Thursday, February 19, 2009

SUMMER IN THE CITY





SUMMER IN THE CITY

Scenario: February is here, spring is right around the corner, and your thoughts are turning to your summer hair.

Over the last several years, you may have been caught in a cycle of ever-brighter hair color. But with the latest blond trends focusing on the darker side of the palette, is it time to yell “Stop” and rethink your color? So how do you decide what color works best for you?

SHADES OF BLOND

As a longtime blond, you may be the perfect candidate for a new sexy blond shade that's still vibrant with depth. As you move forward in the coming season, though, please manage your expectations. Perhaps you are used to being a little too blond. Try to keep an open mind about the new palette of colors. Sit back and imagine yourself with a healthy blond mane full of depth and contrast. First, you need to decide if you are one of two blonds. Are you the Cognac-lover, someone who goes for warm tones with descriptions like light golden blond or dark golden blond? Or are you the cool, neutral type, who gravitates to more beige tones, like wheat, ice and ash? These and many other words (think J Crew catalog, or paint chips) are helpful in communicating to your stylist what you want. It does not matter which one of these blonds you are; what does matter is that you know that either tone can be achieved, with depth, contrast and richness.






HOW DO I CREATE DEPTH?

1) To add depth to a blond client, I first choose a lowlight that has tones of the chosen highlight. For example, if I am working with a beige blond, I will use a lowlight with cooler tones, not a golden brown.

2) I decide on the technique to be used for my overall look. Lowlights do not need to be wide stripes or chunks of color. They can be applied naturally by using foils or even by painting (baliage). I like working with demi-permanent colors; they last, they are ammonia-free, and they leave the hair shinier than lowlights with permanent color.

3) Don’t forget glazes, which are a big part of achieving the final look. They are also chosen with the client’s tone in mind. They are ammonia-free, are simply applied at the shampoo bowl, and are left on for 5 to 15 minutes.






BLONDS BEWARE

1) Find a hair stylist who can really converse with you in detail about being a pretty and healthy blond.

2) Remember, heat is not the safest way to achieve lift for blond hair. It’s drying and can cause breakage. But a little heat near the end of your processing time is fine.

3) Make sure you don’t get over processed. When mixing bleach or lighteners, we measure the peroxide by volume; we use 10, 20, 30 or 40 volume. Ten and 20 volumes are what we generally use. Remember bleach will lift; all it needs is time. Ask your colorist what he or she is using. If you have fine hair, 30 or 40 volume may be too strong.

4) Always use hair masks once a week, and always use products to protect your hair from the heat of the dryer. Summer is hard enough on the hair, so do what you can year-round to protect that investment.

Any questions feel free to post, I will love to answer them.

I wish you beautiful blond hair!

AFG

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

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