Best Gray Coverage

Hello Antonio,

I'd be very grateful if you'd answer my question.

I've got a few premature greys, which seem very resistant to color. I've been getting my hairdresser to cover only the greys in my natural black-brown color, whilst applying highlights all-over. Despite my hair taking on both the various blonde and red colors used to high/lowlight, the greys don't seem to take on color at all! The only time they seemed to do so was when I was put under a heat lamp. I've been using permanent color all along. My hair type is fine, dry and frizzy, with a scalp tending towards oiliness.

Many thanks.

Thank you so much for writing. First of all, this seems like a lot of work for premature gray hairs. Not only is it an expensive process, it seems like it may not be the best approach...

Let me say it’s hard to give advice without seeing your hair but I can still provide some direction.

Generally, when we approach a "few grays" it’s with a demi-permanent color (maybe even semi-permanent) . With heat it can provide some coverage without being too harsh on hair. 

However for certain hair types even a few grays can be very hard to cover so permanent color might be the right choice.

The other challenge is transforming your hair so it’s as dark as your natural color. There's one problem, your hair now has some gray in it, so taking your hair dark is only making those few grays stand out even more. (I guess this is why you are doing highlights.) I recommend staying away from highlights for about four months and just making your single process color lighter. It will be up to your hairstylist to formulate a color that can control the orange tones, it can be done. The advantages are as follow...

1) It’s cheaper than highlights

2) You won't have to highlight as often because your hair will be lighter.

3) It’s way more gentle on your hair.

4) And your grays will be less noticeable.

Wouldn't it be great to just go in to the salon every 4-6 weeks for a single process and every 12 weeks for highlights?

Next the permanent color under the heat lamp concerns me.... It already has ammonia and peroxide so it should cover your gray, if it’s not covering it means the formula or color brand may need adjusting. Although some permanent hair color's can be used with heat, I just don't use them...

Overall the care of your hair is most important. So you may need to accept that your natural color may not be the best color to aim for. Let me know if you have any more questions.


Stay tuned for the responce and feel free to continue asking questions.

Posted by Unknown at 8:45 AM - 0 comments

The Difference Between A Gloss And A Glaze

I’ve heard from clients that they often get confused between a gloss and a glaze. One visit is for a gloss, the next, a glaze. Or sometimes the two are applied at the same time... So what’s the deal between the two? I did extensive research, read articles from fellow NYC stylists like Rita Marie and debated with my co-workers at Orlo Salon to inspire this article. Read on and learn the difference.

HAIR GLAZE
What comes to mind when I hear the word glaze is a shiny delicate surface, like that of a glazed cake. So, after my research, I was happy to learn that we agreed (other hairstylists) that a glaze is a temporary color that can add great shine to a virgin head of hair or color-treated hair. Some glazes have pigment added to boost any matching hair color. Whether it’s clear or colored, glazes add a safe, translucent coating to the hair shaft that washes off in 12-14 shampoos. Glazes contain no ammonia or peroxide, which means it does not have the ability to lift your natural color or open the cuticle to deposit color. It gently lays on the surface of the hair. Glazes will not cover gray hair. However, on someone with "a few gray hairs" it can add over all shine and a hint of a colored tone.

One of my favorite glazes is Colorshines by Sebastian (cellophanes). I have been using this product for over 20 years and I still love the results. This temporary gel-like substance comes in clear and a variety of colors that can compliment any brunette or blond. Keep in mind there are other glazes on the market but this is my favorite. I'm yet to be disappointed by this product.

GLOSS
When I think of a gloss, I think of car paint or nail polish, something stronger and longer lasting.

We also agreed (my fellow hairstylists) that a hair gloss is the stronger of the two. It contains peroxide and does have the ability to budge the cuticle depositing longer lasting color. If used with heat on virgin hair, some glosses will lift hair, changing the tone by a shade. (I have seen it with my own eyes.) When used on color-treated blond or brunette hair, it will add shine and enhance the existing tones, which can be a life saver a month after having your hair colored. Glosses can be clear or come in many different colors (more colors than glazes) and can last up to 3-4 weeks. They can be applied to dry or towel-dried hair and as mentioned, can be used with heat or no heat (like Wella Color Touch.)

One of my favorite glosses is Dia Color by L’Oreal. This can make a blond sparkle a month and a half after getting the color done, which means you can prolong your next visit to the salon for your full color application.

Keep in mind that glosses are a girl’s best friend (especially for blending gray hair) but it should be used when necessary and on hair that really needs it.

I wish you shine, shine, shine!!

Posted by Unknown at 7:18 AM - 0 comments