GOING FROM GOLDWELL 4NN TO A LIGHTER COLOR

READER

Hi Antonio,
I love all of your blogs. When planning my next trip to NY, I would love an appointment. For now, my hair is dark brown and the gray is coming in fast. I am having to touch up every 3 to 4 weeks. My natural color is between a 4 and 5. Recently for lack of trying I have been covering gray with 4NN. For summer, I would love a beautiful chocolate formula that has depth to it. I recognize without seeing my natural color, this is not the perfect situation, but imagine 4NN all over and you've got it. Again, thank you. I know you are terribly busy so any help is SOOOOO appreciated!!!




ANTONIO

Thank you for visiting the blog and for your compliments! It’s my pleasure :) I too think that you should be a Chocolate brown for the summer and here's are three ways to get you there.

YOUR NEXT VISIT

4NN is dark child!!

So let’s move you gradually to a lighter color like 5NN and 20 volume peroxide.

You will still get the gray coverage because of the NN (more pigment) and you will be one shade lighter. I know this does not sound like a lot lighter but this is a subtle approach.

Their are several ways to approach this situation. The first is allowing the hair to fade and continue having root touch ups and no color on the ends, this will allow you to have the lighter color you are dreaming of in the healthiest way. It may take a little longer though.
TIP FOR YOUR STYLIST


The next time you have your color done, have them apply the color on the roots and always leave the hairline for last. The color that is mixed for the hairline will be a little lighter than the color of the rest of the root area. The hair on the hairline is fine and grabs color faster than the rest of the hair, that's why we see some brunettes with a beautiful hair color but the hair line is sometimes super dark. So make the request, you would be so happy with the change.


THE APPLICATION

Now listen carefully! When we say the root I mean the new growth and nothing else. The slightest over lapping of the color on the previously colored hair is a recipe for a disaster. You will be surprised how much of a difference it makes to have your color applied properly. So if you're using 5NN for the root area apply then mix 1/2 5NN and a 1/2 6NN for the hairline with 20 volume. Allow to process for the full time.

THE WASH

Just before washing the color off have the stylist apply handfuls of conditioner to the dry ends of your hair. This will protect the ends of your hair when rinsing by not making it too dark from the root color. No matter how fast they think they can rinse the color it is never fast enough to avoid the ends getting too dark. Then continue the same process till you can see the ends fading enough.

OR

Have the root color done with the same formula as above. While this is processing paint highlights thought your hair to help counteract the darkness on the ends with lightener and 20 volume. We don't want it too light just about 2 shades lighter. Again put conditioner on the ends even over the highlights , wash and towel dry well. To glaze the ends I would use a level 6.0 or 6N demi-permanent color to bring it all together. Most demi-permanent color always grab a little richer (darker) so the level
is safe.

OR

I would color the roots with 5NN then apply conditioner on the ends before rinsing. Follow by a clear demi;permanent color. There are many demi-permanent color lines. Depending on what demi-permanent color line they use, I would use a clear with 20 volume under heat for 15 minutes. This will allow the dark ends to release some of the color. Some of my clear demi-permanent favorites are Clear by Dia Color Loreal,

0 by color wear

and 0,00 by Color Touch.

After rinsing, towel dry and get ready for the final step. Follow by using a level 6 demi-permanent color from roots to ends for 15 minutes. The reason you will use the level 6.0 as the final step is because when you use the clear with heat It may lift a little warm(red), using the 6.0 brings it all together nicely.

I hope this was helpful, please feel free to print it and take it to your hair dresser. He or she will understand it really well.

I wish you great hair,

Antonio