FOLLOWING THE TRENDS IN NYC

We have always known that fashion is an art form that has no barriers, and now we see that hair is following suit. Luckily for me, every single day I'm reminded that I live in the most fashion-forward city in the world. As I make my way to work from Brooklyn, I'm constantly inspired by the individual expressions of creativity I encounter—and no more so than in the ingenious, diverse hair styles all around me. Now more than ever, I see people both young and old re-creating popular hair trends from the '80s and '90s, but often adding great twists and fresh ideas to classic styles that have had a real impact on popular culture over the years—either positive or negative, depending on one's perspective.

One thing I've noticed is experimentation with hair color and extensions in fascinating ways. Whether a simple blond streak or a vivid and brightly colored extension, people on the street (and especially teenagers, notorious for always being on the forefront of cultural evolution), are making statements indicating that they're very much in touch with what's happening in the world of hair, the trends of today and yesterday that are lasting and significant.

LOOKS FROM TRENDSETTER ORLANDO PITA, 2010

Christian Dior

Derek Lam's Spring 2010 Runway Show

A GIRL FOLLOWING THE TRENDS
Here are two photos I took on impulse in my Brooklyn neighborhood near the subway, of a young lady who really caught my attention in unexpected ways—first with her outfit, but especially with her hair style. I loved the way she interpreted a popular current style by adding a unique twist and flavor with form and color. She was happy to tell me that she and her sister had created the look together.


OLD SCHOOL

NEW SCHOOL

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STEVE MEISEL. KRISTEN McMENAMY & ORLANDO PITA WORKING THEIR MAGIC!!

I'm so proud of this amazing shoot, great job Orlando!

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WHERE I WORK AND WHO I WORK FOR.

After fielding several emails from readers asking where I work, I decided to offer some insight into my world over the past 10 months. I would like to share with you a bit about the salon where I spend my days, and some of my experience so far. As I mentioned in previous posts, I've followed Orlando Pita's career for many years, dreaming of having a good long conversation with him about hair and his journey with it. One day I was doing online research to see what he was up to, and I came upon this article on the man and his salon by Karen Tina Harrison. An excerpt:

"Orlo is all about hair: No other services are offered, and its plain white space underscores the salon’s tight focus on the scalps and manes of the city’s fashion elite. Set in a Meatpacking District walk-up, the salon is owned by coiffeur Orlando Pita, who honed his reputation over decades of photo shoots."

Harrison describes the salon well, its focus being great hairdressing and efficient service in a studio-like environment. That short article provided me with all the information I needed to know; I was on the right track to finding a new home.

THE INTERVIEW
During my interview with Orlando, I was so nervous! You must understand, I fantasized of simply having a talk with him, but applying for a job at his salon was a little out of my league (or so I humbly thought). As we chatted about my career and professional goals he asked a key question: What was I looking for in applying for the position? My reply was simple: I know there is so much more to hair than I now realize, and I would love to widen the scope of my experience and learn all I can. He smiled and I knew he got my point.

THE PAST 10 MONTHS
As many of you can relate, their are so many layers to the creative aspect of our business, and it's very easy to become comfortable with what you know. Needless to say, the past 10 months have been the most challenging of my career, creatively. Not to say that the early years were not challenging; they most definitely were. The difference with this position was that although I was at my strongest point creatively, I was about to enter a new environment that would drastically change my experience with hair as I've known it thus far.

Let me explain. Throughout my career I've heard so much of 90 degrees, 45 degrees, traveling guidelines. I am very visual, so cutting by numbers just always struck me as odd. The flip side to this is that although being visual is an asset, there has to be a level of precision. So is it possible to have a very visual, relaxed approach to a haircut backed by very clean, precise technique? The answer is "yes" and I have spent the past 10 months adapting to this compromise. Hair-cutting as I know it has totally changed and this is no exaggeration.

The truth is, I can't explain it fully, nor can there be a DVD or even a website illustrating my point. It's a very personalized technique pertaining to the client's face shape, density and texture, and it's done with a razor on dry hair. At Orlo, Joe Martino has been guiding me into this new creative direction and has been generous with sharing what was taught to him by Orlando himself.
What I love most about training under Joe is that he understands my background in cutting wet hair with a razor and scissors; he knows how I think (or how I used to think, I should say). It's been exciting to witness my clients notice the big difference in their hair, and the resulting influx of new clients that are looking for something special that they hear I can provide.

