Double Processed Blond

I want to share with you a color scenario challenge that I encountered recently. A beautiful girl walked into the salon, wanting to fix her color. She’d been getting her hair dyed blond for sometime and had been happy… until now.

After her last color application, she was left with one inch of a very obvious gold band of color, which was 1/2 of an inch from the scalp. 

We decided to completely remove the gold band by doing a double process blond.

I wondered…was this the right approach?

A double process color is two applications of hair color. The first step is to use a lightner to lift the hair followed by a second step of adding an additional deposit of color.

We thought about doing highlights, but there would still be traces of gold on the hair (that could not be foiled). She was very clear, no gold band. However she wanted very light golden blond hair color.

Using 7 stage by Clairol, we first targeted the gold band. 

We then applied the same color to her root area. Separating the two applications is important, because one targets colored hair (gold band) while the second takes care of virgin hair (roots). At the end we toned it with a DiaColor, a demi permanent gloss that had beige tones 

followed with a conditioning treatment.

The results - we ended up with a buttery blond and the gold band was gone.

Check it out!

Posted by Unknown at 6:59 AM - 2 comments

The Difference Between A Gloss And A Glaze

I’ve heard from clients that they often get confused between a gloss and a glaze. One visit is for a gloss, the next, a glaze. Or sometimes the two are applied at the same time... So what’s the deal between the two? I did extensive research, read articles from fellow NYC stylists like Rita Marie and debated with my co-workers at Orlo Salon to inspire this article. Read on and learn the difference.

HAIR GLAZE
What comes to mind when I hear the word glaze is a shiny delicate surface, like that of a glazed cake. So, after my research, I was happy to learn that we agreed (other hairstylists) that a glaze is a temporary color that can add great shine to a virgin head of hair or color-treated hair. Some glazes have pigment added to boost any matching hair color. Whether it’s clear or colored, glazes add a safe, translucent coating to the hair shaft that washes off in 12-14 shampoos. Glazes contain no ammonia or peroxide, which means it does not have the ability to lift your natural color or open the cuticle to deposit color. It gently lays on the surface of the hair. Glazes will not cover gray hair. However, on someone with "a few gray hairs" it can add over all shine and a hint of a colored tone.

One of my favorite glazes is Colorshines by Sebastian (cellophanes). I have been using this product for over 20 years and I still love the results. This temporary gel-like substance comes in clear and a variety of colors that can compliment any brunette or blond. Keep in mind there are other glazes on the market but this is my favorite. I'm yet to be disappointed by this product.

GLOSS
When I think of a gloss, I think of car paint or nail polish, something stronger and longer lasting.

We also agreed (my fellow hairstylists) that a hair gloss is the stronger of the two. It contains peroxide and does have the ability to budge the cuticle depositing longer lasting color. If used with heat on virgin hair, some glosses will lift hair, changing the tone by a shade. (I have seen it with my own eyes.) When used on color-treated blond or brunette hair, it will add shine and enhance the existing tones, which can be a life saver a month after having your hair colored. Glosses can be clear or come in many different colors (more colors than glazes) and can last up to 3-4 weeks. They can be applied to dry or towel-dried hair and as mentioned, can be used with heat or no heat (like Wella Color Touch.)

One of my favorite glosses is Dia Color by L’Oreal. This can make a blond sparkle a month and a half after getting the color done, which means you can prolong your next visit to the salon for your full color application.

Keep in mind that glosses are a girl’s best friend (especially for blending gray hair) but it should be used when necessary and on hair that really needs it.

I wish you shine, shine, shine!!

Posted by Unknown at 7:18 AM - 0 comments