I realize now that this life is the gift of journey and as I embark on it, each day, I learn different ways to love myself from the inside out. Through the years, I've learned to keep this in mind, as difficult as it is in my industry, and want to impart that knowledge to you, my friends. As a hairstylist, all I can do is make your hair look good. A great hairstyle can only go so far, and sooner or later even that fades. What I'm trying to say is that every effort to be the best you that you can be is temporary, YOU will always be all that is left and I want you to love what is the only constant in your life... YOU.

As I move forward, I intend to challenge myself to write to you about beauty from many different perspectives. I will still, obviously, be sharing my thoughts, tips and tools to help you achieve and maintain healthy beautiful hair, but ultimately I want it to reflect the beauty within you.

No matter what the fact is, and will always be, BEAUTY IS STILL ONLY SKIN DEEP!

Just be yourself
Don't listen to the lies.
Let it all out.
Let out your cries.

The insults are there,
"You're ugly"
"You're fat"
Truth is you are you
And that is that.

You may feel down
about your looks.
You're not a model
or a picture in a book.

But everyone is beautiful
in their own special way.
Be sure to repeat this everyday.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY KEVIN ACOINE!

2011-02-14T04:40:00.000-08:00

Happy Birthday Kevin Acoine!

As we all celebrate Valentine's Day and the things we love…I want to remember a hero of mine. His is the late, Kevin Acoine, and Valentine’s Day also happens to be his birthday. Not only was he a force to be reckoned, he was talented in ways that will forever be remembered within the industry. Kevin took our industry by storm with his keen eye for making any woman look and feel beautiful inside out. Most Makeup artists and hairdressers can make a woman look beautiful on the outside, but very few can make a woman's inner beauty shine through like Kevin did. Kevin’s changed my outlook on beauty forever.

Six Degrees of Separation

Eighteen years ago, I received a book by Kevin, personally autographed to me as a gift by my Trinidadian hair hero Anthony Medina. His best friend is Celebrity Stylist, Freddie Lieba (another Trinidadian) who was a friend of Kevin Acoine.

Hair by Anthony Medina.

Anthony and Meiling.
Beyonce by Freddie Leiber.
Above Freddie and Catherine Malandrino.

Sixteen years later, I came to meet another friend of Kevin Acoin’s, Orlando Pita, a man who has inspired my journey forward and change my life.

Orlando working on Catherine Zeta Jones.

The Universe Works in Mysterious Ways

Who could imagine an autographed book by Kevin would send me on such a personal journey to then work with Orlando, who I will forever hold close to my heart. I am living proof that dreams do come true.

True love and inspiration always endure…may they find you.

Happy Valentines Day!

Antonio Gonzales

HAIR COLOR IN MIAMI

2011-02-07T20:44:00.000-08:00

Now that I live in Miami my focus is to achieve as natural a blond as possible. No, not for me, the blond will be for my clients. Be it the first time to color or a seasoned color client, the health of your hair should come first, then the desired color. If you want an all-natural glaze, a vibrant gloss or highlights, the end result should be hair that shines, does not fade quickly and enhances your strongest assets. At the top of my list is the importance of offering clients flexibility in my approach as a colorist.

A Subtle Approach

Colorshines (cellophanes) by Sebastian, one of my favorite old school brands, is always a must have glaze for the summer.

Honestly, there are few products on the market like it. This product gives you amazing shine, sparkling tone and is wonderfully safe. Whether you are 11 or 80 years old, have virgin hair or are a platinum blond; it comes in clear reds, browns and gold tones, has no ammonia or peroxide and it's a very quick service. It's simply applied to clean, towel dried hair, a quick sit under the dryer for 20 minutes then rinse.

Another advantage with Colorshines is it's translucency, giving your color the subtlest dimension and you can do it again after 10 shampoos without build up or a root line. Well, what are you waiting for?

Take It Up A Notch

This is where Loreal enters the picture. I'm specifically talking about two of their semi-permanent colors that I love! The first is Richesse

and the second is Dia Color.

Having worked with Wella for so many years (and I do still love it), lately I’ve been having fun switching it up a bit.

These two glosses keep color fresh, sexy and vibrant and are a "must try" for the summer. Great for virgin hair to add an over all sparkle, or to enhance brunette or blonde alike, there is no ammonia and little peroxide, but it's still a color commitment and does have some chemical.

A Real Commitment

Baliage is one of my favorite things to do. Not only is it great for first time clients who want a real burst of color, it's a great way to have hair color that compliments the beach style and culture expected here in South Florida. Knowing techniques like baliage really help me stay fashionably flexible with hair color. Now, with my new fabulous Femme Salon view of the beach, I'm inspired, seeing loads of potential blonds and blonds who’d greatly benefit from some strokes of the baliage brush.

Hair color is so much fun! Be adventurous but be smart and worry about the results last. It may seem a little counter intuitive, but maintaining the health and quality of your hair must be our first concern…then comes the fun!

Count me in!

Antonio Gonzales.

MY RECENT WORK.

2011-02-05T07:09:00.000-08:00

I recently did Chris Carrabba's hair when he was performing in New York city. It was so much fun! We worked backstage just before his performance and as soon as he we were done he went straight on stage. I'm always excited to work with him since he is a huge source of inspiration to me.

Now that I'm in Miami I will be seeing more of Chris bringing fresh ideas to South beach.

Antonio Gonzales.

MY NEW MEN"S BLOG.

2011-01-30T19:05:00.000-08:00

MY LATEST WORK

Hair Care : Man Up!

Comessemen.com

When I was a child growing up in Trinidad, all my mother could afford was a haircut with the local barber. This was not at all your traditional barber; he was always a bit liquored up and would cut my hair on a bucket in the back of his house [smile]. As I entered my teens, growing my hair meant freedom. It was an introduction to understanding my individuality and an originality of appearance (as simple as it may be).

Today, after having worked with all hair textures and lengths, I endeavor very hard to share my knowledge with my male clients helping them be themselves through their hair. I would like to take this opportunity to help other men understand their hair and feel comfortable going into any salon and knowing precisely what to ask for and how to ask for it.

I’ve had the privilege of working with an endless selection of men's hair products and testing those very products continuously for several companies. I pride myself in specializing in men's hair color with an open mind to the needs of my clientele using several painting techniques to achieve a hair color that's masculine, long lasting and natural.

Having been on the radio to discuss men's hair while also contributing endless articles to online beauty websites, I have decided to create a “go to” place for all men to learn about their hair and move forward in embracing their own originality.

MIAMI ANYONE?

2011-01-29T19:26:00.000-08:00

South Beach...Aqui Vengo

Before I share the details of a new and exciting chapter of my personal life with you, I want to thank some very special people in my professional life here in New York.

Working with legendary hairdresser Orlando Pita,

the famed and fabulous Joe Martino,

and the very inspirational George Casson, has been transcendent. I will forever be grateful to them for opening my eyes to a new vision in the world of hair, for furthering my training in details and techniques I didn't even know existed, until this experience.

A simple "Thank you" simply falls short when I think about how generous and loving they've been with their the time, patience and limitless skill. Assisting Orlando during two seasons of Mercedez Benz Fashion Week were easily the most challenging times in my career and I loved every minute of it!!

Orlando, you will always remain an amazing personal and professional inspiration and I look forward to following your continued powerful impact in our industry.

(deep breath)

My clients know how important it is for me to consistently work towards bettering my skill and broadening my scope in an industry that I love so much. It is this passion that I am following as I move to Miami Beach, Florida and dare to take on hair where humidity, heat and the sun might be a challenge for some...but for me, It will be a labor of love. I am much more at home in the tropics being from Trinidad & Tobago!

South Beach is where you will find me now, passionate about my clients and making new friends while always cherishing those I won't be able to see as often. I remain forever grateful and proud of my time as a member of team Orlo. Now you all have an excuse to visit to South Beach...come play with me!

Antonio Gonzales

SHOPPING FOR THE BEST IN BEAUTY SUPPLIES

2011-01-23T06:50:00.001-08:00

As beauty professionals, using effective products and having the ability to direct my clients where to purchase them is all-important. I believe that it's my job to share my knowledge and guide them away from unnecessary or overpriced items (not to mention overly aggressive salespeople). With that in mind, one thing makes this aspect of my job easier: geography. New York is obviously one of the best places on the planet to acquire top-level hair tools and products to help any salon professional or at-home novice feel and look beautiful. Some of these items encompass the latest, chicest brands, while some may represent the best of the old-school "old faithfuls" on today's market.

On my first trip to New York in 1989—to attend an international hair show at the Javits Center—I was exposed to a world of haircare, cutting-edge tools, and out-there, talented hairdressers the likes of which I'd never seen (and in some cases, haven't seen since!). It blew my mind to see so many stylists under one roof, learning and shopping all together. On that trip, following the show but before we left the city, we remembered one item we had neglected to pick up. My friend Anthony assured us, "Don't worry—I know exactly where to go: Ray Beauty Supply!"

