Monday, October 27, 2008


Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

Making your own hair treatment.

This is a very interesting topic. I never realized that so many people are open to the idea of making their own hair remedies from scratch. After working with so many hair products over the years, I took it for granted and depended on product manufactures to guide me and provide me with hair care tools. Now it is time for me to get in on the action of HHCR (home hair care remedies).


I have researched many ingredients, mixing oils, fruits and even some ingredients from my native land (mosquitoes). I also tried a few home-made recipes that are being advertised. Some were good, some even great but many were just a plain old bad idea. Consequently, you should be careful before you use any remedy on your hair. This was the one that worked the best. I know because I tried it on my self and other friends. In case you were wondering, it was not tested on any animals.

FOR VIRGIN HAIR (for color treated hair remove Lemon)

The Ingredients-

VERY RIPE AVOCADO; Apart from making a mean Guacamole its has been known for its moisturizing oils.

VIRGIN OLIVE OIL: Is used all over the world in many home hair care recipes for soothing the cuticle.

ORGANIC EGG WHITE: Great source of protein

FRESH MINT: Great in preventing static on conditioned hair.

FRESH LEMON; A natural hair brightener

First whisk one egg white, half an ounce of lemon juice and half an ounce olive oil in a bowl. Then crush five mint leaves and an Avocado. Combine all ingredients and whisk for five minutes. I recommend shampooing with Green Tea Clarifying Shampoo by Aubrey Organics. Start by applying your treatment to clean partially towel dried hair, or as an intense treatment you can use the treatment on clean dry hair. Leave in your hair for five minutes and then rinse well. If you have stressed thirsty hair leave in for ten minutes and then rinse well. After rinsing, use the same
shampoo, but a lot less this time. Don't worry about the shampoo stripping the treatment. This treatment is so rich you will need to shampoo afterwards, trust me. When you are done, you would be amazed at how your hair will feel and the softness and shine will last for days!!

Look forward to more HHCR by hairbyantonio
Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved




As we all know perms have changed since the eighties. Don't get me wrong, there were soft natural looking perms then, but there were also a few culprits that would use too small rods making their curls look like a bunch of grapes. Some would over process their hair by leaving the chemicals in too long leaving it feeling like dry fried Calamari. Maybe it could have been the request of the client to have unnatural looking curls, but it is our job to educate the client
on what's best for their image and their hair.


1) Apart from the fresh lavender scent of perms (yeah right), is there anything new happening with perms?

Perms still smell like old beauty salons but they surly work differently. The formulas are gentler and cater to all hair types. We now have perms for fine virgin hair, coarse virgin hair, fine color treated hair and highlighted hair.

2) Are the perms for different hair types that different and do they really help?

Yes, they most certainly are different. The solutions for highlighted hair are far gentler and have extra conditioning. The structure of virgin hair is very different than that of colored hair. Virgin hair has all of its disulphide bonds in place and a fair amount of protein. The cuticle of colored has been lifted; protein removed and has a weaker structure. Using a chemical like a perm that tampers with the hair structure on hair that already has a weakened structure could mean
trouble, or should I say the B word? BREAKAGE.

3) Do I recommend a perm for highlighted hair?

It depends on the client’s hair. I have one client who has highlighted hair and I perm it every summer for her vacation. I know she will not be blow drying her hair (reason for the perm) and is very careful about avoiding the ocean and too much sun. She also has her hair highlighted at the salon so I know her hair history and can ensure it is not over processed. I use extra care when working with her hair. My client does intense treatments at home like Age Recharge by Kerastase every week for two months prior to getting her perm. This prepares her hair for the chemical it's about to endure. I make certain to give a very gentle shampoo before the perm and use the most gentle perm solution. One of my favorites is Goldwell's definition perm. The H/2S acid wave for highlighted or bleached hair leaves the hair feeling great. During the entire process I pay attention to the fragility of the hair by maneuvering the hair carefully. I pay extra attention to the hair's response to the solution by doing a curl test. There is also extra care when rinsing and extra special care when neutralizing the perm by not leaving it on for more than five minutes or sometimes less. I am also careful when removing the rods that I'm not too aggressive.

Look forward to part two which is all about why we get perms.

