Thursday, May 20, 2010

WHATS HOT FOR TODAYS WOMAN

Minding my own business on the Q Train last week I noticed something interesting. Three girls were sporting the same hair do. All three of these girls were actually of different ethnicity which I thought was really cool. The look was longer hair with waves starting around the cheekbone area and gently falling around the face to the ends.

How sweet (I thought to myself) all these sisters are working the same look. It’s a look that's really easy to re-create but my only concern is that it’s already being over used on reality shows. Can I bear seeing every woman of all ages wearing it in NYC as well? It got me thinking so I started doing my research. When did this look go mainstream?

Well to my surprise as I looked through countless styles over the years it brought me to this image which was done by Orlando Pita in 1997.


Three years later Orlando Pita did Madonna for her music album and did these gorgeous waves that really matched her country and western style.


It seems like this style has changed a bit and has since changed size curl while becoming a little more coiffed (this look is too done for my liking).

Since then following the feel of longer sexy hair, we created the following looks for Fashion week (with much guidance and help from Orlando) for Osca de Larenta's fall collection which was reminiscent of Farah Fawcett meets Dynasty.


The same week we worked on the Diane Von Furstenberg fall show giving a more textured messy feel that was still sexy. Orlando's words were "no tight curls please!" (we all smiled).



One week after my Q train experience I'm at the salon and noticed a version of these two looks that pushed the limit with texture and sex appeal. And to my surprise guess who styled the hair? Orlando (smile). So now, a look that may have startedover ten years ago is being re-vamped and its sexier than ever!



TIP
Ladies its all about texture. Try braiding your hair when you go to bed, in the morning take pieces of hair and style with your iron as usual. In other words, messier is better. Or you can even do your hair the night before with the curling iron and sleep on it, and before you leave home use some Elevate by Orlando Pita to give your hair that texture that only the beach and a good roll in the hay can give (without the salt or the straw). Even braiding the hair in smaller sections and going over it with a flat iron can create the illusion of a messier slept in texture.

I wish you all messy sexy hair this summer!


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Wednesday, May 12, 2010

THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A GLAZE AND A GLOSS




Throughout my career, I have heard these two words thrown around like rag dolls by a five year old. Now, it's time to know the difference. I did extensive research and read many articles from fellow NYC stylists like Rita ,Marie and my co-workers at the Orlo salon to inspire this article.

THE HAIR GLAZE
What comes to mind when I hear the word glaze is a shiny delicate surface, like that of a glazed cake.

So, after my research, I was happy to know that we all agreed (some hairstylists) that a glaze is a temporary color that can add great shine to a virgin head of hair or color treated hair. Some glazes have pigment added to boost any matching hair color. Weather it’s clear or colored, glazes add a safe translucent coating to the hair shaft that washes off in 12-14 shampoos. Glazes contain no ammonia or peroxide which means it does not have the ability to lift your natural color or open the cuticle to deposit color. It gently lays on the surface of the hair. Glazes will not cover gray hair, not even a few. However, on someone with "a few gray hairs" it can add over all shine and a hint of a colored tone.

One of my favorite glazes is Color Shines by Sebastian (cellophane's). I have been using this product for over 16 years and I still love the results. This temporary gel like substance comes in clear and a variety of colors that can compliment any brunette or blond. Keep in mind there are other glazes on the market but this is my favorite, I'm yet to be disappointed by this product.


To use on virgin hair, I first I shampoo the hair with a clarifying shampoo to remove all product residue. I then towel dry well and apply from roots through the ends. I place a plastic cap and sit the client under heat for 20 minutes. After the 20 minutes allow to cool for 5 minute and rinse well.

TIP
Use an old school hooded dryer. I prefer the results compared to a Roller ball or a Climazone. The heat and strong flow of air from the hooded dryer works better for me.

Do not shampoo. Rinse well with cool water (7-10 minutes) and condition only.

If using colored glaze wear gloves, apply protective cream to the hair line and avoid the scalp because this baby stains the skin.

THE GLOSS
When I think of a gloss, I think of car paint or nail polish, something stronger and longer lasting.

We also agreed (my fellow hairstylists) that a hair gloss is the stronger of the two. It contains peroxide and does have the ability to budge the cuticle depositing longer lasting color. If used with heat on virgin hair some glosses will give lift to the hair changing the tone by a shade (I have seen it with my own eyes). When used on color treated blond or brunette hair, it will add shine and enhance the existing tones in the hair which can be a life saver a month after having your hair colored. Glosses can be clear or come in many different colors (more colors than glazes) and can last up to 3-4 weeks. They can be applied to dry or towel dried hair and as mentioned, can be used with heat or no heat (like color touch by Wella)

One of my favorite glosses is Dia Color by L’Oreal. This can make a blond sparkle a month and a half after getting the color done, which means you and prolong your next visit to the salon for your full color application.