Long before Sephora and Ricky's there was Ray—then and now a favorite beauty supply shop for many visiting hairdressers from around the world. I recently visited on of my beauty-supply runs, and took a moment to chat with Mike, a manager at the store.

ANTONIO GONZALEZ: Who initially the company, and how long have you actually been in business?

RAY BEAUTY SUPPLY: Hi! I appreciate that you're taking the time to honor my store! It is a special store indeed... it's owned by the Mastrangelo family. Perry, the father, purchased Ray Beauty from a family named Ray, and has been running it for 50 great years—and hopefully will for 50 more.

I love coming to your store and hearing a Trinidadian accent. It reminds me of home!

Yeah, we do have a Trinidadian working at our store. He's the repairman, cashier and all-around complainer, but we love him and he does a great job!

I find many other beauty supply stores so overpriced. How do you manage to keep your prices fair?

We try to give everyone a fair price while keeping the roof over our heads and paying our employees good wages. In today's world it gets harder and harder, especially with Internet sales, where someone sells from a garage with no overhead—and very little knowledge of the industry, as well. We really aim to keep our customers happy.

What do you offer customers that other, more "glitzy" beauty supplies don't?

Our helpful staff has great knowledge of an industry we all love. We explain things to both the novice and professional the same way, leaving everyone more informed. For example: People tend to buy tools by reviews they read. Now if it turns out they're not satisfied with that tool, then what happens? By working with a knowledgeable supplier, making a purchase becomes easier. We honestly care more about the person then the profit.

Approximately how many different brands do you carry?

We offer over 30 brands hair-care brands and 25 different brands of professional equipment. Plus, we also special-order products and equipment.

In a fast-changing economic climate, can we expect to have Ray in our lives for years to come?

We really hope so. With the state of the economy, though, it is getting harder. We once employed 12 workers; now we're at only five. But we keep the faith.

You are definitely one of the unsung heroes of Manhattan's beauty industry. I sincerely thank you for all these years of top-notch service.

Let me again thank you, and we look forward to seeing you again real soon!

ONE OF THE BEST PERSONAL TRAINERS NEW YORK HAS TO OFFER.

2011-01-22T08:45:00.000-08:00

Personal Training at its Peak!

Growing up in the tropics, I was always a very skinny kid. I thought that being thin was a curse. Through my teenage years it just seemed as though everyone else was gaining weight but me. While residing in Los Angeles in my late twenties, I started going to the gym despite the fear of being killed by a barbell. I was persistent, hoping to achieve results.

Upon relocating to New York City, I sought the assistance and expertise of personal trainer’s employed by some of Manhattan’s leading gyms. I had even explored the possibility of personal training at home. Instantly, I started seeing results and loved every minute of it regardless of how much I despised lifting weights (especially alone).

Over the years I’ve been to some of the least expensive gyms and some of the more luxurious. Some trainers were exceptional while others were just getting by (even at the fancy gyms in Chelsea). After seven different trainers, I reached a point where I was quite comfortable with my body and the way I felt; I figured my physique could not possibly get any better.

And then I met David Cole.

Someone recommended David to me and also suggested I tour Peak Gym. Being one to try anything new once, I decided to give it a shot. From the onset, I noticed something very different about David’s techniques aside from the fact he had nothing to prove. I’ve had trainers who proceed with routines as though I was preparing for a triathlon. I’d be all over the gym like a chicken without a head.

David was very focused on me and refrained from small talk with his colleagues and/or other clients (which I’d experienced first-hand at other gyms). It was as if I was the only person in the entire gym. He carefully assessed my body and explained that he is a “personal trainer” and that I would receive “personal training”. He mentioned that it would take time for him to familiarize himself with my capabilities.

With each exercise, he blew my mind away with his knowledge, consistency and ability to teach and most importantly, listen. I started seeing the change in my body; muscles I had never seen before started to appear from head to toe. Literally. David had somehow managed to push my body while remaining cognizant of how far he could go.

Here’s more on David Cole.

A : When people are working out alone, what is the biggest mistake they make?
D : They don’t plan. Start with the basics; three sets of three exercises will keep you from doing your favorite body part to death, which creates asymmetries and could injure you.

A : What is the first thing someone should do when looking for the right trainer?
D : If you have the opportunity to do so, watch them work. Make sure their attention is on their client(s) and not their cell phone.

A : Why did you choose Peak Gym (which I love)?
D : I was actually invited. However, I’ve stayed because the management takes such pride in the establishment. It’s more than just a gym.

A : I can’t seem to count how many different muscles I’ve discovered on my body since training with you. You mentioned having researched various body types and several techniques (i.e. Bruce Lee, Arnold Schwarzenegger). Tell me more.
D : I’ve learned a lot about how what works for one individual doesn’t necessarily work for another. A lot of trainers haven’t caught on and just have their clients do what they’ve done. This is not always productive. I do like to show people everything I can. However, I try to teach people how to learn what works for them. This includes the difference between the burn, the pump, fatigue and failure.

A : You have a knack for “serious boundaries”. Was that part of your school training?
D : It has to do with reading people. I’m an open book, but I would never discuss something that would distract a client or bring negative energy. The other day I told you about a fight I had with my wife. I knew you would laugh, but I wouldn’t tell the same story to many of my female clients because their initial reaction would have been “oh no!” We don’t want that in the gym.

A : I have always seemed to get my way with trainers (not doing legs). You were different.
D : When a client doesn’t want to do legs, it’s often an easy out for trainers. There’s a lot to watch and a lot of responsibility when you load someone with the weight required for a great leg workout. If your trainer is okay with you not doing legs, then ultimately he is not doing his job.

A : How many times a week do you workout?
D : I’ll workout at least five times a week, even if it’s for ten minutes. It’s not quantity, it’s quality!

A : How should you divorce your trainer?
D : With notice! Remember, you’re somebody’s paycheck. All the private trainers I know get paid in advance. Whether you pay $50.00 for training or $150.00, that could be someone’s rent. That being said, simply say “I can’t justify the expense”. This is something everyone can relate to. We all know the 50-inch TV is better than the 42-inch TV, but is it worth the price? I think this is both polite and it doesn’t diminish the value of the service.

I can safely recommend David Cole to anyone and know that they will get their money’s worth.

Thank you David for restoring my faith in your profession.

Davids contact.
1-646-334-5854

I HAD SO MUCH FUN DOING ALL THE HAIR FOR THIS VIDEO.

2011-01-19T11:33:00.000-08:00

HAIR BY ANTONIO

2011-01-19T11:20:00.000-08:00

LOVE YOUR HAIR BABY!!!

2011-01-17T06:02:00.000-08:00

Growing up in Trinidad and Tobago I was surrounded by so much amazing music. From Calypso Rose

and Denyse Plummer

to East Indian music, I absolutely loved it all. Apart from the local rhythms, international stars like Diana Ross,

Shirley Bassey

and the Three Degrees were

all equally inspirational to me. Although their musical flavors were distinctly different, these divas had one thing in common. Their hair! Be it 100% theirs or not, as they performed you could not help but love their hair!

Genetically gifted with direct African decent or beautifully bi-racial, these talented artists proudly wore their hair voluminous, sexy and soft. As they sang, their hair gave love as well. From medium length hair, full hair to the waist or a fierce Afro, these looks signified sexiness and completed every performance.

Sadly, today I see far too many women in New York wearing their hair chemically over processed, or tucked under slicked wigs and unfortunate hairpieces. Such camouflage is the opposite of what strong black women represent, and frankly, most of it is painfully visually unappealing. It removes all originality when women try to conform to what they think society wants them to look like.

The truth is, women of African decent possess a beauty that many are willing to go under the knife for. Their luscious lips and strong cheekbones, together with their personalities, allow them to uniquely shine.

As a man who grew up in the Caribbean in a very Afro-centric village, I urge women today to reconsider these flat wigs and over processed hair. Give your scalp a break, grow out your hair and let's celebrate that beautiful texture. Let’s have fun and braid it or blow it occasionally. Celebrate the legacy of your rich heritage and be part of the movement to bring back the Afro!

Channel your inner Donna Summer baby!!

If your scalp and hair are healthy and you want to add some spice to a night on the town, add some hair that's big, soft and sexy! Walk down the street with a smile and attitude because your hips and your hair are moving to their own special beat.

Can a strong black woman really feel sexy while wearing a slicked wig or severely broken hair? I honestly believe wigs hide a black women’s true beauty. I would prefer to see healthy hair any day, but that's just my opinion.

Love to the Afro!

Antonio Gonzales

OWN YOUR HAIRCUT

2011-01-11T06:09:00.000-08:00

Very early on, before becoming a hairstylist, I would usually enter a salon and innocently request a hairstyle from a magazine or choose a celebrity’s style to cut and paste onto myself. Back then I hardly gave any thought at all to whether or not the cut was 'right' for me. By that I mean, would the cut work with the shape of my face, the texture of my hair and all the other variables that should have gone into creating a style for me as an individual.

