Wednesday, August 17, 2011

HELPFUL HOW-TO-HAIR VIDEOS CAN HURT YOU.

A new client arrived for an appointment and the first thing the entire salon noticed was her very dark hair and her very orange ends.
As I started my consultation I could feel the extreme damage and fragility of the ends with my fingers. We talked about her haircut, then it was time for a serious color conversation. She instantly admitted she’d viewed some “do-it-yourself” Ombré color videos on YouTube, and this was the result.

For those of you who don't know, “Ombré” is a french word describing the transitioning of color from light to dark or from one color to another.Its generally used to describe the color on fabric but was taken up to describe hair color.

This look on hair has also been around forever, sometimes intentionally sometimes not. It was just made more marketable to get the attention of fad hungry fans.

Whose fault is it that this young lady ended up with broken orange hair? Is it the client for not realizing that a color technique like that is for professionals only? Or is it the person who made the do-it-yourself YouTube video promising perfect results? Sadly, I would say both. Perhaps the client was naive, but the “professional” in the video should have known better. Unfortunately, this merry little video mayhem maker was looking more for attention, rather than delivering great results for viewers.

Work with what you’ve got!

There are many things that can be taught in do-it-yourself videos. Hair coloring that requires a professional is simply not one of them. Understanding color chemistry and the reaction to color on hair is one of the many vital keys to achieving good results. Not only is the chemistry of color important to know, the correct application cannot be self-applied. Even if you ask someone else to apply it, if they have no knowledge of hair or color, this still remains a formula for disaster.

The lesson to be learned here is to work with what you have and can afford. If you see a hair color that you must have then save for it. It may mean not going to the bar on Friday or buying those new shoes. It may even mean you are better off without it and leave your natural color. As a hairstylist, I can assure you that color correction one of the biggest tickets to get written in any salon. When a client walks in with an "at home” color job gone wrong, it can cost her $300 to $1,500 (yes…fifteen hundred) to repair a $10, and in this case YouTube video, mistake.

Speaking of the Internet…

During a live online interview recently, I was asked to assess someone's hair and make a decision on whether they should relax it or do a Keratin treatment. I quickly admitted I was in no position to answer the question. It is impossible to assess someone's hair when you can't see it, touch it and have a meaningful conversation about the person’s expectations, lifestyle and interest in maintenance. In all candor, I will admit to violating this rule. In the past I have had readers ask for recommendations on hair color, but only after they've provided extensive information on their hair, color and current color formula, did I respond. However, I always have included a strong disclaimer: “Unless I can see your hair in person, there are no guarantees Honey!”



Antonio Gonzales


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Wednesday, August 3, 2011

PRENANCY + HAIR = BEAUTIFUL!!

One of my clients came into the salon I instantly noticed something very different: her hair was soooo thick! I commented, “Darling, your hair is gorgeous!” She smiled and casually shrugged it off. Two months later, she admitted she was pregnant. Let me tell you honey, the next time you even think you are pregnant, book an appointment and I will do the rest! LOL!

Image courtesy of my client Beatriz Royo at BHH Portraits.


Pregnancy and hair can be a very complicated. Between the chemicals to avoid and the weight gain that can’t be, I encounter many challenges with my clients as they prepare to go through the changes that happen during pregnancy. So, even before you are pregnant and you start thinking about having the stork deliver you a bundle of joy, here are some helpful tips:

A) If you have short hair, think about whether or not you would like to keep short hair as you gain weight. I recommend growing your hair a little to create some soft layers against the cheek and neckline. As time passes and you get closer to giving birth, apart from thinking about what makes you look great more importantly, think about what’s easy to manage.

B) If you have long hair, I would recommend making little changes to your style. As you gain weight soften your look by taking the length up a bit and add layers (if you don't have any). While length is good to have, there is no need to condemn yourself to a ponytail during pregnancy or after. If you have bangs you may want to consider growing them out. Having a fringe (bangs) can be a bit annoying once the baby arrives and you have much less time for yourself.

C) If you're a Blond that's a natural Brunette and you plan not to color your hair during pregnancy (which is advised) here's some advise for you. Start going darker gradually while planning to become pregnant, this way you won't have to worry about missing color appointments in your first four months of pregnancy and showing extreme roots.