TIP
1) If you have virgin hair in need of shine but sensitive to chemical or the slightest change in the texture or tone of your hair, I highly recommend using a glaze. Do not take any chances with the lowest volume peroxide in a gloss. It’s better to be safe than sorry baby!

2) If your hair is damaged and you have a choice between either a Gloss or a Glaze, I highly recommend a glaze. Even the lowest volume peroxide can make a bad situation worse.

3) When sitting at the shampoo bowl after having your color rinsed and an assistant or stylist is about to apply that final product for "shine" Ask weather or not if it has peroxide and if so, must it be used. Sometimes the healthier alternative could make your hair love you more.

Keep in mind that Glosses are a girl’s best friend (especially for blending gray hair) but it should be used when necessary and on hair that really needs it.

I wish you shine, shine, shine!!






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Tuesday, May 4, 2010

MY NEW WEBSITE

I'm really excited to share with you my new "coming soon" page for my improved website. When it’s completed, I will be offering a variety of helpful links for my clients and readers. From a Podcast to a large detailed picture gallery of my work as well as links to my on going writing for other web sites will all be featured. I spent some serious time with Benjamin pulling this together and I'm very happy with the results.

Thanks Benjamin!


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Thursday, April 29, 2010

CHRIS CARRABBA THE MUSICIAN

I was recently chilling with Chris Carrabba in the salon talking hair and brainstorming ideas for his haircut. You see, I have been lucky to work with Chris for the past eight years and I'm so proud of his hard work. Both Chris and I met just before his cover on Spin magazine and have worked together ever since.

Here are some of the cuts we have done in the past.






Not only is Chris a very kind talented man, he has "damn good hair". Over the years it has been fun working on Chris and creating different ideas to keep his hair masculine and fresh. He is also a great performer as well and can really carry a crowd. I did the band’s hair for there performance at Madison Square Garden and it was amazing!

Waiting to go on stage

On stage working his magic!

I also had a great time last year in LA when we were doing the Album cover.



Recently Chris and I met at Orlo Salon and as usual we had a good chat reminiscing the early years in NYC. Then we got down to some cutting for his upcoming performances after opening for Bon Jovi and the results made us both happy.

It’s always a pleasure seeing Chris and needless to say after his performance he texted to say that it was the best haircut he ever had and loved the salon.

Thanks Chris!!

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Wednesday, April 21, 2010

DUDE, ARE YOU LOOSING YOUR HAIR?

I'm not going to get into the scientific reasons as to why it happens, but It happens to some of us at some point in our lives. What I will share with you is how to loose your hair without looking like you're trying to hide a Chihuahua. As our hair starts thinning and we start cutting our hair shorter here are some tips that men should consider, these tips will help you feel good about nature taking its course. (It could be worse, you could loose all your teeth!!)

DONT'S
1) Do not try to wear your hair in a faux hawk, thinking that you are being trendy. The faux hawk died a terrible death a few years ago. Not only is the style a bad idea, it does not work as a modern comb over.

2) Avoid strong gels that will make the hair clump together creating more spaces and further making the hair appear to be thinner.

3) Do not comb your hair forward like a Cesar cut. This style is also not a wise option and it once again looks obvious that you are insecure about your thinning hair.

4) Do not think that the same stylist you have had for years will still handle your hair best. Try someone new for fresh ideas. It’s all about you and what’s best for your hair at this stage in your life.

DO'S
1) Start talking to your stylist and your loved one about going shorter and their thoughts. Your head shape might be perfect for a great super low cut.

2) Do get a hand mirror and take a look at what’s happening at the back of your head. Yes the front is thinning, but you can still focus on making sure that the back looks good and the stylist is not keeping your hair too long at the back to compensate.

3) Try using lighter dry pastes
or leave-in conditioners that are light enough rather than heavy waxes or gels.

4) Before you shave your hair off, I highly recommend getting a second opinion on haircut options. If you are very thin on top and really want to take the plunge, have a barber shave it all off and help you up keep your new look. Leave it to the professionals all the way.

5) You may even consider not using product.
I find that some hair types look thicker with no product at all in it.