Ironically enough, it's those very concerns that go into creating the iconic styles I and virtually everyone else, at one time or another, have sought to adopt for ourselves. Rest assured a great deal of planning, decision making and care has gone into every style that has caught our eye on a cover, runway, screen or red carpet. The results are well worth the effort.

That's why today, after 20 years of refining my craft, I do everything in my power to gently guide my clients to seek their own personal identity and hairstyle as opposed to wearing someone else's’, regardless of how famous or currently fashionable that someone might be. After all, it's my job to help them celebrate their personal beauty by creating a great haircut just for them.

Here then is a list of the variables I consider for everyone in my chair before beginning to create that unique haircut for them;

1- What is the general shape of the face? Is it oval, round or square?

2- Is the forehead narrow or wide and is the hairline high? Keep in mind the shape of the forehead determines how much fringe you can wear successfully.

3- The ears are next. If they protrude and your hair is fine you may require a little lift as opposed to a straight and slick look. Remember, we're creating something for you and your ears are your ears so we must embrace what's given us. But with a little help from layering we can soften the ear area.

MY CUT

4- Now for the cheekbones. Are they pronounced? If not, opening up layers around the face will be helpful, while heaviness in this area will work against you.

5- On to the nose. If it is somewhat sharp care must be taken to create a haircut that does not make it look even sharper in profile.

6- The chin. In the case of a bob, for instance, the length should be guided by the shape of the chin and will make all the difference in the world.

MY CUT

7- Saving the best for last, we finally consider the neck and shoulders, so vital to any haircut. Nothing quite sets off the right haircut like a long sexy neck so we never should hide that kind of neck with too much hair. With a shorter neck, opening up the neck and shoulder area with layers will create the sexiness we seek.

I don't believe in encouraging my clients to try for someone else's look, not when they can look so much better as themselves.

I wish you beautiful hair.

AFG

My recent work.

2011-01-09T14:14:00.000-08:00

Recently I got together with a very creative group of friends to make this video. We decided a freshly shaved head for the model would be best, Hope you like it!

Director- Liman Cheng
Creative Direction- Reginald Pointujour
Model- Adrian Zuniga
Hair- Antonio Gonzales
Makeup- Haruka Hirooka
Music Editor- Michael Wang

GABRIEL J SHULDINER'S JEWELRY

2011-01-03T06:46:00.000-08:00

When it came to shopping, I was an avid "emotional shopper," always hoping the buzz of acquisition would make me feel better. It always did—for a second—but never much longer. Little did I know that the ripe age of 39, I would discover that happiness is an inside job. Why the hell didn't I get this memo before?

Now a shopping experience means that I'm buying an item (or service) after careful consideration, usually something that I've found to be original with quality and creativity. After not buying jewelry for many years, I began a careful, conscientious search for a simple piece that can almost disappear around my neck... a piece devoid of bling but having an artistic quality.

After seeing Gabriel J Shuldiner's last collection I became very excited, because it was exactly along the lines of what i wanted and I found it to be quite affordable. As I looked through the rest of his collection, I realized I was buying a piece of jewelry that was a small part of an incredibly creative collection. Here are more pieces from my very talented friend Gabriel.

BEACH HAIR

2011-01-01T08:10:00.000-08:00

A quick trip home to see my niece and nephew in beautiful Tobago coincided with a huge snowstorm back in New York, resulting in my being stuck for days in the Caribbean (there are worse places to be stranded, right?).
I had given the kids new haircuts and love looking back over these photos of them smiling, happy with their new looks. The one thing that's expected of me during my visit (apart from devouring every local fruit I can get my hands on) is to educate the kids on looking after their hair, since they are on the beach daily and therefore especially prone to sun and salt-water damage. Needless to say, as I hadn’t been to Tobago for almost a full year, I had my job cut out for me.

One factor relevant to my niece and nephew’s hair care is their ethnic background. Their mother and I are of Portuguese, Venezuelan and African descent, while their dad is Swiss. My nephew’s hair was white as a baby, and now at 13 years old it’s medium-brown with blond highlights (from daily surfing in the sun, no doubt). Now, the front of his hair is straight, gradually curling toward the back of his head. He asked that I keep the length of his hair, but said he dislikes the weight he feels at the back of his head. His hair was very uneven from a previous cut—very long at the back and short over the ears and long again at the front. He loves when I cut his dry hair with the razor (he's fascinated by this!), so I didn’t have much of a choice in terms of tools.

Starting at the back of his head, I razored with a scooping effect, starting close to the scalp and moving through to the ends. With this technique I avoid removing unnecessary bulk, while also helping the hair to grow in with increased movement while remaining light in density. As I moved forward I maneuvered the front of the blade closer to the ends (there not being much weight in this area). In other words, I focused primarily on the shape as I moved to the front of his hair. Any fringe responds better to a dry cut than a wet one, so for him, the former is always an advantage anyhow. I also find I have more control when cutting the fringe dry. When it's wet, so much can go wrong, resulting in an undesirable, lifeless fringe. I then just styled it with a little Moroccan oil and he was off to the waves.

My niece—who has the most beautiful long, dark tresses—hadn’t had a cut since my last visit: Now that's commitment! As you can imagine, her ends were quite dry and the layers were really grown out, leaving her look a little drab and faded out. I had her shampoo, towel-dry, and comb some Moroccan oil through from roots to ends. After assessing the situation, I decided to cut her hair wet with scissors, as this makes it easy to see the weaker, wet ends lying limp. As I continued my cut, the layers around her face began to dry a bit… perfect conditions for me to then apply the razor. I had barely finished the cut and she was running off with her friends.

I recommended that she always add a little Moroccan oil to her ends before entering the ocean, as it helps condition the hair while she’s in the water, protecting it for a long wait until my next trip home! With salt-water contact, the oil helps so much to avoid tangling and maintaining a gorgeous shine, shine, shine!

Antonio Gonzales

LAYERING YOUR HAIR

2010-12-30T07:23:00.000-08:00

Having long hair that’s layered correctly is honestly one of the best feelings in the world. Great layering can leave you feeling so sexy—hair that flows with incredible movement. Done correctly, the cut should look even better three to five weeks after your salon visit. For those unfortunate enough not to have had good experience with long layers, it can be frustrating to articulate exactly what you want in a style and cut.

As hairstylists, we have the advantage of knowing the verbiage to adequately describe the layering process, but even then it takes more than adjectives and verbs to achieve a successful layering effect.

The interesting thing is that if you ask two stylists to do long layers on the same person, you might be surprised at the different approaches they take and the outcomes that result. In other words, consider it a blessing to find a hairstylist who can achieve the feat with panache, because someone else might very well leave your hair looking as if you made love to a weed whacker!

When having your hair layered, it is crucially important to know two things: what to ask for and how to recognize when your hairstylist is off to a “hairy start.”

I cut my models hair dry with a razor rather than wet. The reason was because of her hair texture, cutting it wet would have been to aggressive and would have removed too much bulk.
MY HAIRCUT

Here are a couple of tips to keep in mind when having your hair layered. Remember that no one knows your hair better than you do, so be mindful of your instincts while recognizing that the hairstylist has the upper hand. Together, great layers are totally possible.

1) During the consultation, share the aspects of your hair that have been most challenging for you in the past and why. This allows the hairstylist to be conscious of areas that he or she should pay particular attention to in their approach.

2) Share whether you air- or blow-dry your hair. This is valuable information and can affect the initial approach in any cut and style.

3) Ask the stylist if he or she will be cutting your hair dry or wet. This too can greatly influence how it will be cut.

4) Depending on your hair’s thickness and texture, have the stylist determine if a scissor or razor should be used.

Here are signs to be aware of. Some relate to mistakes I’ve made in the past, which I’ve learned from as I’ve grown professionally.

1) Cutting either wet or dry on hair that is coarse or fine, the stylist should concentrate on thin sections at a time, for an even, precise flow.

2) If your hairstylist cuts your hair and then hands you to an assistant to blow-dry and then return to dry-cut, beware. I know how I cut each section of hair, so I’m the one who can optimally blow-dry each section. A great assistant may know how to do a beautiful blow-dry generally, but he or she wasn’t the one cutting. This is a recipe for disaster.

3) If you want your hair cut with a certain tool, your hairstylist should be capable of doing the initial cut with a scissor or razor. They should also be able to provide either a wet or dry cut, depending on your personal preference.

I believe layering is an expression of you—the style should reflect your personality! Don't leave the salon feeling like you have someone else’s cut and style. Ask all the necessary questions to ensure that you get exactly what you desire.

Antonio Gonzales

A REAL COLOR MAKEOVER

2010-12-10T08:36:00.000-08:00

Someone recently reached out to me regarding a hair mishap. Forgoing the idea of reenacting a cheesy before-and-after makeover—where the person looks drab and bland without makeup and then they’re given better lighting and great makeup for the “after” shot—I decided to keep it real and take a simple picture of her with my iPhone right before we started and again as soon as we were done.