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved


Monday, October 20, 2008


Fine hair is always a challange it's not as forgiving as thick hair, so any mistakes are very obvious. It's very easy for fine straigt hair to look flat and boring at the work place so be aware. I cut this guy's hair first with the razor then with a sissors. Remember fine hair does not need to be conditioned too often because you want to avoid it being limp -- limp no good. I styled his hair with the illumimating polish by Alfaparf, its great for fine, textured towel dried hair (actually that's exactly what I used on his hair) Dry hair well and start with a little product first, less is more.

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved


Saturday, October 18, 2008


I thought it would be a great idea to start my up coming topics on wigs with my client Dustina, here she is freshly hair sprayed and off to the stage. I will be talking about all types of wigs from synthetic to human hair wigs so stay tuned for great information on all you need to know about wigs.

You go girl!!

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved



Today I saw one of my clients who lives out of town. I have been cutting her hair for more than a year now and she has always kept it long (bra strap long). She is a pretty Asian girl with very healthy hair that has a light natural flip. She is about 5 feet tall and has a long gorgeous neck. Today she really wanted a change and was contemplating going short, not chin length short, but short with long layers.


As a stylist it is important to consult with your client on how to be creative without being too ambitious and leaving unnecessary room for regrets. The first thing that was clear to me in this case was her beautiful hair, long sexy neck and small frame. It was also important to keep in mind that she does not want her hair to be super short. I decided to not cut her hair in the middle of the neck. Why? With a small frame and a long neck, if I were to cut that glossy slightly wavy hair in the middle of the neck she may end up looking like one of those toy Chihuahua that sits on the dashboard of a car with the bouncy necks.

So instead we kept it gently touching the collar bone. I cut long layers and focused on creating texture by gently razoring her hair. I also created a long fringe then I removed bulk to allow for more movement. The idea was to make the length flattering and focus on creating a visibly different texture to the hair that can still be managed by the client when blow drying.

Ladies, when working with your stylist to create your look, please talk about the things you like about your face before they begin. This conversation can help shape the direction your hair should be styled and serve as the guidelines for a great hair cut.


Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved



Now that I have subscribers who are clients, salon assistants and hairstylists, I've decided to extend my articles to anyone who is interested in hair.


If you love hair and the hair world, chances are you have already started your training in one on the many cosmetology schools across America. If not, well honey, start your enrollment today! Here are some helpful tips to get you on the right track to a successful start in an amazing career.

1) Document all of your work from day one. This will help you to monitor your progress. When you are at the point where you are about to graduate, you not only have your early work (which you can laugh at) but you also have a portfolio of your most recent work. Applying for a job fresh out of school and presenting a portfolio is very impressive.

2) While practicing in school, use magazines as inspiration to create styles, cuts and colors. It will keep you familiar with trends and how important it is to stay current.

3) Please do not go hog wild with hair color on yourself, especially when going to an interview. Get the faded pinks and big panels of black and blond out of your system early in the game (speaking from experience here).

4) Do as many wet sets and pin curls as you can, they are very important to your future in styling. Most styling techniques were born from these two old school techniques.

5) Find someone that inspires you in the industry and keep an eye on there career as it grows and changes. That could be you one day.

6) Be patient, you are embarking on an incredibly exciting career, however, it is up to you to take it to the moon.

Next topic is recommendations of classes to attend outside of beauty school.


Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved


Tuesday, October 14, 2008



Monday, October 13, 2008


Cellophane's hair gloss by Sebastian

Cellophane's come in many different shades which allow you to actually add temporary tones of color to your hair. They can be used after highlights or single processes. They can be used at the end of summer to add shine to dry, sun damaged hair and they are even safe for teenagers.

I use this in the salon.

This is the Sheer lacquer hair spray by she Umeura.

On my search to find a hair spray that did not have an overpowering fragrance I came up with one product which smells great and holds well. Also, the spray is super fine which is always a plus! You can purchase it online through the Eva Scrivo Salon website at or at

Illuminating hair polish by AlfaParf

The Alfaparf illuminating polish has a great smell, it's easy to apply, and works great on short, fine, or thick hair. On short hair, it's great for creating texture without feeling like super glue. I also can use a tiny bit on the ends of a blow dry: it was perfect! The shine was incredible, it was easily removed from the hair with one shampoo, and it’s not expensive.