Antonio




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Friday, April 16, 2010

HAIR BY ANTONIO


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Thursday, April 15, 2010

MENS HAIR: TREND WATCH

It’s very obvious that what’s happening on the runways for men's fashion and hair is hitting mainstream America by storm. With companies like Top Shop and Uniqlo dishing out looks that are current with designs from the runways, men are exposed to more options and are actually embracing them with ease. The same is happening with hair. Some years ago, it started with the Faux Hawk to the Mohawk. Then as the hair started growing it has moved to a version of the Pompadour. With the hair shaved at the sides and back and not as much height on top, but the focus on the heavy shine and lacquered look. Some men pushed it even further and are growing out the front really long so it can be worn back, front or off to the side.

OUT WITH THE OLD AND IN WITH THE NEW

On runways those who still sported the short sides and back with longer tops wore their hair textured with height to move away from the sleek look and give the appearance of length.

Dior


Guy's its time to prepare for the next trend. Are you man enough? Or should I say is your hair stylist good enough?? Across the world on runways it’s obvious what the next wave is, and this is a look that only the brave at heart will endure. Long hair is the latest trend and it’s not going to be an easy one to achieve. Although men who would never dream of wearing a Mohawk did, long hair is very different. This is a style that never made it before in mainstream America, well not like the shorter styles anyway. Designers like Dior,



Rick Owens,



and Louis Vuitton


are just a few of the designers that sourced models with longer hair and had their hair stylists add their magic to make this trend masculine and desirable.

GETTING READY

If you are like me and are willing to go to any lengths to have long hair and be current for fall 2010 here are some tips to get you there.

1) If you are currently seeing a regular barber be sure that he or she is versed enough to take you through the short to long transition.

2) If you are seriously unhappy with the way your stylist is cutting your hair as it gets longer it might be time for a change. Get a recommendation from someone on the street whose hair you admire. (Dude! Who cuts your hair?)

3) A change of products will be the next step. My favorite products for men’s long hair are Plump by Orlando Pita and the Voile Protecteur by Kerastase. If your hair is heavier use the Plump with the Creme uv Defence Active by kerastase.

4) Shampoo your hair less as it grows. If your hair has more natural oils, it will be easier to manage.

5) Hairstylists think, masculine, masculine, masculine. Guys, it’s up to you personally to support the masculine style.
(smile)

I look forward to seeing you on the streets with great hair. If all else fails, the next extreme is shaving your hair off.

Louis Vuitton


Hermes

Rick Owens

That too is on the runways. (been there done that!!)

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Wednesday, April 14, 2010

WHO WON SHEAR GENIUS??


Congratulations to Brig for winning shear genius. Seriously, it was not a personality contest. The show is called Shear Genius and she was just that. She never played it safe and always brought something new to the table, honestly as a hair stylist I know its very hard to achieve.

Congrats babe!!

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Monday, April 12, 2010

THE BEST IN MENS SHAVING CREAMS

THE SHAVING CREM DE LA CREM

Working in salons for the past 15 years, I’ve used many skincare lines and been exposed to many more. During those years, I have kept my eyes peeled for the latest and most affordable in men’s skincare. Guys, if you’re like me, you understand the importance of finding the best skincare at any cost.

Because I’ve never found a shaving product that actually made me look forward to shaving, I’ve decided to assume the role of human Guinea pig and do my own diligent research on the finest in shaving products. As with hair care, I can go both ways. Without further adieu, here are my recommendations – both organic and not so.


THE BEST SHAVING PRODUCTS FOR MEN


4VOO distinct man

$$$$

Men, the name says it all. This line is specifically made “4VOO(“for vous” – for you in French). This well packaged and luxuriously rich shaving cream offers a great shave with maximum hydration. Its ingredients (incl. Babassu, Birch Bark Extract) aid in softening the beard; allowing you to get closer to the skin with a faster shave.

I liked the masculine smell and I also recommend using the repairing aftershave balm, which is another plus with this line – its supporting products also offer great comfort and pleasure. This is what they had to say for themselves:

“4VOO ultimate shaving cream is the premier men’s shaving solution using only exclusive ingredients for ultimate results. Most shaving creams are laden with stearic acid, a thick, waxy substance that hinders the fluent shaving process. We believe waxing should be left for cars!”

Love it!


Alford & Hoff

$$$$

Talk about luxury skincare at a great price. This line impressed me in many ways with their shaving cream. I was used to layering two products for the best results and closest shave. With Alford & Hoff all I need is one product. The application was as usual, but once it was on the skin, you could most certainly feel the difference.