She originally asked to go lighter than her natural color (an ashy medium-brown), but not too light. Her hope was that, though her hair would be lighter, she’d have the option of allowing her to roots to grow in without too much upkeep. What she ended up with was something she was not prepared for (see images below). What you can’t see too clearly in the “before” shot are the very violet tones running through her hair, with an unfortunate band of orange at the roots. Needless to say, her hair texture was not much better.

Together we decided recolor it a rich, warm brown that added some much-needed darkness to the root area. Our biggest concerns were it shading red, or going the other direction with muddy ends. I decided to work with Diacolor from L’Oréal, which is a demi-permanent color gloss. This acted as my filler, adding back in the warm tones that were absent from her now-bleached-out hair. My main reason for using Diacolor rather than another product was that it provides great color and tone control. Using red/gold to add that much-needed warmth back in was the first step. I left the filler on for 15 minutes, then rinsed: The effect the Diacolor had seemed promising. I proceeded to the next step—a light shampoo and a towel-dry. Then we dried the roots further with cool air using the dryer. I then gave her the chosen color: a medium brown with 15-volume by L’Oréal Majirel, leaving it on adequately to add depth to her re-growth (which, as I mentioned previously, was a ashy medium-brown). Since there was no gray coverage needed, the 20-volume peroxide I often use was not necessary.

After a quick post-color shampoo, it was apparent that the warmth the Diacolor added was exactly what we were going for. I proceeded to the next step, which was to give her another light shampoo and towel-dry, and again apply some cool air from the dryer. I then mixed another Diacolor gloss for her final color application, leaving it on the roots through to the ends. We then rinsed and dried a front section to see the final result. The outcome? Her hair looked beautiful again! Finally I gave her a deep treatment and—violà!—a soft brunette with a smile. : )

SKORPIO VODKA

2010-12-01T13:57:00.000-08:00

My recent styling and cut on a pilot for Skorppio Vodka.

2010-11-16T06:47:00.000-08:00

A reNew Lease on Hair

Like most New Yorkers, I use the subway and commute to work in the city. On a daily basis, I see women adding finishing touches to their makeup while the train is in motion. I know my NYC ladies would prefer to finish their makeup at home, but as New Yorkers we all know that time is of the essence. Observing these divas I’m witness to a swift stroke of Mascara, a soft puff of blush and the smacking of some sparkly lip gloss.

I think to myself – “that’s fine, but what about the hair”. Everyday I'm surrounded by dead ends, “fly aways” and static staring at me crying for help. I know time is an issue for my busy ladies but there’s no excuse. There are plenty of ways to condition your hair without expending too much time wetting it and having to wash off a conditioner in the morning. Actually, there is only one product that can do this quickly and effectively – Renew by Orlando Pita.

A few years ago, this product took the world by storm and won numerous awards for its groundbreaking ability to condition hair in a non-conventional way. It features the exceptional, penetrative ingredient Quaternium, known in the skincare world for its long-lasting conditioning. Renew is a dry conditioner for all hair types that delivers quick conditioning agents without wetting your hair. You can condition your hair with Renew anywhere – on the train, in a cab or even at Starbucks!

All you have to do is take the cap off and spray. That's it! It’s easy to use and because it’s dry no one has to deal with a "wet" on-the-go conditioning juice like back in the eighties. Did someone say curl activator?!?! Here are just some of the benefits Renew has to offer.

For women with virgin hair (no chemicals) looking for a light conditioner for their ends, I highly recommend Renew to add shine and vitality. Renew also works well on hair that’s been slept on taking away any static or “fly aways”. And for women that use dry powders which can leave their hair with a matte finish, I recommend a little Renew for shine without having to use heavy silicones that make hair oily. Ladies with fine hair, this is the answer to all of your problems. Renew will add shine and “oomph”!

If there is one product that I think every woman must have this Winter, it’s Renew.

Thanks Orlando!

MY WORK.

2010-11-10T07:09:00.000-08:00

HAIR BY TEDDY CHARLES

2010-11-08T15:35:00.000-08:00

Recently I ran into a friend of the salon Teddy Charles and just had to have a" Kodak moment".

Teddy was not only trained by my boss Orlando Pita, he was recently in charge of making Lindsay Lohan look timeless and sexy for her recent cover on Vanity Fair magazine.
Teddy is an inspiration to me and I look forward to seeing more of his work on magazine covers to come.

FIVE BEST HAIR MASKS

2010-11-03T12:37:00.000-07:00

With so many hair products on the market, it can be overwhelming to ascertain what works and what doesn't. During the past 20 years of my experience using different hair products I've become a virtual connoisseur of gels, shampoos, conditioners, etc. Today I want to share with you my experience with hair masks in particular. In the past, hair masks were oil-based and potentially damaging; when used too often they stifled the scalp and made the hair limp, leaving it difficult to style. Nowadays, water-based masks are lighter, with added nutrients that are safe for the scalp, leaving your hair in mint condition. Here are a list of the best hair masks at various price points. All should help considerably in restoring you mane to its rightful, virginal state... well, almost.

Love conditioner by Davines

When I lived in LA some 12 years ago, I used and loved the Davines color line, the entirety of which has since improved, with a focus on making hair feel loved. Love by Davines is the first mask I want to write about. The packaging is sleek and easy to hold in the shower. In other words, it's not a weirdly shaped chunky tub that slips from the hand easily, potentially causing you to waste some of this precious product!. Its effect on color-treated hair is amazing, because of its superb conditioning qualities. It also works great on thick, kinky hair that requires a treatment with strong conditioning agents. Although it's a rich mask, it rinses easily, leaving the scalp free of product buildup and your hair smelling great for days (literally)!

Age Recharge by Kérastase

Well my darlings, if you want a product that you will be hooked on for life, this is it. It's my "go to" product for blonds... it helps enormously with detangling and preventing further breakage, with extremely consistent results. If you have very dry hair I recommend using it as a weekly treatment as a regular conditioner. Remember, a little product goes a long way. Out of the vast amount of masks that Kérastase offers, I would say that this is the best and only one I fully

Moroccan Oil hair mask

This mask took the country by storm with it's promise to condition frizzy hair and leave the driest hair full of moisture. I am here to say it delivered as promised. Unlike the MoroccanOil itself, the hair mask is not too heavy, and is buttery in consistency. After use it leaves the hair in better shape to withstand hot tools and the sun, and it's easily one of the best-smelling masks on the market. I look for any excuse to use this product; I even use it as a styling cream on the ends of curly hair.

Biolage Intensive Therapy mask

This is a product that I'd suggest to women across the US, since it's so easy to find. It's an intensive treatment for stressed hair that can be also used as a daily conditioner. Plus, it's affordable—which in this economy is a blessing. However, I would recommend a little heat for this treatment to work as well as with the previous masks. Towel-dry your hair and place a plastic disposable shower cap on your head. Follow by heating your hair through the cap with a blow dryer.

Tip:
Keep in mind that hair masks in general should not be left on the scalp overnight unless directed. The reason for this is its potential to irritate the scalp when left for long periods. Before using any mask I recommend you shampoo and towel dry your hair, removing about 50 percent of the water prior to usage. Before applying the mask your hair should feel damp to the touch—not dripping wet and not too dry.

Also, take your favorite mask with you on vacation, and use it before entering the ocean or pool. Take it to the gym and use it in the steam room for an even deeper treatment. Basically, you should never leave home without a small jar of mask to help save your hair from the harsh elements that are determined to harm it!.

BONUS TREATMENT

Homemade treatments

Who does not love the best of all worlds. This is not only affordable, you can use all organic fruit and oil insuring you are getting the best Making your own hair treatment. First whisk one egg white, half an ounce of lemon juice and half an ounce olive oil in a bowl. Then crush five mint leaves and an Avocado. Combine all ingredients and whisk for five minutes. I recommend shampooing with Green Tea Clarifying Shampoo by Aubrey Organics. Start by applying your treatment to clean partially towel dried hair, or as an intense treatment you can use the treatment on clean dry hair. Leave in your hair for five minutes and then rinse well. If you have stressed thirsty hair leave in for ten minutes and then rinse well. This treatment is so rich you will need to shampoo afterwards, trust me. When you are done, you would be amazed at how your hair will feel and the softness and shine will last for days!!

FOR VIRGIN HAIR:

Ripe organic avocado: Famous for its moisturizing properties

Virgin organic olive oil: Used all over the world in many home hair-care recipes for soothing the cuticle

Organic egg: A fantastic source of protein

Fresh mint: Great for preventing static on conditioned hair

Organic fresh lemon: A natural hair-brightener **this option should not be used on color-treated hair**

HOOKED ON AMMONIA AND PEROXIDE?