D) Whatever your hair texture, start working with your hairstylist on techniques to achieve quick, easy styles. You can even invest in some beautiful hair bands or clips (no butterfly clips please).


I'm looking forward to hearing the pitter-patter of little feet :)




Antonio Gonzales


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Sunday, July 31, 2011

NO MORE WAVES, TIME FOR SHORT HAIR WITH AN EDGE.



U.S. Domination Is Over

Long wavy curls have dominated the hair styling world for way too long.

Not only has the style been abused, it actually takes away from a woman's individuality, having women of every ethnicity looking, the same with long lovely locks. It encouraged women to hold on to their long hair in order to feel they were sporting a modern look. In actuality, it has women who should not have long hair feel like they should. But to what end? To wear an unflattering look to feel like they belonged? The choice is theirs.

Now some feel that the next fad is the short wave bob, boring!!

As hairstylists, it is important to help our clients maintain their individuality. A woman's hair should only not reflect the latest fad, but be an expression of the woman herself. In other words…there should never be identical copying of hairstyles for every woman big or small short or tall. I see Fashion magazines promoting a certain haircut as the latest trend for everyone, bad idea, that's so 1980's. Explain to the client that if she's walking down the street and sees 10 other women sporting the same popular style, then it's time to rethink her hairdo (or hair don't).

I'm happy to report that we are turning a new page.


The Long & Short Of It

With new fads around the corner, I want to share my views on what I'm seeing coming forward. Are you ready? Brace yourself. Chic short hair!

This fad is for the woman who feel's secure enough to rock this “new” style (no matter what their friends say). This fad will also challenge us hairstylists. It is not only about taking hair and drastically cutting it shorter, it is about working on the client who is ready for a change and for whom the change is appropriate.

Add your personal creativity, listen to your client and take into consideration the reality of her lifestyle needs, then create a style that is made to fit. Make sure of you are offering her this short chic look that it suits her facial shape, neckline and shoulder width. Add your personal creativity, listen to your client and take into consideration the reality of her lifestyle needs, then create a style that is made to fit.


What is very different about the previous “Victoria Beckham cut” (which dominated the streets for way too long)


compared to this cut is its sophistication, strength and femininity.

The techniques we use to achieve this cut are important, its about sculpting the hairstyle be it wet or dry, via scissors or razor. Strong shapes are important but keep away from the drastic A-line or bulky graduated bobs. Styling results that are very versatile also are important, it's about precision without being dated, bulky or “Beckem”.


Only a great hair cut can be easy to style in different ways.


Color will also play an increasing part in this refreshed short style. Trends now show it's not about chunks of highlights or a slice of pink. If you want pink, go for it!


Antonio Gonzales



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Tuesday, July 26, 2011

STOP THE FAKE CURLS AND WAVES!!!!!!!!

On the Train, on the bus or on the beach, its curls, waves, curls!!!! I am forced to repost this article to once again show the birth of a style that women of all races have embraced. The problem is that the fad is long gone and we need to let it die a natural death...

Hairstylists if your clients are asking for waves of this type be upfront, tell them that the look is dead and should be left alone. I know its not easy to deny a client a hairstyle that she (and her girlfriends) think is the trend. As a friend of mine said, once its a trend its old news!!

There are many versions of this style that are still safe to play with, but remember the messier the better. I wrote this article over 5 months ago, so if you forgot here it is(for the last time).


Minding my own business on the Q Train last week I noticed something interesting. Three girls were sporting the same hair do. All three of these girls were actually of different ethnicity which I thought was really cool. The look was longer hair with waves starting around the cheekbone area and gently falling around the face to the ends.

How sweet (I thought to myself) all these sisters are working the same look. It’s a look that's really easy to re-create but my only concern is that it’s already being over used on reality shows. Can I bear seeing every woman of all ages wearing it in NYC as well? It got me thinking so I started doing my research. When did this look go mainstream?

Well to my surprise as I looked through countless styles over the years it brought me to this image which was done by Orlando Pita in 1997.


Three years later Orlando Pita did Madonna for her music album and did these gorgeous waves that really matched her country and western style.