HAIR BY JOE MARTINO

Another area that has been essential to my training is my experience working Fashion Week. It's really a whole other world. In the salon, styling hair is far more forgiving as it's softer, more flexible, and there are no cameras or bright lights. Conversely, during Fashion Week it's totally about efficiency, detail and the ability to hold fresh looks for the cameras. I recall working for the Carolina Herrera show: The look was a sleek finish (not pin-straight) and we were to rely solely on the brush. On finishing, I sized up my model and she looked great. Orlando then came by to coach me (it being my first show ever). Gentle as usual, he expressed satisfaction... right up until he separated the hair, that is. There it was—a small section that was not adequately polished. He kindly but firmly pointed out that every section of hair should be perfect, always. I took his advice to heart. Now, for every client I touch, I remember that moment and try my best to pay attention to the details. I have learned that this vital lesson—attention to detail—is what separates the men from the boys in our industry. : )

I'm sure many of you can relate to the idea that having your dream job can be an utterly rewarding experience, with a ripple effect touching every aspect of your life. Those of you who can't relate (at least not yet), keep working hard and one day you too will have the job you've always wanted. And that's a promise.


Antonio Gonzales

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"INOA OR NOT"

In my color career, hiding gray often meant utilizing ammonia-containing products for perfect coverage. There have been many attempts to manufacture a color treatment without this historically vital chemical, but no matter how great the claims were, the coverage really was never the same. Containing little or no ammonia, these products were thus gentler on the hair, but the results were invariably more of a "gray blending" effect rather than 100% coverage. For some clients this proved sufficient, while others opted for full coverage regardless of potential damage.

When INOA hair color hit the market earlier this year, there was a lot of publicity with claims of its ability to change hair color as we know it. The press it garnered was endless and both hairstylists and clients were waiting to see if the effect would back up all the buzz. Let me make this very clear: I do not use INOA. I will be addressing the topic from the research I have done for my clients and for hairstylists who have sent endless emails inquiring about this product. In my research, I've asked colleagues whom I've worked with in the past who have solid experience with INOA. Who better to ask than those actually using it, right?
A FACT
The one thing we know for sure is that it covers gray and is safe to use on damaged hair. But because I have an extensive color clientele of cool brunettes and beige blondes, I needed to know if I could use these product to satisfy my clients and meet their coloring needs completely and safely.


THE VISUALS
As I began, my research entailed perusing images that were used in magazines, online and in brochures. I noticed the images were quite beautiful, with gold/red tones and very golden blondes. I decided to locate videos as well and found the same—warm golden or red heads of shiny, lustrous hair. There's nothing like a shiny head of hair with sparkling warm tones, but try selling that to the client who hates anything to do with warm, red or gold tones. In a perfect world it would be ideal if all clients were unafraid of warm tones, but in reality, some women would rather go gray than have hair with obvious red tones. And as we know you can achieve shiny hair color using other color brands " if you don't mind ammonia".



So the question is: Can INOA achieve cool brunettes and blondes without warm tones?


CONVERSATIONS WITH OTHER COLORISTS
I asked several colorists working in salons that use INOA, and the feedback was uniform. Here's what a couple had to say:

"I'm still up and down with INOA. I think it's great for some clients (like those with very dry, overprocessed hair). In these cases, the hair looks and even feels amazing. I've never tried it on a blonde, though. I've seen one done by someone else and it was ehh.... Because you must emulsify the roots before rinsing, it's hard not to get the root color on the ends, and when doing a single process color on a blonde, this can be a problem. The results are a blonde that is too warm."

"I'm having a hard time getting blondes without golden tones. We're supposed to have a one-on-one with L'Oréal to learn how... I can't imagine that it's that complicated."

MORE RESEARCH
What I gathered from my research was that although INOA may be ammonia-free, gold tones are hard to avoid, especially with blonde hair. It's up to the client to decide which is more important: ammonia-free color or the absence of golden tones completely (either for a blonde or brunette).



WHY NOT USE INOA?
As soon as the product was launched I began receiving questions from clients as to whether or not I would be using it. I explained to them that when this product was made available, the only way to see its functionality was to attend one of the demos. As hairstylists we often get opportunities to observe and as you can imagine, observing is often not enough: I prefer to get my hands in there and see what the product can actually do without having to take someone else's word for it. Furthermore, in order to use INOA one must purchase the entire color line. Keep in mind that this is by no means cheap (with over 50 shades total). In this economy, a guarantee that INOA performs exactly as publicized is crucial. The best guarantee is for the stylists themselves to play with the product a little. Some may argue that in order to use any new color you must buy the entire line; this may be true, but other color lines aren't making the claims attributed to INOA.