2010-10-29T09:05:00.000-07:00

GRAY MATTER – IT’S A NO BRAINER

ONCE UPON A TIME …

Picture it. 1989. Trinidad. It was a hot day in the tropics and my first day working in a salon with one of my first instructors, Anthony Medina. It was a busy day – color appointment after color appointment. Because Trinidad is so multicultural, every hair texture imaginable was waiting to be processed – Afro Caribbean (a term I don’t particularly care for), Asian, Caucasian, East Indian and a hodgepodge of others. Even some chemically relaxed hair was thrown into the mix. Meanwhile, these women had two things in common. Apart from being born in sweet Trinidad, they were all aware of the chemicals in hair color and weren’t overly concerned about a few gray strands. They were agreeable to having a semi-permanent hair color that did not give gray coverage yet accentuated their own hair adding shine and tone, possibly staining a few grays. Sure it would only last a good two to four weeks (8-12 shampoos), but shiny hair was more important.

The other ladies with a serious case of gray roots were there for a permanent solution. They needed full coverage and truly did not have a healthier alternative (and still don’t for that matter).

21 YEARS LATER …

Today, women of all ages with a few gray hairs no longer embrace the healthier choice; the thought of a few gray strands has become … well … taboo. Even if they are not using permanent hair color, they’re opting for demi-permanent color (glosses) which have peroxide and possible traces of ammonia (depending on the brand). This brings me to the heart of the “gray” matter. At what point did the dependency on stronger chemicals in hair color with more coverage outweigh a healthier solution (no ammonia or peroxide)?

At what point did women shy away from a more natural look (accepting the early stages of graying)?

SO WHAT ABOUT GLOSSES?

I believe, along with leading colorists in the industry, that a “gloss” is merely a demi-permanent color application with little peroxide and little to no ammonia. Yes. These are a healthier alternative to permanent hair color, but they still have peroxide. Did you get that? They have peroxide! So why do hairstylists insist on using them daily as a “healthy approach” to coloring hair?

You’ve heard it before, right? “Let’s just throw a quick gloss on your hair at the sink for shine”. That translates to “let’s just use a product that adds color and gives some shine using peroxide which will aggravate your cuticle causing some dryness (when used too often)”. A good rule of thumb – “GLOSS” is just the word “LOSS” with a ‘G’ in front of it. Cut your losses short!

It’s a fact that when we do highlights with bleach, we’re aiming for a color we have in mind – be it a muted wheat beige blond or a sparkling golden blond. Glosses can assist in tweaking traces of unwanted tones, but they are also used to correct problems that could have been avoided altogether. Examples of these are as follows:

Not lightening hair enough …

Scenario 1

If the desired color is a beautiful light beige and the bleach is not left on long enough, the result is hair that is too gold. At this point, glosses with stronger peroxide added are used to help rectify the problem by lifting the unwanted tones on already dry lightened hair and depositing beige tones instead. It doesn’t sound like a big deal at first, but what happens two to three weeks later?

The unwanted tones start peering through and eventually require more highlights which results in dry hair.

In this case, the possible solution could have been a high lift tint with the necessary tones to give you your desired color. High lift tints are permanent hair colors used with 40 volume peroxide that possess the ability to lift your natural hair color (if it’s not too dark) giving you the desired tone all-in-one. This takes longer and requires some serious color knowledge, but it’s not as light and bright as bleach.

If bleach is needed, then it could be left on while being watched closely as it lifts. Keep in mind that bleach will lift once it’s moist so patience is needed.

Scenario 2

If the desired color is a pretty light golden blond and the bleach is left on far too long or with too much heat, the result is hair that is too white with no gold tones which were needed to yield the expected outcome. What now happens is that a gloss is used in hopes of replacing all of the gold tones that were removed. A gloss is left on longer than necessary (on the already lightened hair) causing further dryness.

In this case, a high lift tint could have been used as well (provided the natural hair color is not too dark). Also, one could substitute the bleach with a weaker volume peroxide and no heat on the highlights.

So why this dependency you may ask? Well … I’ve seen it over and over again in magazines, online and in salons. Glosses are a big part of the problem when used too often or incorrectly.

WHO’S TO BLAME?

As a hairstylist I feel responsible for this dependence on chemicals and I propose to stop this lunacy one article at a time! Don’t get me wrong. I do love permanent and semi-permanent hair color and believe that we need it. However, I will modify the outlook of my blog by adding entries that welcome natural hair color, informing both men and women of the healthier options available.

IS THERE A SOLUTION?

Let us agree that a few gray strands do not classify someone as “old”. Your hair should not define you in any way. It is nothing more than an accessory. If you want more from your hair, use hair products that promote healthy hair, blow-dry less and color only if you must. Say no to chemical pushing dealers! The second solution is glazes, glazes, glazes.

A glaze is a semi-permanent hair color with no peroxide and no ammonia that deposits pigment and shine. I personally like Cellophane's by Sebastian. It’s applied to towel dried hair, covered with a plastic cap and placed under the dryer. The heat is what causes this color to stain the hair. It does not cover gray, but enhances your natural hair color staining grays just a bit. To somehow convey what a glaze is, I would suggest one think of the glaze on a cake – shiny, translucent and temporary. A gloss, however, is more like the gloss coating on a car – more permanent with shine.

I look forward to writing more about this topic and getting your feedback on these issues.

ALL ABOUT GRAY HAIR

2010-10-08T03:04:00.000-07:00

Grays, frays, trays…I know, I know…there are more important things in life than stubborn grays. But for those of us that do want to rid ourselves of those “natural highlights”, here are seven ways to get the coverage your want.

1. Ask your hairstylist to use Gray Magic in your color formula. This is a product that we used in beauty school many moons ago and it’s still on the market. It helps foster better coverage. A few drops could change everything!

2) Some hair color companies make a color line specifically for hard to cover grays. It’s generally the number followed by a double N (NN). The double N signifies the ability to penetrate stubborn grays. This really works!

3) Clean hair is always a good thing.If you were going to paint a wall and wanted it to last, what is the first thing you would do? Clean the wall of any old paint and debris so that you can allow for a proper application, right? Well the same is true for hair color.

4) If your desired color is one with more Golden tones or Red tones, always be sure that half of your formula is from the N series. In order to get coverage, half of your formula being is critical. Then add any desired tones you may want. If you’re 100% gray, I tend to add a little more N than usual.

5) Leaving the color on long enough really helps. Permanent color can sit on the hair for up to 45 minutes (or even longer). If you are not getting coverage in 30 minutes, try 45.

6) Ask your hairstylist what shampoos they are using at the bowl after coloring your hair. Post Color shampoos are designed to safely remove unwanted residue from your color after it is fully processed. Many product companies use Post Color Shampoo like ALFAPARF and L’Oreal. Do not use regular color safe shampoos. The aforementioned are better used 2 days after getting your color done.

7) Mix different levels of color. If your desired color is a level 7 (medium blond) and it’s just not covering the gray hair enough, add a squirt of level 6 to the formula. Actually, you can always squirt an inch of one color level darker to all of your formulas in order to ensure better coverage.

If you have any of your own suggestions, please feel free to share.

Here’s to hoping you’re covered!

FASHION IN FORT GREENE

2010-10-03T13:22:00.000-07:00

Pedigree Sneaker Gallery

45 Willoughby Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11205
at Adelphi St.
work718-858-8755

On a recent stroll through Fort Greene, Brooklyn (my new neighborhood), I came across a shop that totally caught my eye: Pedigree, a footwear fantasia with a selection I found utterly mouthwatering! Walking by, I was pulled in by my love for a pair of kicks that are modern, comfortable, and plain-old hot, and Pedigree's got 'em in spades.

I introduced myself to the owner, and we began chatting about the fashion/beauty industry and our mutual love for it.

One thing my new friends and I have in common (apart from a passion for fashion) is a commitment to making an impact in our industry from a humble place. We agree that tooting your own horn can only get you so far. What matters is walking the walk—not just talking the talk.
ANTONIO GONZALES: I adore Adidas Y-3 for its style and comfort, and you easily have the widest collection of styles I’ve seen. Is Y-3 an important line for Pedigree?
ASIO HIGHSMITH: Y-3 is an instrumental and influential brand for Pedigree Sneaker Gallery. It really sets the tone for our vision. The Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas collaboration has set a new lifestyle standard that is consistent and fresh. We can dig it!

AG: What led you to open a store like Pedigree in this particular Brooklyn neighborhood?
AH: The inspiration for Pedigree came from our travels and experiences, and the lack of access to cool stuff that you usually can only find in Manhattan or just somewhere else. We wanted to create more than just a “sneaker store,” and we believe strongly that we can do it right here… in Brooklyn!