It seems like this style has changed a bit and has since changed size curl while becoming a little more coiffed (this look is too done for my liking).

Since then following the feel of longer sexy hair, we created the following looks for Fashion week (with much guidance and help from Orlando) for Oscar de Larenta's fall collection which was reminiscent of Farah Fawcett meets Dynasty.


The same week we worked on the Diane Von Furstenberg fall show giving a more textured messy feel that was still sexy. Orlando's words were "no tight curls please!" (we all smiled).



One week after my Q train experience I'm at the salon and noticed a version of these two looks that pushed the limit with texture and sex appeal. And to my surprise guess who styled the hair? Orlando (smile). So now, a look that may have started over ten years ago is being re-vamped and its sexier than ever!



TIP
Ladies its all about texture. Try braiding your hair when you go to bed, in the morning take pieces of hair and style with your iron as usual. In other words, messier is better. Or you can even do your hair the night before with the curling iron and sleep on it, and before you leave home use some Elevate by Orlando Pita to give your hair that texture that only the beach and a good roll in the hay can give (without the salt or the straw). Even braiding the hair in smaller sections and going over it with a flat iron can create the illusion of a messier slept in texture.

I wish you all messy sexy hair this summer!


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Wednesday, July 20, 2011

TRINIDADIAN FRIEND AND CELEBRITY FASHION STYLIST FREDDIE LEIBA DOES BEYONCE!

I first met Freddie in 1990 through his long time buddy Anthony Medina. It was my first time traveling to the U.S. and was blown away by Freddie's talent, generosity and sense of humor. Since then Freddie has always been an inspiration to me and always will.

Congrats Freddie!






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Saturday, June 25, 2011

MY RECENT WORK IN MIAMI.







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Wednesday, June 22, 2011

KINDLY ASK YOUR HAIRSTYLIST FOR A CLEAN HAIR BRUSHES!!


Did you know that a hairstylist using a brush full of someone else’s hair to style you is almost the same as brushing your teeth with someone else’s toothbrush?

As a client, there are many things you deserve and I’d like to touch on one of them today; clean hair brushes. Have you ever sat in your hairstylist’s chair and seen them reach for the brush only to catch a previous client’s hair staring right back at you? Well, I have. In my many years working in the beauty industry I’ve seen many a brunette pay good money for a style only to leave with someone else’s blonde hair on her shoulders, NOT COOL!

Ladies, gents, heed my words of experience and wisdom on a topic most hairstylists aren’t rushing to open up about. If you’ve never really considered it, let me offer you some food for thought… when a brush is used on a freshly shampooed head of hair, the hairstylist has no way of telling if the client has a scalp condition shampooing won’t get rid of and as the hair is being dried, the brush rubs up against the scalp, removing any debris (e.g. dead skin cells) and collecting some of it up in the bristles and if you happen to be “lucky” enough to follow her, you come in, hugging and kissing your stylist, completely unsuspecting of that seemingly innocent brush with a dirty little secret. Did someone say cross-contamination??? (lol!)

So here’s what I recommend; the next time you go to a salon and you see the stylist make the move to grab a dirty brush, go on a hit them with a Karate-CHOP! (just joking) No, but seriously, simply tell the stylist something along the lines of “Can you please use a clean brush on me?” Sit back and observe the stylist’s reaction; this teeny tiny request can cause one of two, the stylist will either apologize and quickly grab a clean one, or you’ll note the stylist’s embarrassment while he/she fumbles to find you a clean brush.

The reason I chose to write about this is because I want you, as the client, to know that you’re not being a nuisance; you have a right to a clean brush every single time you have your hair styled at a salon. Yeah, I said it; a clean brush is your RIGHT. I don’t know if you knew this but, the State Board of Cosmetology REQUIRES that clean and dirty brushes be kept separately from one another so as to avoid contamination like the kind I just described, so I’m not the only one telling you it’s your right, this is the law!

With all of what I’ve just shared with you, I hope you’re inspired to set the standard when it comes to what tools you allow a stylist to use while working on your hair…

I wish you all clean brushes and healthy scalps!!!


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Friday, June 17, 2011

CHRIS CARRABBA AND TAYLOR SWIFT BACKSTAGE.

