Thursday, November 27, 2008

BIG HAIR BY AFG


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Tuesday, November 25, 2008

HAIR MYTHS

As we have all heard, there are countless opinions on hair, hair growth, hair loss and tools for styling your hair. Here are a few of those and my views on them. I hope this to be informative and to clear the air on any doubts you may have.

1) Flatirons are bad for your hair.

In the hands of a skilled stylist, flatirons are fine. I love using them. You must always do a proper blow dry. Then apply some heat protection product. Work on thin sections of hair at a time and take your time. The idea is for the style to last longer. The problem comes when you try doing daily touch ups, which are very bad for your hair.



2) Never pluck your grey hair more will follow faster.

Honey I don't think so. I just started getting them and I have declared war on those suckers.

3) Use heat on your highlights.

If your hair color is black virgin hair then a little heat won't hurt it. Everyone else! A little patience and you will get the color you want without the damage heat can cause your hair.



4) You should never shampoo every day.

True, but I just do not feel clean and fresh if I don't shampoo my hair. Instead of shampooing your hair every day, try rinsing your hair and using a light conditioner in between days when you shampoo.


5) The razor is bad for your hair.

If the razor is in the hands of some razor toting, razor happy sicko, then I would agree. In the hands of a skilled stylist, however, the razor is an amazing tool that changes lives, literally!!




6) The bigger the hair, the closer to god?

Well, Lady Bunny and Ru paul must be a saints!





7) Balding is not sexy.

Who you talking bout Willis? What is not sexy is a man who tries to overcompensate for balding.

8) You must have dirty hair to apply hair color

Wrong! My darling Eva Scrivo taught me well and that statement we have proven wrong many times over. It is like painting a dirty wall. The coverage is poor and so is the out come.

9) Foils are better than Baliage.

They are both great. It depends on your hair type and color which one is best to use. Before using Baliage on your hair, make sure your stylist is trained and knows what they are doing.

10) Perms are out.

I did a perm on a young lady last week and she looked fantastic.

11) Drug store products are all bad.

Darling, please don't listen to the lies. Some products found in drug stores are not only economical, they also work really well and are great for your hair.

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Sunday, November 23, 2008

HAIR BY ANTONIO


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Saturday, November 22, 2008

LADIES YOU MUST READ THIS!!


Is your man's hair getting you down? Do you feel a little defeated by his old hairdo? Do you think he needs to be a little, refreshed? Well, have I got the solution for you? Yes, I do! In addition to a new ‘do, a new hairdresser may do the trick.

Ladies, I too have dated that special someone in the past with the hairdo from hell. Can you imagine how hard it is for me as a hairstylist to walk around with someone who sports a back-to-front mullet!? Can you feel my pain? In some cases, especially in a new relationship, you may not want to rock the boat too soon. But there are also the long-term relationships, which is when you can be downright honest. Either way, here are a couple of winning lines and tactics to get the boys on the right track:

1) “Honey, I saw this guy at work today and his hair looked so good. He had hair like yours. Should we find out who does his styling?”

2) “I saw my stylist cut this guy’s hair today, You should try him. He is great with men's hair.”

3) “Munchkins, how long have you had that haircut?” (Then, follow with silence.)

4) General rule: Find a celebrity (a good-looking one) who he looks like and mention the similarity, particularly the hair.

5) Get him a gift certificate for a good salon. Men love surprises too.

6) Accidentally pour a can of paint over his head. He will have to get all of it cut off. (I’m just kidding, you crazy girl.)

7) Visit his current hair dresser down some dark alley and pay him or her off to leave town. (This time, I’m serious.)


The above was outlined for beginners. For those of you who know your man well enough, do as follows:

YOU:

Honey, you know I care about your appearance as you do mine. I really feel that it’s time for you to start seeing someone new for your haircut. I know you can look so much better.

HIM:

But, I have been going to the same person for so long, I would feel so guilty.

YOU:

I know, honey. Let’s do what I did with my stylist when I dumped him: I sent a card with some chocolates thanking him for his years of service, and it was all fine. (Then, smile and count to 10)


Child, if that fails, you need to hire a hit man. (Again, I’m just kidding. Don’t you dare spend that hairstyle money on a thug!)

Girls, for more boyfriend tips, have a look at my advice for men @ http://www.ugo.com/lifestyle/hair-stuff-for-tough-guys/

Cheers!

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

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Wednesday, November 19, 2008

DO YOU NEED BLOND REHAB?

Today I was asked a question about blonds from a client who is a brunette and it really had me thinking for a while. The question was why are there so many bad blond colors walking around? She quickly presented an answer, her sister has brassy blond hair and it's because she does not have the money to spend on her hair. I thought about her comment and her sister's crisis for a while and this prompted me to write down my thoughts for you.