AG: What do you look for in terms of style when choosing women’s footwear for Pedigree?
AH: The most important elements here are form and what we like to call “FUNKtion.”
AG: Is diversity elemental to Pedigree’s mission statement as a retail location and a brand in itself?
AH: I like to think of it as “thoughtful diversity,” and yes, it is definitely one of the elements we cherish most. It just feels like the communities here in Brooklyn are so much more in tune with their cultural differences than just about anywhere else. We use that harmony as our reference and foundation when we go to showrooms or collaborate with designers.
AG: What are the latest footwear trends that are reflected in Pedigree’s inventory currently?
AH: The Y-3 Boxing shoe and mold has made a significant impact on fashion recently. If you pay attention to today’s styles people prefer a more fitted, slimmer look from top to bottom. Alexander McQueen’s final collection is up in here, too.
AG: Are there any trends that you feel are on the verge of becoming really big in the near future?
AH: That is, are there any style predictions you'd like to make?
Pant-sagging—everybody is doing it!
AG: The music I heard in the store is great—what’s your goal with the selection you play?
AH: Since we have a DJ booth in the store, you never know who might be spinning, so we’re pretty organic with the music flow.
AG: Have there been any celebrity sightings in the store that you can share with our readers?
AH: As far as celebrity sightings, we’ve had quite a few. But if they’re not talking, we ain’t talkin’!
It's been nearly one year since I began working at a new salon and eight months since I relocated to Fort Greene, Brooklyn, and I'm happy to report that both moves have had a profoundly positive effect on my life. As I get to know Brooklyn I feel more and more at home, and as I keep an eye out for style in a 'hood I find very fashion-forward, I'm coming across shops that I love and proprietors and designers whom I'm really enjoying getting to know.

Antonio Gonzales

GREAT HAIR AT FASHION WEEK WITH MICHAEL KORS FASHION

2010-09-17T17:01:00.000-07:00

Here is Orlando Pita doing a demo for the look to created. This was a fun show as usual and I loved the clothes.

WORKING WITH ORLANDO PITA TODAY AT FASHION WEEK FOR CAROLINA HERRERA

2010-09-13T16:51:00.000-07:00

Today at Carolina Herrera Orlando created his magic and I was so happy to be part of it!

DIANE VON FURSTENBERG MERCRDES BENZ FASHION WEEK

2010-09-13T15:03:00.000-07:00

Behind the scenes at DVF working on Supermodel Juana Burga

Working my magic!!

WORKING AT DEREK LAM MERCEDES BENZ FASHION WEEK

2010-09-13T08:43:00.000-07:00

Here are the images of me yesterday backstage at Derek Lam's Fashion Week show.

With supermodel Abby Lee Kershaw

Another supermodel Ginta Lapina

FOLLOWING THE TRENDS IN NYC

2010-08-31T07:37:00.000-07:00

We have always known that fashion is an art form that has no barriers, and now we see that hair is following suit. Luckily for me, every single day I'm reminded that I live in the most fashion-forward city in the world. As I make my way to work from Brooklyn, I'm constantly inspired by the individual expressions of creativity I encounter—and no more so than in the ingenious, diverse hair styles all around me. Now more than ever, I see people both young and old re-creating popular hair trends from the '80s and '90s, but often adding great twists and fresh ideas to classic styles that have had a real impact on popular culture over the years—either positive or negative, depending on one's perspective.

One thing I've noticed is experimentation with hair color and extensions in fascinating ways. Whether a simple blond streak or a vivid and brightly colored extension, people on the street (and especially teenagers, notorious for always being on the forefront of cultural evolution), are making statements indicating that they're very much in touch with what's happening in the world of hair, the trends of today and yesterday that are lasting and significant.

LOOKS FROM TRENDSETTER ORLANDO PITA, 2010

Christian Dior

Derek Lam's Spring 2010 Runway Show

A GIRL FOLLOWING THE TRENDS
Here are two photos I took on impulse in my Brooklyn neighborhood near the subway, of a young lady who really caught my attention in unexpected ways—first with her outfit, but especially with her hair style. I loved the way she interpreted a popular current style by adding a unique twist and flavor with form and color. She was happy to tell me that she and her sister had created the look together.

OLD SCHOOL

NEW SCHOOL

STEVE MEISEL. KRISTEN McMENAMY & ORLANDO PITA WORKING THEIR MAGIC!!

2010-08-11T15:16:00.001-07:00

I'm so proud of this amazing shoot, great job Orlando!

WHERE I WORK AND WHO I WORK FOR.

2010-08-08T17:03:00.000-07:00

After fielding several emails from readers asking where I work, I decided to offer some insight into my world over the past 10 months. I would like to share with you a bit about the salon where I spend my days, and some of my experience so far. As I mentioned in previous posts, I've followed Orlando Pita's career for many years, dreaming of having a good long conversation with him about hair and his journey with it. One day I was doing online research to see what he was up to, and I came upon this article on the man and his salon by Karen Tina Harrison. An excerpt:

"Orlo is all about hair: No other services are offered, and its plain white space underscores the salon’s tight focus on the scalps and manes of the city’s fashion elite. Set in a Meatpacking District walk-up, the salon is owned by coiffeur Orlando Pita, who honed his reputation over decades of photo shoots."

Harrison describes the salon well, its focus being great hairdressing and efficient service in a studio-like environment. That short article provided me with all the information I needed to know; I was on the right track to finding a new home.

THE INTERVIEW
During my interview with Orlando, I was so nervous! You must understand, I fantasized of simply having a talk with him, but applying for a job at his salon was a little out of my league (or so I humbly thought). As we chatted about my career and professional goals he asked a key question: What was I looking for in applying for the position? My reply was simple: I know there is so much more to hair than I now realize, and I would love to widen the scope of my experience and learn all I can. He smiled and I knew he got my point.

THE PAST 10 MONTHS
As many of you can relate, their are so many layers to the creative aspect of our business, and it's very easy to become comfortable with what you know. Needless to say, the past 10 months have been the most challenging of my career, creatively. Not to say that the early years were not challenging; they most definitely were. The difference with this position was that although I was at my strongest point creatively, I was about to enter a new environment that would drastically change my experience with hair as I've known it thus far.

Let me explain. Throughout my career I've heard so much of 90 degrees, 45 degrees, traveling guidelines. I am very visual, so cutting by numbers just always struck me as odd. The flip side to this is that although being visual is an asset, there has to be a level of precision. So is it possible to have a very visual, relaxed approach to a haircut backed by very clean, precise technique? The answer is "yes" and I have spent the past 10 months adapting to this compromise. Hair-cutting as I know it has totally changed and this is no exaggeration.

The truth is, I can't explain it fully, nor can there be a DVD or even a website illustrating my point. It's a very personalized technique pertaining to the client's face shape, density and texture, and it's done with a razor on dry hair. At Orlo, Joe Martino has been guiding me into this new creative direction and has been generous with sharing what was taught to him by Orlando himself.
What I love most about training under Joe is that he understands my background in cutting wet hair with a razor and scissors; he knows how I think (or how I used to think, I should say). It's been exciting to witness my clients notice the big difference in their hair, and the resulting influx of new clients that are looking for something special that they hear I can provide.

HAIR BY JOE MARTINO

Another area that has been essential to my training is my experience working Fashion Week. It's really a whole other world. In the salon, styling hair is far more forgiving as it's softer, more flexible, and there are no cameras or bright lights. Conversely, during Fashion Week it's totally about efficiency, detail and the ability to hold fresh looks for the cameras. I recall working for the Carolina Herrera show: The look was a sleek finish (not pin-straight) and we were to rely solely on the brush. On finishing, I sized up my model and she looked great. Orlando then came by to coach me (it being my first show ever). Gentle as usual, he expressed satisfaction... right up until he separated the hair, that is. There it was—a small section that was not adequately polished. He kindly but firmly pointed out that every section of hair should be perfect, always. I took his advice to heart. Now, for every client I touch, I remember that moment and try my best to pay attention to the details. I have learned that this vital lesson—attention to detail—is what separates the men from the boys in our industry. : )

I'm sure many of you can relate to the idea that having your dream job can be an utterly rewarding experience, with a ripple effect touching every aspect of your life. Those of you who can't relate (at least not yet), keep working hard and one day you too will have the job you've always wanted. And that's a promise.

Antonio Gonzales

"INOA OR NOT"

2010-07-15T09:29:00.000-07:00

In my color career, hiding gray often meant utilizing ammonia-containing products for perfect coverage. There have been many attempts to manufacture a color treatment without this historically vital chemical, but no matter how great the claims were, the coverage really was never the same. Containing little or no ammonia, these products were thus gentler on the hair, but the results were invariably more of a "gray blending" effect rather than 100% coverage. For some clients this proved sufficient, while others opted for full coverage regardless of potential damage.

When INOA hair color hit the market earlier this year, there was a lot of publicity with claims of its ability to change hair color as we know it. The press it garnered was endless and both hairstylists and clients were waiting to see if the effect would back up all the buzz. Let me make this very clear: I do not use INOA. I will be addressing the topic from the research I have done for my clients and for hairstylists who have sent endless emails inquiring about this product. In my research, I've asked colleagues whom I've worked with in the past who have solid experience with INOA. Who better to ask than those actually using it, right?
A FACT
The one thing we know for sure is that it covers gray and is safe to use on damaged hair. But because I have an extensive color clientele of cool brunettes and beige blondes, I needed to know if I could use these product to satisfy my clients and meet their coloring needs completely and safely.

