Thursday, November 1, 2012

Best Gray Coverage

Hello Antonio,

I'd be very grateful if you'd answer my question.

I've got a few premature greys, which seem very resistant to color. I've been getting my hairdresser to cover only the greys in my natural black-brown color, whilst applying highlights all-over. Despite my hair taking on both the various blonde and red colors used to high/lowlight, the greys don't seem to take on color at all! The only time they seemed to do so was when I was put under a heat lamp. I've been using permanent color all along. My hair type is fine, dry and frizzy, with a scalp tending towards oiliness.

Many thanks.

Thank you so much for writing. First of all, this seems like a lot of work for premature gray hairs. Not only is it an expensive process, it seems like it may not be the best approach...

Let me say it’s hard to give advice without seeing your hair but I can still provide some direction.

Generally, when we approach a "few grays" it’s with a demi-permanent color (maybe even semi-permanent) . With heat it can provide some coverage without being too harsh on hair. 
However for certain hair types even a few grays can be very hard to cover so permanent color might be the right choice.

The other challenge is transforming your hair so it’s as dark as your natural color. There's one problem, your hair now has some gray in it, so taking your hair dark is only making those few grays stand out even more. (I guess this is why you are doing highlights.) I recommend staying away from highlights for about four months and just making your single process color lighter. It will be up to your hairstylist to formulate a color that can control the orange tones, it can be done. The advantages are as follow...

1) It’s cheaper than highlights
2) You won't have to highlight as often because your hair will be lighter.
3) It’s way more gentle on your hair.
4) And your grays will be less noticeable.

Wouldn't it be great to just go in to the salon every 4-6 weeks for a single process and every 12 weeks for highlights?

Next the permanent color under the heat lamp concerns me.... It already has ammonia and peroxide so it should cover your gray, if it’s not covering it means the formula or color brand may need adjusting. Although some permanent hair color's can be used with heat, I just don't use them...

Overall the care of your hair is most important. So you may need to accept that your natural color may not be the best color to aim for. Let me know if you have any more questions.

Stay tuned for the responce and feel free to continue asking questions.


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