Get it @

Pure diamond crystals by Alfaparf

Semi Di Lino Diamante is another great product by Alfaparf. It is a light weight serum that moisturizes incredibly well and is great for all hair types. I use this on curly hair at the end of the styling, whether wet or dry. Also, I use it before blow drying, and I find that it’s especially amazing to use a few drops prior to flat ironing. Just look at that packaging child! Get one now, you will thank me for it.

Get it @

Hair powders by bumble&bumble

Hats off to this company for stepping up and supplying the need to improve a product which has been used for many years. They not only improved the content, they packaged it so it comes in two sizes: a travel size and a larger package. It also now comes in different colors and is easy to use.

Get it @


AFG's Guide to products you must have.

These three products smell lovely, leave the hair with optimum shine and are great for stressed hair. So of course they get my stamp of approval.

Midollo Di Bamboo

Now, I have two words for you: Shaper Paste.

Shu Uemura recently launched there hair care line and I love it. The Shaper paste is nicely packaged, good for the hair, smells clean and a tiny bit goes a long way. I can use this on all hair types as well, even on damp hair. For me, most importantly, it can be easily applied, washes off easily, and delivers great hold. By golly, it works!

Mist oleo-curl

This is a light refreshing spray that helps the finest curly hair, most of all it never builds up on the hair and smells great.

Illuminating design gel by Alfaparf

easily one of the best gels on the market. It's great for blow drying or just leave-in and allow to dry without major flakes. This is the #1 purchase from my male clients.

Club Nancy Boy, need I say more? Talk about a delicious line of products for anyone who can appreciate the good stuff..

Tonic spray by Bumble&Bumble

This light leave-in conditioner is a must have for everyone. It can be used to refresh curls and revamp bangs. It's great for the man on the go, just mist and out the door.

Shimmer lights shampoo

I think Christopher Columbus and his posse used this product, as it has been around for a long time. Great for cancelling any yellow tones in grey hair from medication deposits, smoke and product build-up. It's also safe for those brassy blonde's.

Straight by Bumble&Bumble

This is a great for well, making hair straight!  A little goes a long way so be gentle with the squeeze..


Thursday, October 9, 2008


Can a plus size woman wear the same hair style of a smaller woman? Where can you find a magazine with hair styles for plus size women?

I was asked these two questions by one of my callers on a recent radio show and thought I should share it. . Not only are both great questions, they got me thinking and really paying attention to my surroundings and what is available for plus size women. As I thumb through magazines, I could not find any plus size models period. Some of the women were actually too skinny that it took away from the hair style, but that's a whole other topic.

As with any haircut, the hair stylist must take into consideration the shape of the client's face and shoulders as well as the length of their neck. When I see a hair cut I think is not appropriate, it is not because the person wearing it is wrong, it is because the cut is working against the shape of the face, the person's height or proportions. So when styling the hair of a plus size woman, there are not "special" haircuts, but a style that is suitable with softness where needed and strength in the right areas of the face.


To begin start looking at haircuts you like on a person who has a face shaped similar to your own. When you find that look in a magazine or online, cut out the picture or download the image and print it out. Take the photo of the new look to your stylist on your next visit. While sitting in your stylist's chair, discuss the image with your stylist before he begins your cut. Explain why you like the cut. Ensure there are similarities in the shape of the face and shoulders with your own features and be sure there is agreement that the haircut will look equally as good on you as in the picture. Finally, be prepared for any reasons why the look might not work as well for you as in the image.


Not all women with round faces have short necks. This is why it is important to understand that your cut will need to be personalized to suit your face, neck and shoulders. For women with shorter necks who are afraid to go short, I recommend longer bobs with soft layers around the face. Another tip is keeping the bob length A-line, so the back is shorter and the front is longer. This allows for movement and showing off more of the neck area. I don't recommend anything as dramatic as Posh what's her name. I prefer a lovely soft angle. If you like to sport a ponytail, it will be a bit shorter, but which is more important, a flattering hair cut that frames the face or a ponytail that may highlight heavier cheeks.