THE VISUALS
As I began, my research entailed perusing images that were used in magazines, online and in brochures. I noticed the images were quite beautiful, with gold/red tones and very golden blondes. I decided to locate videos as well and found the same—warm golden or red heads of shiny, lustrous hair. There's nothing like a shiny head of hair with sparkling warm tones, but try selling that to the client who hates anything to do with warm, red or gold tones. In a perfect world it would be ideal if all clients were unafraid of warm tones, but in reality, some women would rather go gray than have hair with obvious red tones. And as we know you can achieve shiny hair color using other color brands " if you don't mind ammonia".

So the question is: Can INOA achieve cool brunettes and blondes without warm tones?

CONVERSATIONS WITH OTHER COLORISTS
I asked several colorists working in salons that use INOA, and the feedback was uniform. Here's what a couple had to say:

"I'm still up and down with INOA. I think it's great for some clients (like those with very dry, overprocessed hair). In these cases, the hair looks and even feels amazing. I've never tried it on a blonde, though. I've seen one done by someone else and it was ehh.... Because you must emulsify the roots before rinsing, it's hard not to get the root color on the ends, and when doing a single process color on a blonde, this can be a problem. The results are a blonde that is too warm."

"I'm having a hard time getting blondes without golden tones. We're supposed to have a one-on-one with L'Oréal to learn how... I can't imagine that it's that complicated."

MORE RESEARCH
What I gathered from my research was that although INOA may be ammonia-free, gold tones are hard to avoid, especially with blonde hair. It's up to the client to decide which is more important: ammonia-free color or the absence of golden tones completely (either for a blonde or brunette).

WHY NOT USE INOA?
As soon as the product was launched I began receiving questions from clients as to whether or not I would be using it. I explained to them that when this product was made available, the only way to see its functionality was to attend one of the demos. As hairstylists we often get opportunities to observe and as you can imagine, observing is often not enough: I prefer to get my hands in there and see what the product can actually do without having to take someone else's word for it. Furthermore, in order to use INOA one must purchase the entire color line. Keep in mind that this is by no means cheap (with over 50 shades total). In this economy, a guarantee that INOA performs exactly as publicized is crucial. The best guarantee is for the stylists themselves to play with the product a little. Some may argue that in order to use any new color you must buy the entire line; this may be true, but other color lines aren't making the claims attributed to INOA.

Here's what another colleague said:

"We didn't take the full class. Just got a demo and while I think it's an interesting product, I don't want to invest in the full line. So I think for now we're not going to go with it but rather wait to see if it delivers."

I will continue to research this color line and bring you feedback as my colleagues share their experiences with me. At the end of the day it's wonderful to have an ammonia-free product, but only time will tell if INOA lives up to its promises. And if I start using it you will be the first to know.

Thanks for reading.
Antonio Gonzales

ORLANDO PITA IN PARIS

2010-07-08T17:39:00.000-07:00

Returning to work after the Fourth of July weekend, I must admit I was a little beat and needed a zap to get me back in the swing of things. Luckily I have a boss who's out there setting trends and always feeding me great inspiration. Stay tuned for up-to-date inspirations from Orlando and welcome to Dior couture!

I cant wait to see Orlando to ask him how he created those looks, who knows you could be next!!

Antonio

ORLANDO'S HAIR POWDER IN THE NEW YORK TIMES

2010-06-21T10:13:00.000-07:00

I saw this article in the New York Times yesterday and I was inspired to follow up with one of my old articles on hair powders. The difference is as a hairstylist I do my testing on what works for my clients. Here it is!

TO THE POWDER ROOM

Feeling “not so fresh” the day after your blow dry? Oily scalp getting you down? Is being limp irritating you? We all have those days, don’t we?

Hair stylists such as myself have told you that hair powders are the answer. They help save your three-day blowout by lifting oils from the scalp. They help give body to ladies with fine hair and they can even blend your color if unwanted grays have grown in.

Well, would you like to know what the main differences between the best hair powders on the market are? I would. That’s why I’m here darlings; to put hair products to the test for you and only you.

After trying many different hair powders while performing salon services and freelance , I’ve narrowed it down to 2 with results that will benefit you.

The first is by Bumble and bumble. I’m a huge fan of this line and have used their products for years. I’ve written about them, talked on the radio about them and used them during my photo shoots. Their powders come in 5 different colors in aerosol cans. I’ve been using them for quite some time and my clients approve.

The second is new to me and is by Orlando Pita in the T3 line. It contains three colors and claims to produce comparable results. Over a period of time I have used them both and am prepared to share my thoughts with you now.

First, I took two pieces of white paper and sprayed them with a can of hair powder from each line.

Bumble and bumble- This product adhered to the paper nicely, but no matter how much I sprayed it never accumulated to be as powder-like . When I ran my finger across the paper, it barely moved from the paper.

T3- After a few minutes of spraying this product, it quickly dried and turned into a powder. When I say “powder”, I mean it was as if though I was almost touching loose powder. I could actually rub my fingers together and it would crumble.

I then tried them on clients…

Bumble and bumble- Their blondish was dark on white paper and on the client’s roots I found that it was not versatile enough for different shades of blond. The red was great, the black was black and I did like the brown.

T3- The colors are true to their names. Their light blond is exactly that; on white paper it was a pretty shade and covered it well. Because of its consistency, I was able to spray a little for a lighter blond and more for a deeper blond. The auburn is a true auburn. The coverage was flawless, especially on the re-growth of gray hair. You can actually save money on your single process by applying this on your gray roots. This will allow you to stay away from the salon longer.

The true test here is application. These have to be easy enough for the client to use, which is my main concern. Clearly T3 was the easiest because of its consistency. Ultimately, it’s a hair powder and it should feel like powder no matter what.

Orlando at Derek Lam

Here are two tips on using both Hair powders.

TIPS ON APPLYING BOTH PRODUCTS FOR OILY ROOTS

Shake the can well. Lift the root area and lightly apply hair powder. Work section by section and apply more if needed. If you feel that there is too much in one section, use your blow dryer to remove excess product.

TIPS ON APPLYING BOTH PRODUCTS FOR COVERING GRAY RE-GROWTH

Try spraying the powder on a sponge tip applicator or makeup brush and apply to the gray hair while trying to avoid the scalp. It will eventually get on the scalp on its own which is fine.

Please try both powders and see which is best for you.

Antonio

A DESTINATION WEDDING

2010-06-15T09:13:00.000-07:00

When my client (and friend), Leah, asked if I would do her hair for her destination wedding in St Martin, I couldn’t help but yell yes before she was finished asking. Not only was I fond of Leah, I was so happy that she found her match and honored to be included in celebrating their special day in the Caribbean. I had never visited the island of St. Martin but I had been to other Caribbean islands to work for other weddings (St. Johns, St Thomas and St Kitts). Coming from Trinidad and Tobago, I'm always excited to see how my West Indian brothers and sisters live.
With bags packed and bridal kit in tow I was off to the airport. As the plane landed in St Martin, I was amazed by the crystal clear blue waters and the amazing landscape. I rushed off the plane to be greeted by smiling faces and a very courteous taxi driver. For a second, I thought it was a bit early for these people to be hitting the cocktails, but these were genuinely happy people. No rum needed (not at least until later anyway). As we drove through the Dutch side of the island to get to the French side, everything seemed very familiar. The architecture, hills and people waving at the taxi was all like scenes I had experienced before. As we approached the hotel, I was happy to see that it looked just as the images did on the website. It was beautiful indeed.
The greeting from the reception was slow and sweet. You had no choice but to slow down and embrace the smiling faces and sip a Rum Punch (fruit punch in my case). From the first night, I knew this was certainly worth writing about and wanted to share with all of you future brides-to-be this magical place and all the people who made it possible.

THE HAIR
The bride was very clear on what she wanted and it was important that she looked like who she is today, not an idea that she had when she was 10 years old. In other words, there would be no Cinderella hair.
WEDDING PLANNER
Engel Baron Events totally pulled this important day together with out a single problem. They arranged the flowers and even went to the flower shop when the flowers arrived by boat to make certain that it was exactly what the bride wanted. They also sent us off on a boat trip to a small island and took care of all of the details from pulling the entire wedding party together at 9am and getting us all on our designated boats.

It even seemed like they made a deal with the rain gods to stop the previous two days of rain providing us perfect weather for the day of the wedding.
Great job guys!

PHOTOGRAPHER
Talk about a talented hard working team. I've had my full share of destination weddings and these guys were amazing with beautiful images to show for it. Rain or shine they loved capturing images of Leah's special day and it showed.

