Double Processed Blond

I want to share with you a color scenario challenge that I encountered recently. A beautiful girl walked into the salon, wanting to fix her color. She’d been getting her hair dyed blond for sometime and had been happy… until now.

After her last color application, she was left with one inch of a very obvious gold band of color, which was 1/2 of an inch from the scalp. 

We decided to completely remove the gold band by doing a double process blond.

I wondered…was this the right approach?

A double process color is two applications of hair color. The first step is to use a lightner to lift the hair followed by a second step of adding an additional deposit of color.

We thought about doing highlights, but there would still be traces of gold on the hair (that could not be foiled). She was very clear, no gold band. However she wanted very light golden blond hair color.

Using 7 stage by Clairol, we first targeted the gold band. 

We then applied the same color to her root area. Separating the two applications is important, because one targets colored hair (gold band) while the second takes care of virgin hair (roots). At the end we toned it with a DiaColor, a demi permanent gloss that had beige tones 

followed with a conditioning treatment.

The results - we ended up with a buttery blond and the gold band was gone.

Check it out!

Posted by Unknown at 6:59 AM - 2 comments

The Truth Behind A "Few Free Highlights".

Over the years I've spoken to so many hairstylists who feel the same way I do about this topic. We remember going to countless color classes in the past and always being taught the same thing.

"Highlights are a great way to own a client. Just offer them a free few highlights and they'll become your money makers in the long run."

 Doesn’t sound too honest…right? Yes, highlights are a big money maker for hairstylists and can be a beautiful addition to a client’s appearance. But what if you really don't need highlights and your hair is fine just the way it is?

Yes, I know. You can't believe that as a hairstylist, I'm talking about this. The fact is the more honest we are to clients, the happier they are in the long run…and the money will follow.

If you're a natural brunette or get your hair colored and someone offers you a "few highlights" (free or not), here's how to survive the ambush.

Do I really need them and why?

If you're happy with your hair, sometimes less is more. Knowing why is important. It may be offered to you because you're greying fast and a few hits on the hairline will allow you to get an extra couple of weeks from your single process.

Will it dry out my hair?

Highlights are always drying, even if it's just a few. If you do decide to get them, change your hair care routine. Get a stronger conditioner and add a hair mask to your weekly routine. Make sure you are educated on the product commitment so you know if you can afford it.

 Are you going to use bleach or a high lift tint?

If your hair is very dark, bleach will probably be used and bleach is harsh. However high lift tints used with 40 volume on virgin hair is beautiful and less damaging. The problem with bleach is, it’s faster…and since time means money, be aware.

What's the upkeep like?

Ask if you can have subtle highlights so if you don't like them you can either grow them out or cover them up. But when you get subtle highlights and your friends say, "I can't see them," don't run back to the salon expecting more highlights for free.

How many times will I have to come in?

The thing with highlights is, they are addictive. So be aware that if a hairstylist says twice a year, it could lead down a path where you are kicking down the door, asking for more. In that case, you’re the only one to blame.

Ask if they do balayage?

Balayage, also known as hair painting, is very subtle and grows in nicely.

So there you have it, an honest approach to beauty from a hairstylist that cares.  ;)

Now be smart and enjoy your fabulous highlights!!

Posted by Unknown at 7:58 AM - 0 comments