As usual seeing Chris Carrabba for his haircuts is always a treat. This time we cut and styled his hair for his recent performance, here he is backstage with Taylor Swift!! Chris thanked me once again for keeping his hair up-to-date and fresh for his very busy lifestyle.

See you soon buddy!!

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Thursday, June 9, 2011

FAREWELL WAYNE BERKELEY.


Over 20 years ago I was Introduced to Mas man Wayne Berkeley through his long time friend Anthony Medina. From the get go, Wayne was very warm, caring and willing to share his extensive creativity with anyone who wanted to experience it. As time passed I was one of many people around the world to experience Wayne's generosity with his gifts, endless efforts to share his creative (sparing no expense) and his warm laugh that accompanied it all.

Time after time Wayne's love for Carnival and anything to do with design has emerged as original and powerful as no other. Some of my best years of Carnival was in Wayne's band wearing his fabulous costumes and seeing Wayne zipping through the band celebrating with his masqueraders.


Today I was able to see Mr. Berkeley before his passing and say my official goodbye. Wayne you have been an incredible inspiration to me, your generosity has captured my heart and your legendary talent has affected my soul.

Thanks Wayne, you will never been forgotten!










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Wednesday, June 8, 2011

BIKE RIDING IN TOBAGO.

Meet The Unofficial Ambassador of Tobago!

If you are thinking of visiting Tobago for its incredible rain forest and spectacular diving, how about an amazing bike ride? Let me back track a little. About 20 years ago I met my friend Eamon, one of the best unofficial ambassadors of Tobago there is. With his positive vibes and love for Tobago, I immediately knew we would get along. Whenever I return to Tobago, I always make sure to visit Eamon and am consistently welcomed with a warm, friendly hello.

Among the many outdoor activities I enjoy in Tobago, I had never experienced a bike ride with Eamon across the island. I have to tell you, this is the island I ran wild on! It is an island I thought I knew so well...until today!

We scheduled a 3pm ride. I went to Eamon’s home and was embraced by Fat boy, one of his dogs.

We talked a bit and I got a bike, helmet and gloves and we were off. Eamon served as my trusted tour guide. Pssssssssh! Like I needed one!

We rode through village after village…all fairly familiar and expected. All of a sudden, I found myself being lead through back yards, passing goats, chickens and smiling kids asking us to perform tricks on our bikes. Eamon was more than happy to please them. And as quickly as it had begun, all of a sudden I found myself standing at the crest of spectacular cliff towering over crystal clear blue/green water and rocks.

My jaw literally dropped. Eamon simply smiled and led us on to our next destination. Before you know it, we were riding through a fishing village,

through a park and climbing steep hills. I honestly thought I had experienced it all until we were riding through a lush estate.

All of a sudden we came upon an amazing white sand pit surrounded by blue waters. Nirvana!

Eamon thankfully dug in to his back pack and pulled out some healthy snacks. We chatted in this private paradise a bit, then recharged, we hit the pedals again. On the way back, we thought we accidentally ran over a 4 foot snake! To my bloody surprise, Eamon jumped off his bike and ran into the bushes to make sure the snake was okay.

Would you believe he not only caught the snake (which we thankfully did not hurt), but he also picked it up and apologized for scaring it! He then released the reptile back to the bushes.

I am simply blown away by his compassion for all living things. That compassion and passion also extends to the flora and fauna native to our beloved Trinidad and Tobago. On our way back he described the many crabs that were along our track scurrying about with bright orange legs. They kept disappearing, one after the other, like a wave of fire it was spectacular!


We carefully crossed a major road and headed into an area called Friendship Estate. I was familiar with the Friendship Estate, but not like this! It is extremely lush with many small streams covered with big rocks and large tree roots protruding from the earth and water. It’s like a scene from Jurassic park! Needless to say our adrenaline rush continued! Off we went sweating and thirsty, ready to find our way home.

If you want to get a view of Tobago that you won’t get from a boat, plane or car, I highly recommend Amon for a visually stimulating experience while you stay healthy.

Great job Eamon!

Email: tobagomountainbike@hotmail.com
Phone: (868)332 5872


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