RADISSON HOTEL ST MARTIN
I was then sent the information for the Hotel where the wedding would be held and where we stayed and instantly started doing my research. The Hotel was the Radisson in the French side of St Martin and online it looked beautiful. Whoever designed this hotel deserves a pat on the shoulder. Talk about a job well done. The rooms were spacious and modern with colors that were easy on the eye.
The grounds were full of flowers that were well pruned and the staff was as warm as my island people could get. I visited the beautiful hotel spa and spoke to Estelle Germain who was in charge. She gave me a tour and we discussed all the services they offered. From Indian to Thai massages and a full manicure and pedicure salon, they even brought in hairstylists to help with the family of the bride and groom. In a nut shell (or sea shell) the hotel was fully equipped and if they did not have something, they made it happen without a hassle.

I LOVE ST MARTIN!!

WHATS HOT FOR TODAYS WOMAN

2010-05-20T18:10:00.000-07:00

Minding my own business on the Q Train last week I noticed something interesting. Three girls were sporting the same hair do. All three of these girls were actually of different ethnicity which I thought was really cool. The look was longer hair with waves starting around the cheekbone area and gently falling around the face to the ends.

Three years later Orlando Pita did Madonna for her music album and did these gorgeous waves that really matched her country and western style.

It seems like this style has changed a bit and has since changed size curl while becoming a little more coiffed (this look is too done for my liking).

Since then following the feel of longer sexy hair, we created the following looks for Fashion week (with much guidance and help from Orlando) for Osca de Larenta's fall collection which was reminiscent of Farah Fawcett meets Dynasty.

The same week we worked on the Diane Von Furstenberg fall show giving a more textured messy feel that was still sexy. Orlando's words were "no tight curls please!" (we all smiled).

One week after my Q train experience I'm at the salon and noticed a version of these two looks that pushed the limit with texture and sex appeal. And to my surprise guess who styled the hair? Orlando (smile). So now, a look that may have startedover ten years ago is being re-vamped and its sexier than ever!

TIP
Ladies its all about texture. Try braiding your hair when you go to bed, in the morning take pieces of hair and style with your iron as usual. In other words, messier is better. Or you can even do your hair the night before with the curling iron and sleep on it, and before you leave home use some Elevate by Orlando Pita to give your hair that texture that only the beach and a good roll in the hay can give (without the salt or the straw). Even braiding the hair in smaller sections and going over it with a flat iron can create the illusion of a messier slept in texture.

I wish you all messy sexy hair this summer!

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A GLAZE AND A GLOSS

2010-05-12T12:15:00.000-07:00

Throughout my career, I have heard these two words thrown around like rag dolls by a five year old. Now, it's time to know the difference. I did extensive research and read many articles from fellow NYC stylists like Rita ,Marie and my co-workers at the Orlo salon to inspire this article.

THE HAIR GLAZE
What comes to mind when I hear the word glaze is a shiny delicate surface, like that of a glazed cake.

So, after my research, I was happy to know that we all agreed (some hairstylists) that a glaze is a temporary color that can add great shine to a virgin head of hair or color treated hair. Some glazes have pigment added to boost any matching hair color. Weather it’s clear or colored, glazes add a safe translucent coating to the hair shaft that washes off in 12-14 shampoos. Glazes contain no ammonia or peroxide which means it does not have the ability to lift your natural color or open the cuticle to deposit color. It gently lays on the surface of the hair. Glazes will not cover gray hair, not even a few. However, on someone with "a few gray hairs" it can add over all shine and a hint of a colored tone.

One of my favorite glazes is Color Shines by Sebastian (cellophane's). I have been using this product for over 16 years and I still love the results. This temporary gel like substance comes in clear and a variety of colors that can compliment any brunette or blond. Keep in mind there are other glazes on the market but this is my favorite, I'm yet to be disappointed by this product.

To use on virgin hair, I first I shampoo the hair with a clarifying shampoo to remove all product residue. I then towel dry well and apply from roots through the ends. I place a plastic cap and sit the client under heat for 20 minutes. After the 20 minutes allow to cool for 5 minute and rinse well.

TIP
Use an old school hooded dryer. I prefer the results compared to a Roller ball or a Climazone. The heat and strong flow of air from the hooded dryer works better for me.

Do not shampoo. Rinse well with cool water (7-10 minutes) and condition only.

If using colored glaze wear gloves, apply protective cream to the hair line and avoid the scalp because this baby stains the skin.

THE GLOSS
When I think of a gloss, I think of car paint or nail polish, something stronger and longer lasting.

We also agreed (my fellow hairstylists) that a hair gloss is the stronger of the two. It contains peroxide and does have the ability to budge the cuticle depositing longer lasting color. If used with heat on virgin hair some glosses will give lift to the hair changing the tone by a shade (I have seen it with my own eyes). When used on color treated blond or brunette hair, it will add shine and enhance the existing tones in the hair which can be a life saver a month after having your hair colored. Glosses can be clear or come in many different colors (more colors than glazes) and can last up to 3-4 weeks. They can be applied to dry or towel dried hair and as mentioned, can be used with heat or no heat (like color touch by Wella)

One of my favorite glosses is Dia Color by L’Oreal. This can make a blond sparkle a month and a half after getting the color done, which means you and prolong your next visit to the salon for your full color application.

TIP
1) If you have virgin hair in need of shine but sensitive to chemical or the slightest change in the texture or tone of your hair, I highly recommend using a glaze. Do not take any chances with the lowest volume peroxide in a gloss. It’s better to be safe than sorry baby!

2) If your hair is damaged and you have a choice between either a Gloss or a Glaze, I highly recommend a glaze. Even the lowest volume peroxide can make a bad situation worse.

3) When sitting at the shampoo bowl after having your color rinsed and an assistant or stylist is about to apply that final product for "shine" Ask weather or not if it has peroxide and if so, must it be used. Sometimes the healthier alternative could make your hair love you more.

Keep in mind that Glosses are a girl’s best friend (especially for blending gray hair) but it should be used when necessary and on hair that really needs it.

I wish you shine, shine, shine!!

MY NEW WEBSITE

2010-05-04T14:51:00.000-07:00

I'm really excited to share with you my new "coming soon" page for my improved website. When it’s completed, I will be offering a variety of helpful links for my clients and readers. From a Podcast to a large detailed picture gallery of my work as well as links to my on going writing for other web sites will all be featured. I spent some serious time with Benjamin pulling this together and I'm very happy with the results.

Thanks Benjamin!

CHRIS CARRABBA THE MUSICIAN

2010-04-29T17:35:00.000-07:00

I was recently chilling with Chris Carrabba in the salon talking hair and brainstorming ideas for his haircut. You see, I have been lucky to work with Chris for the past eight years and I'm so proud of his hard work. Both Chris and I met just before his cover on Spin magazine and have worked together ever since.

Here are some of the cuts we have done in the past.

Not only is Chris a very kind talented man, he has "damn good hair". Over the years it has been fun working on Chris and creating different ideas to keep his hair masculine and fresh. He is also a great performer as well and can really carry a crowd. I did the band’s hair for there performance at Madison Square Garden and it was amazing!

Waiting to go on stage

On stage working his magic!

I also had a great time last year in LA when we were doing the Album cover.

Recently Chris and I met at Orlo Salon and as usual we had a good chat reminiscing the early years in NYC. Then we got down to some cutting for his upcoming performances after opening for Bon Jovi and the results made us both happy.

It’s always a pleasure seeing Chris and needless to say after his performance he texted to say that it was the best haircut he ever had and loved the salon.

Thanks Chris!!

DUDE, ARE YOU LOOSING YOUR HAIR?

2010-04-21T06:34:00.000-07:00

I'm not going to get into the scientific reasons as to why it happens, but It happens to some of us at some point in our lives. What I will share with you is how to loose your hair without looking like you're trying to hide a Chihuahua. As our hair starts thinning and we start cutting our hair shorter here are some tips that men should consider, these tips will help you feel good about nature taking its course. (It could be worse, you could loose all your teeth!!)

DONT'S
1) Do not try to wear your hair in a faux hawk, thinking that you are being trendy. The faux hawk died a terrible death a few years ago. Not only is the style a bad idea, it does not work as a modern comb over.

2) Avoid strong gels that will make the hair clump together creating more spaces and further making the hair appear to be thinner.

3) Do not comb your hair forward like a Cesar cut. This style is also not a wise option and it once again looks obvious that you are insecure about your thinning hair.

4) Do not think that the same stylist you have had for years will still handle your hair best. Try someone new for fresh ideas. It’s all about you and what’s best for your hair at this stage in your life.

DO'S
1) Start talking to your stylist and your loved one about going shorter and their thoughts. Your head shape might be perfect for a great super low cut.

2) Do get a hand mirror and take a look at what’s happening at the back of your head. Yes the front is thinning, but you can still focus on making sure that the back looks good and the stylist is not keeping your hair too long at the back to compensate.

3) Try using lighter dry pastes or leave-in conditioners that are light enough rather than heavy waxes or gels.

4) Before you shave your hair off, I highly recommend getting a second opinion on haircut options. If you are very thin on top and really want to take the plunge, have a barber shave it all off and help you up keep your new look. Leave it to the professionals all the way.

5) You may even consider not using product. I find that some hair types look thicker with no product at all in it.

Antonio