WHAT IS TOO CHEAP FOR HIGH LIGHTS?

I feel that $100 is too little to get great results, especially in New York City. Don't get me wrong. There are many talented hair stylists at lower price points, but finding the right one can be challenging. To get great blond color, it takes quality product, skill and time. I am a foil man I love to foil. I love working with Wella's Blonder Bleach, I find it lifts the color gently, while it conditions your hair. I baliage with Loreal's Platinum. Why? It is simply the best product on the market!! If your stylist is not properly skilled, they may not be aware they are cutting corners with inferior products which can dramatically affect the desired result. There are so many tricks of the trade to the perfect blond color and it takes a skillful eye to do the job right. The perfect blond is time consuming but Rome was not built in a day. Be patient and you will find it will be worth the wait. Sometimes it takes a full head of foils or baliage and then a glaze to blend in the roots. If your stylist is a perfectionist like me, they will add a separate glaze for the ends. This process requires me to be present for the entire time to make sure the color is applied properly. Highlights can range in price from $100 to a $1000, but there are many price points in between. Take the time to find the right stylist and make sure during your search you ask the right questions.

HOW DO YOU KNOW IF YOU NEED BLOND REHAB?

1) If you look at your blond hair and you see too many tones from beige, light golden, brown low lites and those frosty bits chances are you are sporting a rainbow blond.

2) Orange roots are the tell tale sign of a blond who needs some loving from her colorist. There are so many reasons why roots are a problem for colorists (Even I have had my share). The product and technique you choose to soften the base color will depend on how dark your roots are and the blond you desire. There are many techniques and color brands so find a colorist who is diverse and can offer you options. Some of my favorite recipes are Goldwell, 10A with Pmix and 10 volume, Loreal Dia Color Light Beige with a squirt of Light Golden Blond, Wella Color Touch 10/01 with 10/03, Wella Koleston Perfect 12/01 with 4% peroxide and Alfaparf Color Wear 10/31.


THE SHADE

When having your consultation, be clear on the shade of blond you are seeking. If you are unsure, ask your stylist to help you decide on what would be the best shade for your skin tone. Ask to see the color book and look at some swatches to help you find the right color. There are so many colors of blond used in the salon. Here are a few; cognac, light golden, wheat, ash, caramel, just to name a few.

SKIN TONES


For me, the general rule in choosing the right blond for your skin tone is if you have too much red in your skin then you may want to stay away from gold tones so it won’t highlight the redness in your skin. In this case you may want to work with more beige tones. But this does not mean you are limited to a flat beige tone. You can have a beige glaze mixed with some gold tones just to add a little kick. It’s about finding the fine line between being the right beige-gold mix with out being too beige or too gold. If your skin tone is very pale, you can have multi golden tones with high lights and low lights.

I hope with the tips I have pointed out you are able to get a better sense of knowing when you need to check your self into Blond Rehab.

I wish you great hair!

AFG
Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

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ANTONIO ON ABOUT.COM



Here is a recent article that I wrote on abou .com Enjoy and I wish you great hair.

http://beauty.about.com/od/haircol2/a/redhairtips.htm


AFG

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Sunday, November 16, 2008

MY PICK OF THE WEEK AFG APPROVED


Photography- www.rileyandrileyphoto.com

HAIR DRYER RECOMMENDATION

There are so many hair dryers on the market that I thought I should share with you one of my all time favorites. The T3 feather weight hair dryer by Bespoke Labs is by far the lightest hair dryer I have ever used. Not only is it the lightest dryer, it is made with genuine tourmaline-infused components to add great shine and protection to the hair.
Turn it on and you'll hear and feel the difference. Its soothing blast of ionic far infrared heat penetrates the follicle shaft to break down molecules of water while sealing the shaft to seal oils inside. Another advantage is it dries your hair in 60% less time. We like that! My favorite part of this hair drier is that the nozzle turns. How great is that? No more burning your hands and it makes it easy to blow dry the back of your head with out having to wish of having an extra pair of hands.

AFG

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Friday, November 14, 2008

MEN'S FASHION ADVICE FROM ANTONIO GONZALES


I am a firm believer in " judging the book by its cover" and " first
impression is a lasting impression", so when its comes to dressing I
have fun and like to challenge the ordinary.

