Henna Hair Color And Its Challanges.

Why is henna hair color so popular even though it’s a hair stylist’s biggest nightmare? Besides being cheap and easy to find, I find that many women think it’s a great alternative to chemical-based products. Henna is a vegetable-based hair color, which is used around the world by many different cultures. I recall my grandmother swearing by the powers of the all mighty henna. But remember, not everything natural is always good for you.

Here are some challenges to expect if you have henna-treated hair.

Inconsistent color results

The first time you use henna may produce great results.  But this hair color can be incredibly inconsistent. Over time, each application never resembles the first. Henna may have the capability to blend gray hair, but it becomes an overpowering stain on the hair.  It’s almost impossible to remove henna from hair without some serious product, time and slight damage to the hair. When a client walks in with years of henna product on their hair, we approach this as a "color correction."

Going lighter on henna-treated hair

If I have a new client that wants to go lighter and they have used henna on their hair…before even starting, I have to strip the henna using a strong color remover. After it’s removed I have to re-formulate the hair color by taking the root color and the faded henna on the ends into consideration. Even then, there is no way to know exactly how the new dye will react to the pre-lightened henna hair.

Going darker on henna-treated hair

If a client comes in and wants to go darker after having henna-treated hair, there is still no guarantee. I have to undergo the same process as above.

Red tones

Another major problem with henna are the ever present red tones. No matter what color you use, you will end up with reddish-brown tones

(which are never the intended result.) And when it fades you will look like someone slapped your head with a ketchup bottle!!

If you have used henna for a long time and want a drastic change, I recommend bringing loads of cash. It’s going to cost you.

Amazing how something so natural is such a pain in the ….?

Posted by Unknown at 7:49 AM - 0 comments

Do You Want Healthy, Shiny Hair?

The dependency on permanent hair color is like our national dependence on oil. It’s got to change! ;)

I'm determined to be one of those hair stylists who posts as many articles as I can on cellophane hair products. It's an unsung hero, as it doesn’t get the attention it deserves.  Cellophane is a semi-permanent hair glaze that adds shine and color tones to hair. It contains no ammonia or peroxide and is applied on clean, towel-dried hair. It adheres to the hair with the addition of heat. FYI…without heat, it will not hold.

Here are some FAQs on cellophanes…

What is a cellophane (i.e. color shines)?

This is a vegetable-based color dye, created by the famed salon, Sebastian over 17 years ago.

What is the purpose getting it done?

It gives great shine while adding a semi-permanent color that lasts up to 8-12 shampoos.

Does it contain ammonia or peroxide?

No it does not. It's a vegetable-based color that holds to the hair with the application of 20 minutes of heat.

Can it lift your natural hair color to make it lighter?

Because there's no ammonia or peroxide, it cannot lift your natural hair color.

Does it cover gray?

No. Because lacks ammonia or peroxide, it cannot cover gray. However, if you only have a few grays hairs and your hair texture is not too thick or coarse, some of the darker colors may stain them.

Is it good on highlighted hair?

It's great for highlighted hair! If you are a beige-blond and you're looking for a little pop of golden tone and shine, this is perfect for you. Also if you're a beige-blond and need to get rid of unwanted golden tones, the Pearl color with Clear is a great combination.

Does it protect or hurt hair?

It provides protection from sun, salt, chlorine, and product build-up.

Is it good for brunettes?

Amazing for brunettes!! The colors are rich and the sun picks up on the tones beautifully!

Can it be done on top of permanent color?

Yes. There are many shades of cellophanes that can be applied on top of your permanent hair color to help prevent fading. Finding the right tone to compliment your hair color is important. If you're a cool brunette and hate warmth, don’t choose a warm cellophane color.

Any additional questions or comments, please feel free to write me!

Antonio Gonzales

Posted by Unknown at 5:19 AM - 2 comments

Yesterdays Inoa Experience.

Since its relaunch, the reviews have markedly improved! INOA Ammonia-Free Hair Color by L’Oréal is slowly winning our hearts. In the past, people complained about the smell, the stinging and the burning sensation it caused.

Today I used INOA on a client with coarse salt and pepper roots. It was her first visit. The rest of her hair was pretty dark… think of level 1N, black.

After an initial consultation, we agreed that we would like to eventually (in the next 6 months) make her hair a little lighter. Todays focus though was on perfect coverage on the roots and avoid darkening the ends. My aim is to make her roots one shade lighter to start the gradual process of going lighter.

With INOA I always go a level lighter than the actual color I want, because it tends to cover darker. I choose to use a level 4N using volume 20, which I normally would not use, fearing it may be too light. I want to achieve 3N

(this photo of a 4N swatch looks lighter than the actual swatch)

After 35 minutes, I shampooed and towel-dried her hair. I then mixed a gloss using L’Oréal Dia color. I Clear and a squirt of Iced Milk Shake at 10 volume. I avoided the roots and applied the gloss to the rest of the hair.

As mentioned her ends were dark but as we professionals know, using the right gloss with the right volume of peroxide, we can sometimes achieve a lift in dark ends. Even if it's by a half shade…

I left the gloss on for 10 minutes before washing her hair. Remember that we were not trying to achieve lighter ends today, only bumping the opaque color on her ends.

As I started drying it was obvious that the coverage was accomplished. 

 

Here's what the client had to say...

“Antonio! After I walked out of the salon, a man yelled down the street at me, ‘I want to marry you!’ I’ve never had hair that made random men profess their undying love for me! No smell or stinging, can’t wait til our next appointment.”

I'll keep you posted as I continue testing INOA to see if it stands the test of time. Remember I'm not being paid to write this. ;)

Posted by Unknown at 7:17 AM - 0 comments