READER FROM MALAYSIA

I came across your blog online, and since then I've been hooked! I really like your advice and the pictures you put up, and I love the fact that you take your time and patience to explain stuff that the rest of us don't really understand (like baliage- did I spell that right?)

Anyway, here in Malaysia, I've never come across a hairstylist that knows their stuff as well as you do (the one stylist who did a decent job cutting my hair moved away and I haven't been able to find her since...) and if it's alright with you, I'd like to ask your advice. Back when I was young my school never let us have long hair- it had to be at most just touching our collars or the discipline teacher would come at us with a pair of kitchen scissors... you don't want to see what some of us went home with, trust me. So when I left the school, I started growing my hair and have had long hair for years now. I'm getting pretty sick of the romantic long-haired look so I've been thinking of going short, something edgier.

Trouble is, my face is kind of square shaped, with a wide jaw. I'd love a pixie cut but I'm afraid it'd make my face look even wider. And since my hair is a little wavy and very frizzy I'm worried it'll pouf up if I get a bob. I'm of Chinese descent, so I have naturally black hair, but I wouldn't mind dyeing it. (My hair in the second picture is dyed dark brown.) And I'm really low-maintenance so 10 minutes is the most I'd spend on my hair everyday (I oversleep most of the time and end up having to rush off to class). I'm really sorry to be so troublesome, but it'd be great if you could suggest a short style I could get... I'm so clueless at the moment. Thank you so much for your time! I would really appreciate your help, but if you don't have the time, I completely understand. I look forward to seeing more updates on your blog! =)
Lots of love,


ANTONIO

I am honored that you would write to me for advice. I will do my best to help you find the right look for you. Child you are beautiful!! Looking at the images that you sent I was able to see your different hair styles, color and the shape of your face. You were right your face shape will be considered to be on the square side. But let’s talk about your face a bit. Most women will kill to have your jaw line, and your eyes are to die for and of course that skin!! In other words we have an amazing palette to work with and it’s a matter of finding a shape style and color to suit your needs. That's my job and I'm happy to share all. On another note, what’s also cool is we are in different parts of the world and are connected by beauty. I'm actually sitting on my roof top watching the Hudson River and writing to you, so cool!!

Enough about me.

I would recommend the approach to be not about the length but about the shape and mood your stylist creates. It’s about not looking at hair long or short but as an accessory that compliments you. I would suggest you start by searching through past eras for inspiration to put together a mood. With that in mind remember we can’t change the shape of your face but we can change the shape of your hair.

POTENTIAL CUTS
The short cut may be a challenge not because of the shape of your face but because of the texture of your hair and you did mention not wanting to spend too much time styling.

HAIR BY ANTONIO


Long full bangs are also an option but it may make your jaw-line appear to be heavier than it really is, depending on how the bangs are cut.

HAIR BY ANTONIO


ANTONIO'S RECOMMENDATION ,


STEP 1)
I would first discuss the desired lengths which will be great about one and a half inches pass the collar. He or she should use scissors keeping a straight edge as opposed to a razor, leaving the ends textured. Then I would create a very shuttle A-line so that there is the option for movement because of it being shorter in the back and longer in front. Then this also gives a different shape from the profile. Also at this length it’s long enough to not look like an A-line Bob, but it is short enough to give a modern feel and will be very different from your current look in your photos.

STEP 2)
I would then move to the face framing before I cut layers. This is where the "mood" of the cut is created. Looking at the photos you sent me, I would start cutting angles around the face with a very delicate approach. Placing them against the cheek bones. Each layer that I cut framing the cheek bones will be longer than the one before. Doing this creates shorter pieces below the longer pieces which than creates movement and softness. When working with the hair around your jaw-line it’s important to know that your jaw-line is stronger and needs softening as well.

Step 3)
The over all layers could be shorter than usual. IMPORTANT- It’s important to gently remove bulk from this area as well but I would avoid thinning shears!! Removing the right amount of bulk with a razor you can have more movement without depending on too many layers. When cutting your hair I would pay attention to the layers above the ear. These should be short but not too short to avoid it looking too round.

Take these guide lines to your stylist and he or she should be able to use them to create a look for you that is modern and sexy with movement.

I wish you great hair,

Antonio