Here's what another colleague said:

"We didn't take the full class. Just got a demo and while I think it's an interesting product, I don't want to invest in the full line. So I think for now we're not going to go with it but rather wait to see if it delivers."


I will continue to research this color line and bring you feedback as my colleagues share their experiences with me. At the end of the day it's wonderful to have an ammonia-free product, but only time will tell if INOA lives up to its promises. And if I start using it you will be the first to know.

Thanks for reading.
Antonio Gonzales

Posted by Unknown at 9:29 AM - 16 comments

ORLANDO PITA IN PARIS

Returning to work after the Fourth of July weekend, I must admit I was a little beat and needed a zap to get me back in the swing of things. Luckily I have a boss who's out there setting trends and always feeding me great inspiration. Stay tuned for up-to-date inspirations from Orlando and welcome to Dior couture!







I cant wait to see Orlando to ask him how he created those looks, who knows you could be next!!

Antonio

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ORLANDO'S HAIR POWDER IN THE NEW YORK TIMES

I saw this article in the New York Times yesterday and I was inspired to follow up with one of my old articles on hair powders. The difference is as a hairstylist I do my testing on what works for my clients. Here it is!

TO THE POWDER ROOM

Feeling “not so fresh” the day after your blow dry? Oily scalp getting you down? Is being limp irritating you? We all have those days, don’t we?

Hair stylists such as myself have told you that hair powders are the answer. They help save your three-day blowout by lifting oils from the scalp. They help give body to ladies with fine hair and they can even blend your color if unwanted grays have grown in.

Well, would you like to know what the main differences between the best hair powders on the market are? I would. That’s why I’m here darlings; to put hair products to the test for you and only you.

After trying many different hair powders while performing salon services and freelance , I’ve narrowed it down to 2 with results that will benefit you.

The first is by Bumble and bumble. I’m a huge fan of this line and have used their products for years. I’ve written about them, talked on the radio about them and used them during my photo shoots. Their powders come in 5 different colors in aerosol cans. I’ve been using them for quite some time and my clients approve.

The second is new to me and is by Orlando Pita in the T3 line. It contains three colors and claims to produce comparable results. Over a period of time I have used them both and am prepared to share my thoughts with you now.

First, I took two pieces of white paper and sprayed them with a can of hair powder from each line.

Bumble and bumble- This product adhered to the paper nicely, but no matter how much I sprayed it never accumulated to be as powder-like . When I ran my finger across the paper, it barely moved from the paper.

T3- After a few minutes of spraying this product, it quickly dried and turned into a powder. When I say “powder”, I mean it was as if though I was almost touching loose powder. I could actually rub my fingers together and it would crumble.

I then tried them on clients…

Bumble and bumble- Their blondish was dark on white paper and on the client’s roots I found that it was not versatile enough for different shades of blond. The red was great, the black was black and I did like the brown.

T3- The colors are true to their names. Their light blond is exactly that; on white paper it was a pretty shade and covered it well. Because of its consistency, I was able to spray a little for a lighter blond and more for a deeper blond. The auburn is a true auburn. The coverage was flawless, especially on the re-growth of gray hair. You can actually save money on your single process by applying this on your gray roots. This will allow you to stay away from the salon longer.

The true test here is application. These have to be easy enough for the client to use, which is my main concern. Clearly T3 was the easiest because of its consistency. Ultimately, it’s a hair powder and it should feel like powder no matter what.

Orlando at Derek Lam

Here are two tips on using both Hair powders.

TIPS ON APPLYING BOTH PRODUCTS FOR OILY ROOTS

Shake the can well. Lift the root area and lightly apply hair powder. Work section by section and apply more if needed. If you feel that there is too much in one section, use your blow dryer to remove excess product.

TIPS ON APPLYING BOTH PRODUCTS FOR COVERING GRAY RE-GROWTH

Try spraying the powder on a sponge tip applicator or makeup brush and apply to the gray hair while trying to avoid the scalp. It will eventually get on the scalp on its own which is fine.

Please try both powders and see which is best for you.