MANY WAYS TO WEAR A TUXEDO

The Idea of only wearing a Tuxedo to a formal occasion is just simply
boring, if you pull apart what makes up a tuxedo ( jacket,shirt
cummerbund,trousers) you will realise that it can all be worn at
different times for any occasion. First I must be clear on the type
of tuxedo, I am not talking about the rental box cut tuxedo that's
cut to fit the Egor, that thing always looks like you borrowed it from
your great grandfather and lets not talk about the shoes, those glossy
shoe boxes they call shoes, hells no!!
I'm talking about a tuxedo from J.Lindenburg for example (and other
designers as well). They have added great flair to the traditional
look by making the pant leg far more fitted than usual and adding more
of a casual approach to the shirts which allows you to wear the shirt
with other black pants or even jeans. I wear my tuxedo pants with
black boots and a v-neck t-shirt all the time, this allows me to look
smart and comfortable. For boots designers like Florentine + Baker,
Prada and Poste are a great match. Especially F+B they make shoes that
are handsome (or sexy depending on the man) and are durable, its an
investment but its worth it.


I am very lucky to work in an industry where I am allowed to not only
express myself through hair but also fashion. After many years on
the salon world in Trinidad, Germany, Los Angeles and now New York I
quickly recognised that their is a fine line between trendy and tacky
when it comes to hair salon fashion, so when I had the opportunity to
create a dress code I was excited to have a no jeans policy and allow
a dress to kill sort of dress code (love jeans but we all wear them differently).

Remember there is a fine line between trendy and tacky so be aware.

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ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ON MEN"S HAIR



My first guy is an artist so a haircut that's on the messy side and still easy to dress up for clients would be ideal. He also has extremely thick hair so I chose to razor cut to help remove bulk while keeping a masculine shape. I started the cut on wet hair, then dried it and cut some more. For this hair type and look, I recommend always towel-drying well before applying product. When styling use a paste that's soft enough to spread through the hair easily without leaving white clumps that look like bird poop. To apply spread product in your hands then apply evenly through the roots to the ends of your hair, starting at the back, then sides (even behind the ear) then moving forward to the front. Never style with the palm of your hands, only with the finger tips. The Shape paste by Shu Uemura is an ideal product to use. As with any hair type you don't have to shampoo every day - maybe you can skip one day and just rinse and condition instead.


http://www.shuuemura-usa.com/Content/ArtOfHair.aspx

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ALL YOU NEED TO KNOW ON MEN"S HAIR




This guys hair is straighter in the back and curlier on the top and sides so a 15 minute haircut would be a bad idea. I cut the back wet and the top and sides dry. His cut is almost even all over with some texturizing. The choice of product is The shaper wax by Sebastian. Again towel dry hair well and apply. The top can be worn forward or spiked up. No, not that spiky front thing that some dudes are still sporting thinking that are impressing the girls (actually its kinda depressing)

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Friday, November 7, 2008

BEST HAIR CUT IN NYC

I was voted the best hair cut by sheckys.com, a New York Nightlife web site, on their 2008 best
awards. Thanks to all of my clients and friends who have supported me and helped shape my career. Please have a look and share with friends.
http://sheckys.com/bestbeauty/2008/product-detail.asp?pid=259&ct=SERVICES

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Wednesday, November 5, 2008

HAIR HELP FOR TODAY 11/05/08

NO MORE TIGER STRIPES

Today’s HH is from a client who asked a great question I see is a daily challenge for so many women I see as I walk around NY. Her hair was a bout 4 inches long and medium brown with mousy brown tone to it. Her previous stylist would generally use only foil to color her hair. As she started becoming grey she really enjoyed the lightness because it helped blend in her grey hairs. When she started becoming too blond they started doing low lights which was the perfect answer. The only problem was at times she would look like she had stripes of color or her color would look a little planned. Don't get me wrong she did not hate her hair but wanted to know if there was a way to get her hair to look a little more natural without the stripes.

I decide to baliage her hair and the first words that came out of her mouth were, “WHY BALIAGE INSTEAD OF FOILS?”

I choose baliage because, when the hair is short and you use foils, you are limited with the different colors that can be used in the single foil (like in this client's case) but with baliage you can takes pieces of hair as you go around the head and place color where you need it. This creates a blending of color in the same row instead on a row of dark and a row of light which after a while looks a little like it was done with one of those old time frosting caps. Using the baliage technique I can also take small and big pieces of hair to color and I can get very close to the hair line to get flawless color.

DOES IT TAKE LONGER?

The answer to that depends on how short the hair is. If your hair is super short instead of painting with a brush I sometimes use a mascara wand. The idea is to have the hair look soft, natural and more sophisticated rather than too spotty like a leopard’s coat (and I am not talking about no real leopard either!)

IS BALIAGE BAD FOR YOUR HAIR?