Being creamy, it left my skin feeling extremely hydrated (which is not the case with regular shaving creams or gels). I then gave it to my best friend who is of African heritage and thereby has a coarser hair texture. He shaves daily and struggles with a dry beard line. He was amazed by the performance of this product.

I decided to read some more about the product and its ingredients. The key ingredient it contains is Oat extract, which helps reduce redness and irritation caused by frequent shaving. To compliment this product, I would recommend the Serum which completes the feeling of healthy, hydrated skin.

Thanks Alford & Hoff!


GAIAskin naturals australia

$$$$

For men who are into natural/organic skincare, here is a treat for you. It’s a shaving gel that I personally enjoyed. I was impressed with the fact that it contains certified organic ingredients – Evening Primrose Oil, Wheat Germ Oil, Avocado Oil, Chamomile, and Aloe Vera. These ingredients made shaving a treat instead of a threat!

I actually used this product while I was vacationing in Tobago and it was excellent on my sun burnt skin. It left it feeling soothed. They provide a convenient Travel Kit with a face/body wash, face cream, face scrub and a shave gel. I loved them all! A little something good from down under.

Thanks guys!


DaCuore Natural Products

$$$$

DaCuore is yet another line that takes a natural approach while offering incredible results. I was in awe at how well the razor would glide across my skin. It’s fantastic on coarse hair and perfect for men who shave their heads with a blade. It leaves the face and scalp very soft.

Some of the key ingredients used are Avocado Oil, Coconut Oil, Honey and Tea Tree Oil. I also have to mention their Special Skin Salve – now this is a miracle product. Thanks Connecticut (where they are based) for your marvelous products “from the heart(da cuore in Italian).

Look forward to the best in men’s shampoos. I’ve made some incredible finds.


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Monday, March 29, 2010

SLANE & SLANE JEWELERY



I recently received a call from a new client who did extensive research for balayage. As with most of my new color clients, entering the phrase “BEST BALAYAGE IN NYC” brought them to my blog. [smile]

Anywho, after a brief consultation we jumped right into painting to our hearts delight while engaging in a deep conversation about the economy, food, fashion and babies (since she recently had one of her own).

Then we started speaking about Orlo and magazine covers. My client was so happy to announce that Gisele Bündchen is wearing her jewelry on the April cover of Vogue magazine.

I congratulated her and segued into a conversation regarding jewelry – one of my biggest obsessions. Here is more on my client’s business.


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Thursday, March 4, 2010

FOR THE PROFESSIONAL


Hairstylists I am happy to announce the latest addition to my work. I will now be writing for another blog on curlystylist.com , an educational site and community for Hairstylists. I look forward to hearing your thoughts on my many topics.

Antonio Gonzales

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Tuesday, March 2, 2010

WHO WATCHED SHEAR GENIUS?

There are two words to describe this episode and they’re “DRAMA BABY”!

First of all, the contestants were in full force like modern day super heroes ready to save the world from bad hair. This week, I couldn’t even keep up with the excitement and the challenges, so here it is in a nutshell. Or shall I say in a cutshell?

Overall, the episode kept me on the edge of my seat. You are guaranteed some “ooh’s and ah’s” with a little laughter here and there. The first challenge was all about recreating the look of a chosen flower while incorporating it into your model’s hair. And BABY, not everyone is a florist!

The guys and gals did their best, but the strongest in my opinion were Brian and Janine. But the judges chose April instead of Janine. However, Brian ultimately won fair and square with his creation. It was actually pretty clever. He temporarily changed the texture and color of his model’s hair and gave it more of a tribal feel. The flowers added also worked very well.

The judges said Adee’s floral do was the worst. You could not sell those flowers to anyone!

Then the second challenge required contestants to redo the hairdos of an assigned Bride’s Maid at an Indian Wedding and make them look spectacular. Now for those of you who don’t know, I grew up in a predominantly Indian village and watched many classical Indian movies as a kid. Consequently, I was excited to see this challenge.

Drum roll…Orlando Pita’s in the house.

(Orlando's work)


As he walked around you could see the contestant’s eager to show him their stuff. The best was Brian. I was so proud of him. He is really shining and coming forward. It looked clean, the extensions were blended well and the bride’s maid was gleaming. She looked very traditional.

The judges thought Adee was the worst. Think Annie on crack! I have seen so many hairstylists that are very talented hair cutters break down when it comes to styling hair. This was a classic example of “the bark is bigger than the bite”. So we bid adieu to Adee.

I look forward to the upcoming episodes to see who will be the next Shear Genius.


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