Antonio

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A DESTINATION WEDDING

When my client (and friend), Leah, asked if I would do her hair for her destination wedding in St Martin, I couldn’t help but yell yes before she was finished asking. Not only was I fond of Leah, I was so happy that she found her match and honored to be included in celebrating their special day in the Caribbean. I had never visited the island of St. Martin but I had been to other Caribbean islands to work for other weddings (St. Johns, St Thomas and St Kitts). Coming from Trinidad and Tobago, I'm always excited to see how my West Indian brothers and sisters live.
With bags packed and bridal kit in tow I was off to the airport. As the plane landed in St Martin, I was amazed by the crystal clear blue waters and the amazing landscape. I rushed off the plane to be greeted by smiling faces and a very courteous taxi driver. For a second, I thought it was a bit early for these people to be hitting the cocktails, but these were genuinely happy people. No rum needed (not at least until later anyway). As we drove through the Dutch side of the island to get to the French side, everything seemed very familiar. The architecture, hills and people waving at the taxi was all like scenes I had experienced before. As we approached the hotel, I was happy to see that it looked just as the images did on the website. It was beautiful indeed.
The greeting from the reception was slow and sweet. You had no choice but to slow down and embrace the smiling faces and sip a Rum Punch (fruit punch in my case). From the first night, I knew this was certainly worth writing about and wanted to share with all of you future brides-to-be this magical place and all the people who made it possible.

THE HAIR
The bride was very clear on what she wanted and it was important that she looked like who she is today, not an idea that she had when she was 10 years old. In other words, there would be no Cinderella hair.
WEDDING PLANNER
Engel Baron Events totally pulled this important day together with out a single problem. They arranged the flowers and even went to the flower shop when the flowers arrived by boat to make certain that it was exactly what the bride wanted. They also sent us off on a boat trip to a small island and took care of all of the details from pulling the entire wedding party together at 9am and getting us all on our designated boats.

It even seemed like they made a deal with the rain gods to stop the previous two days of rain providing us perfect weather for the day of the wedding.
Great job guys!

PHOTOGRAPHER
Talk about a talented hard working team. I've had my full share of destination weddings and these guys were amazing with beautiful images to show for it. Rain or shine they loved capturing images of Leah's special day and it showed.

RADISSON HOTEL ST MARTIN
I was then sent the information for the Hotel where the wedding would be held and where we stayed and instantly started doing my research. The Hotel was the Radisson in the French side of St Martin and online it looked beautiful. Whoever designed this hotel deserves a pat on the shoulder. Talk about a job well done. The rooms were spacious and modern with colors that were easy on the eye.
The grounds were full of flowers that were well pruned and the staff was as warm as my island people could get. I visited the beautiful hotel spa and spoke to Estelle Germain who was in charge. She gave me a tour and we discussed all the services they offered. From Indian to Thai massages and a full manicure and pedicure salon, they even brought in hairstylists to help with the family of the bride and groom. In a nut shell (or sea shell) the hotel was fully equipped and if they did not have something, they made it happen without a hassle.



I LOVE ST MARTIN!!

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WHATS HOT FOR TODAYS WOMAN

Minding my own business on the Q Train last week I noticed something interesting. Three girls were sporting the same hair do. All three of these girls were actually of different ethnicity which I thought was really cool. The look was longer hair with waves starting around the cheekbone area and gently falling around the face to the ends.

How sweet (I thought to myself) all these sisters are working the same look. It’s a look that's really easy to re-create but my only concern is that it’s already being over used on reality shows. Can I bear seeing every woman of all ages wearing it in NYC as well? It got me thinking so I started doing my research. When did this look go mainstream?

Well to my surprise as I looked through countless styles over the years it brought me to this image which was done by Orlando Pita in 1997.

Three years later Orlando Pita did Madonna for her music album and did these gorgeous waves that really matched her country and western style.

It seems like this style has changed a bit and has since changed size curl while becoming a little more coiffed (this look is too done for my liking).

Since then following the feel of longer sexy hair, we created the following looks for Fashion week (with much guidance and help from Orlando) for Osca de Larenta's fall collection which was reminiscent of Farah Fawcett meets Dynasty.


The same week we worked on the Diane Von Furstenberg fall show giving a more textured messy feel that was still sexy. Orlando's words were "no tight curls please!" (we all smiled).



One week after my Q train experience I'm at the salon and noticed a version of these two looks that pushed the limit with texture and sex appeal. And to my surprise guess who styled the hair? Orlando (smile). So now, a look that may have startedover ten years ago is being re-vamped and its sexier than ever!