Not at all but the process does depend on who is behind the chair. The number one mistake made with baliage is not using enough product so the color does not lift enough and ends up being brassy which is generally not the desired color. The number two mistake is using too much heat. I feel that heat plus bleach can equal breakage. There are clients whose hair I cut but they have their color done some where else. I sometimes suggest they ask their colorist to not use heat. Bleach, if applied well, will do the job so be patient.


I am a definite foil man. I am a firm believer that there is a foil woman and a baliage woman and believe me when I say that these are two very different people. There are times when one can be converted to the other like with this client and it can be life changing. And there are times when I leave things as they are. If it’s not broken why fix it, right?
Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

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HUMAN HAIR WIGS

CONVERSATION ON THE HUMAN HAIR WIG

There are so many types of human hair wigs on the market. Some have regular fabric meshes and some of the newer ones have a fine lace base that is so undetectable. Some range from $600 to thousands of dollars. If there is someone who needs a hair wig for any reason, I am here to give you some guidance.

Be very careful when you start looking for a human hair wig, their are many bad wigs on the market that are not worth the price. Start your research before you even leave your home. The Internet is now your best friend offering a world of information on the right wig for you.

The advantages on good human hair wigs are:

A) Depending on the wig you purchase, the hair can look more natural.

B) A good human hair wig can be washed and styled easily.

C) You can use heat on them without the threat of the hair sticking to your curling iron.

D) The base of the hair comes in many different fabrics, some of which are so thin that your scalp can breathe.

E) If you find a wig you love but you are unhappy with the color, you can have it changed with a few highlights and lowlights to suit your skin tone.

F) They are much easier to cut! Synthetic wigs are often so difficult to cut that you are forced to resort to a weed whacker.

G) Some of the natural hair wigs, like the one in the next photo, have a lace base and can be taped to the scalp. It can be left on your head for days and is also easy to remove.

Here is one of my creations with a human hair wig, I hope you like.

AFG
Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved



Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved


Makeup by Frank Kammerer - Eva Scrivo.com
Photography- www.rileyandrileyphoto.com

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GUEST WRITER SLK

Before Botox

My good friend, Darren, and I were having one of our two martini lunches at Gotham on East 12th Street, a favorite martini lunch spot in New York. As with any martini infested lunch between friends, the subject turned to other friends and although I try not to repeat gossip, I am more than willing to listen. After the first martini, Darren informed me that our mutual friend had begun Botox. Being the inquisitive person that I am, especially when someone’s appearance is at stake, I asked how he looked. Darren rolled his eyes, took a final sip of his martini and indicated he was looking very plastic. Personally, I have not been too eager to indulge in the Botox craze mainly because I love having the ability to raise the corners of my eyebrows to frighten off unwanted suitors. (It can be very effective.) Now, I have seen many people whose faces look measurably improved by using Botox without the plastic look so I am not ruling it out completely. I have decided that, for the time being, a healthier route of youth preservation is the best course for me. I have always been a firm believer that whatever you do to enhance your looks, be it hair color, preserving youth, makeup, teeth whitening or even plastic surgery, you should strive to look as natural as possible.

The thought of removing lines and wrinkles is appealing, however, so when Antonio suggested I speak with Shelly Goldsmith at Eva Scrivo Salon (212-677-7315) about her acufacials, which uses acupuncture to create a more youthful appearance, I was eager to explore the possibility. During my consultation, Shelly explained the art of Chinese medicine which works with your body’s flow of energy to alleviate ailments. She was able to answer all of my questions as well as alleviate any fears I had about needles sticking in my body. She explained that the procedure would help soften some of the wrinkles and lines on my face. She also was clear about lines that could be removed completely and those that could only be softened. She also indicated that she could help reduce the effects of nasolabial wasting, the loss of muscle tone and body fat in your cheeks which causes the lines from your nose to the corners of your mouth. Finally she showed me how acupuncture could help me reduce frowning so that the lines between my eyes would not become more severe over time. The procedure included ten weekly one hour sessions after which I reduced my visits to once a month for maintenance. After the first session, I noticed a major improvement and by the end of the tenth session, several lines on my face were gone completely and my face had a more even tone. By building the muscles in my cheeks she was able to reduce the effects of nasolabial wasting. In addition to improving my appearance, the wonderful thing about acupuncture is that it is one hour of pure heaven. As soon as Shelly places the needles in me, which does not hurt at all, I feel my entire body relaxing to the point where I am almost in a meditative sleep. Tragically I consistently wake myself up by snoring. In addition to softening lines and removing wrinkles on my face, Shelly has been able to help alleviate several ailments, including headaches, inflammation and, on occasion, she has reduced the severity of symptoms associated with colds and the flu.

If you decide to visit either Shelly, please tell her you read about her on Hair by Antonio.

SLK

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