Monday, October 6, 2008


I recently finger waved this model for a photo shoot and decided to bring her back for a repeat performance. I razor cut her hair and then did a little dry cutting with the scissors after blow drying and before flat ironing to clean up the shape. This time for the style I wanted to show how a flat ironed head of hair can still look as if it was blow dried. How did I do this? It's all in the wrist. First it’s best to have a small flat iron. I use the Hana brand and have found great success with shine and control. Then I section as I normally do and just before I reach the ends of the hair I turn my wrist gently, and there it is. Voila.

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

Makeup by Frank Kammerer - Eva
Jewelery by Elaine Armstrong-



Creating the look for the right occasion is very important. It depends on the event, venue, your hair type, and your dress to decide on how you want to wear your hair. My model’s hair is relaxed so I choose to use a semi-permanent color. I used 3N by Wella Color Touch with 1.9 % peroxide for 15 minutes without heat. Then we rinsed, towel dried and used a clear Cellophane treatment by Sebastian to add as much shine as possible. We followed by setting the hair with a curling iron and added a gorgeous vintage hair comb created by Eva Scrivo salon. Ladies and gentlemen here is my finished look.

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

Why are up sweeps so difficult for some hair dressers? . Its a matter of choice and training. In beauty school there is the panic that goes into the work around putting hair up. By the time you become a hair stylist you have so many things to learn that up sweeps get swept aside. I have always loved putting hair up and still do. When I went to school, we had women coming from all over the San Fernando Valley who had been clients of the school for decades. If you didn’t know how to put hair up, honey, there was a price to pay (I’ve seen students running from bands of older women like a scene out of Dawn of the Dead).
Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

Makeup by Frank Kammerer - Eva



This is the question I am asking all my clients now. We know that their are color trends to follow, but what are you feeling personally? Be it low lights, darker shades of blond or back to natural, we all feel the need to change with the season. And why is this? Well most fair skinned men and women feel that because of the loss of their summer tan that lighter hair color washes them out. With my clients I don't necessary follow this rule; it can be broken if you really want to personalize your color. When asked to recommend a color, I like looking at the hair from the back first, then the sides and the front last. I am able to get a complete view of my canvas this way. The head is round, so when we look in the mirror we only see a small piece of the whole picture. Keep this in mind as you are brainstorming about your color transition. This a great time to apply some different shades of low lights. Consider having richer tones in the back then gradually place some deeper blond pieces through the front. It may mean adding more low lights to the back on your next visit and a few in the front. Keep in mind that low lights do not have to be dark brown, they can be rich blond with tones like medium golden blond and cognac. Please, not so dark that it looks fake or as if you are training in beauty school and finally discovering hair color! Believe me, I remember those days. Keeping richness to the back of the head allows the contrast of the depth in color to bring the focus to the top of the head with that lovely sparkle.

I haven't forgotten about my brunettes! If you are a brunette it's a great idea to foil or paint in a darker color rather than color the entire head. This gives dimension and still leaves you with that fresh feel. Also try to experiment with shades of brown, so if you are a dark brown and have faded after the summer, why not put some low lights in a warm dark brown? And please DO NOT be afraid of warmth!! I have converted many women that were afraid of warmth. It does not have to be that WARM equals RED.

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved



The razor’s been given a bad rap because, too often, it hasn’t been used properly. It’s time to rehabilitate the razor, and over the next couple of months I’m going to show you different cuts on different textures that are razored without being over razored and that still have a strong shape. The razor that I have been trained to use by Eva Scrivo (image #1) is such a great tool that the end result is far superior to the straight razor cut ( image #2).


Not only can I be extremely gentle with this razor without scraping the hair, I can also be far more creative. Why, you may ask? Well the first reason is #2 razor has a guard on it, so you won’t cut yourself. But because of this guard you are limited to using the razor with a lot of pressure and the guard takes away the versatility of the angles that you can cut. Here are two cuts done by the razor on very different hair textures that can be worn with a conservative style and can be funked-up at night to show off all the texturizing created by the razor.


The first cut was on fine wet hair. Notice that it still has a masculine shape to it. Keep in mind that not all razored cuts should have a soft, feminine look

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

The second cut is on thicker hair Because of having used the razor, this cut will grow out well and may even last longer than a scissor cut

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved


newer older