TIP
Ladies its all about texture. Try braiding your hair when you go to bed, in the morning take pieces of hair and style with your iron as usual. In other words, messier is better. Or you can even do your hair the night before with the curling iron and sleep on it, and before you leave home use some Elevate by Orlando Pita to give your hair that texture that only the beach and a good roll in the hay can give (without the salt or the straw). Even braiding the hair in smaller sections and going over it with a flat iron can create the illusion of a messier slept in texture.

I wish you all messy sexy hair this summer!

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THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN A GLAZE AND A GLOSS

Throughout my career, I have heard these two words thrown around like rag dolls by a five year old. Now, it's time to know the difference. I did extensive research and read many articles from fellow NYC stylists like Rita ,Marie and my co-workers at the Orlo salon to inspire this article.

THE HAIR GLAZE
What comes to mind when I hear the word glaze is a shiny delicate surface, like that of a glazed cake.

So, after my research, I was happy to know that we all agreed (some hairstylists) that a glaze is a temporary color that can add great shine to a virgin head of hair or color treated hair. Some glazes have pigment added to boost any matching hair color. Weather it’s clear or colored, glazes add a safe translucent coating to the hair shaft that washes off in 12-14 shampoos. Glazes contain no ammonia or peroxide which means it does not have the ability to lift your natural color or open the cuticle to deposit color. It gently lays on the surface of the hair. Glazes will not cover gray hair, not even a few. However, on someone with "a few gray hairs" it can add over all shine and a hint of a colored tone.

One of my favorite glazes is Color Shines by Sebastian (cellophane's). I have been using this product for over 16 years and I still love the results. This temporary gel like substance comes in clear and a variety of colors that can compliment any brunette or blond. Keep in mind there are other glazes on the market but this is my favorite, I'm yet to be disappointed by this product.

To use on virgin hair, I first I shampoo the hair with a clarifying shampoo to remove all product residue. I then towel dry well and apply from roots through the ends. I place a plastic cap and sit the client under heat for 20 minutes. After the 20 minutes allow to cool for 5 minute and rinse well.

TIP
Use an old school hooded dryer. I prefer the results compared to a Roller ball or a Climazone. The heat and strong flow of air from the hooded dryer works better for me.

Do not shampoo. Rinse well with cool water (7-10 minutes) and condition only.

If using colored glaze wear gloves, apply protective cream to the hair line and avoid the scalp because this baby stains the skin.

THE GLOSS
When I think of a gloss, I think of car paint or nail polish, something stronger and longer lasting.

We also agreed (my fellow hairstylists) that a hair gloss is the stronger of the two. It contains peroxide and does have the ability to budge the cuticle depositing longer lasting color. If used with heat on virgin hair some glosses will give lift to the hair changing the tone by a shade (I have seen it with my own eyes). When used on color treated blond or brunette hair, it will add shine and enhance the existing tones in the hair which can be a life saver a month after having your hair colored. Glosses can be clear or come in many different colors (more colors than glazes) and can last up to 3-4 weeks. They can be applied to dry or towel dried hair and as mentioned, can be used with heat or no heat (like color touch by Wella)

One of my favorite glosses is Dia Color by L’Oreal. This can make a blond sparkle a month and a half after getting the color done, which means you and prolong your next visit to the salon for your full color application.

TIP
1) If you have virgin hair in need of shine but sensitive to chemical or the slightest change in the texture or tone of your hair, I highly recommend using a glaze. Do not take any chances with the lowest volume peroxide in a gloss. It’s better to be safe than sorry baby!

2) If your hair is damaged and you have a choice between either a Gloss or a Glaze, I highly recommend a glaze. Even the lowest volume peroxide can make a bad situation worse.

3) When sitting at the shampoo bowl after having your color rinsed and an assistant or stylist is about to apply that final product for "shine" Ask weather or not if it has peroxide and if so, must it be used. Sometimes the healthier alternative could make your hair love you more.

Keep in mind that Glosses are a girl’s best friend (especially for blending gray hair) but it should be used when necessary and on hair that really needs it.

I wish you shine, shine, shine!!

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MY NEW WEBSITE

I'm really excited to share with you my new "coming soon" page for my improved website. When it’s completed, I will be offering a variety of helpful links for my clients and readers. From a Podcast to a large detailed picture gallery of my work as well as links to my on going writing for other web sites will all be featured. I spent some serious time with Benjamin pulling this together and I'm very happy with the results.

Thanks Benjamin!

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