Sunday, October 3, 2010

FASHION IN FORT GREENE

Pedigree Sneaker Gallery

45 Willoughby Ave., Brooklyn, NY 11205
at Adelphi St.
work718-858-8755

On a recent stroll through Fort Greene, Brooklyn (my new neighborhood), I came across a shop that totally caught my eye: Pedigree, a footwear fantasia with a selection I found utterly mouthwatering! Walking by, I was pulled in by my love for a pair of kicks that are modern, comfortable, and plain-old hot, and Pedigree's got 'em in spades.

I introduced myself to the owner, and we began chatting about the fashion/beauty industry and our mutual love for it.

One thing my new friends and I have in common (apart from a passion for fashion) is a commitment to making an impact in our industry from a humble place. We agree that tooting your own horn can only get you so far. What matters is walking the walk—not just talking the talk.
ANTONIO GONZALES: I adore Adidas Y-3 for its style and comfort, and you easily have the widest collection of styles I’ve seen. Is Y-3 an important line for Pedigree?
ASIO HIGHSMITH: Y-3 is an instrumental and influential brand for Pedigree Sneaker Gallery. It really sets the tone for our vision. The Yohji Yamamoto and Adidas collaboration has set a new lifestyle standard that is consistent and fresh. We can dig it!

AG: What led you to open a store like Pedigree in this particular Brooklyn neighborhood?
AH: The inspiration for Pedigree came from our travels and experiences, and the lack of access to cool stuff that you usually can only find in Manhattan or just somewhere else. We wanted to create more than just a “sneaker store,” and we believe strongly that we can do it right here… in Brooklyn!

AG: What do you look for in terms of style when choosing women’s footwear for Pedigree?
AH: The most important elements here are form and what we like to call “FUNKtion.”
AG: Is diversity elemental to Pedigree’s mission statement as a retail location and a brand in itself?
AH: I like to think of it as “thoughtful diversity,” and yes, it is definitely one of the elements we cherish most. It just feels like the communities here in Brooklyn are so much more in tune with their cultural differences than just about anywhere else. We use that harmony as our reference and foundation when we go to showrooms or collaborate with designers.
AG: What are the latest footwear trends that are reflected in Pedigree’s inventory currently?
AH: The Y-3 Boxing shoe and mold has made a significant impact on fashion recently. If you pay attention to today’s styles people prefer a more fitted, slimmer look from top to bottom. Alexander McQueen’s final collection is up in here, too.
AG: Are there any trends that you feel are on the verge of becoming really big in the near future?
AH: That is, are there any style predictions you'd like to make?
Pant-sagging—everybody is doing it!
AG: The music I heard in the store is great—what’s your goal with the selection you play?
AH: Since we have a DJ booth in the store, you never know who might be spinning, so we’re pretty organic with the music flow.
AG: Have there been any celebrity sightings in the store that you can share with our readers?
AH: As far as celebrity sightings, we’ve had quite a few. But if they’re not talking, we ain’t talkin’!
It's been nearly one year since I began working at a new salon and eight months since I relocated to Fort Greene, Brooklyn, and I'm happy to report that both moves have had a profoundly positive effect on my life. As I get to know Brooklyn I feel more and more at home, and as I keep an eye out for style in a 'hood I find very fashion-forward, I'm coming across shops that I love and proprietors and designers whom I'm really enjoying getting to know.

Antonio Gonzales

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Friday, September 17, 2010

GREAT HAIR AT FASHION WEEK WITH MICHAEL KORS FASHION

Here is Orlando Pita doing a demo for the look to created. This was a fun show as usual and I loved the clothes.











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Monday, September 13, 2010

WORKING WITH ORLANDO PITA TODAY AT FASHION WEEK FOR CAROLINA HERRERA



Today at Carolina Herrera Orlando created his magic and I was so happy to be part of it!







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DIANE VON FURSTENBERG MERCRDES BENZ FASHION WEEK

Behind the scenes at DVF working on Supermodel Juana Burga




Working my magic!!



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WORKING AT DEREK LAM MERCEDES BENZ FASHION WEEK

Here are the images of me yesterday backstage at Derek Lam's Fashion Week show.

With supermodel Abby Lee Kershaw









Another supermodel Ginta Lapina








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Tuesday, August 31, 2010

FOLLOWING THE TRENDS IN NYC

We have always known that fashion is an art form that has no barriers, and now we see that hair is following suit. Luckily for me, every single day I'm reminded that I live in the most fashion-forward city in the world. As I make my way to work from Brooklyn, I'm constantly inspired by the individual expressions of creativity I encounter—and no more so than in the ingenious, diverse hair styles all around me. Now more than ever, I see people both young and old re-creating popular hair trends from the '80s and '90s, but often adding great twists and fresh ideas to classic styles that have had a real impact on popular culture over the years—either positive or negative, depending on one's perspective.

One thing I've noticed is experimentation with hair color and extensions in fascinating ways. Whether a simple blond streak or a vivid and brightly colored extension, people on the street (and especially teenagers, notorious for always being on the forefront of cultural evolution), are making statements indicating that they're very much in touch with what's happening in the world of hair, the trends of today and yesterday that are lasting and significant.

LOOKS FROM TRENDSETTER ORLANDO PITA, 2010



Christian Dior


Derek Lam's Spring 2010 Runway Show


A GIRL FOLLOWING THE TRENDS
Here are two photos I took on impulse in my Brooklyn neighborhood near the subway, of a young lady who really caught my attention in unexpected ways—first with her outfit, but especially with her hair style. I loved the way she interpreted a popular current style by adding a unique twist and flavor with form and color. She was happy to tell me that she and her sister had created the look together.


OLD SCHOOL

NEW SCHOOL

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Wednesday, August 11, 2010

STEVE MEISEL. KRISTEN McMENAMY & ORLANDO PITA WORKING THEIR MAGIC!!

I'm so proud of this amazing shoot, great job Orlando!








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Sunday, August 8, 2010

WHERE I WORK AND WHO I WORK FOR.

After fielding several emails from readers asking where I work, I decided to offer some insight into my world over the past 10 months. I would like to share with you a bit about the salon where I spend my days, and some of my experience so far. As I mentioned in previous posts, I've followed Orlando Pita's career for many years, dreaming of having a good long conversation with him about hair and his journey with it. One day I was doing online research to see what he was up to, and I came upon this article on the man and his salon by Karen Tina Harrison. An excerpt:

"Orlo is all about hair: No other services are offered, and its plain white space underscores the salon’s tight focus on the scalps and manes of the city’s fashion elite. Set in a Meatpacking District walk-up, the salon is owned by coiffeur Orlando Pita, who honed his reputation over decades of photo shoots."
Harrison describes the salon well, its focus being great hairdressing and efficient service in a studio-like environment. That short article provided me with all the information I needed to know; I was on the right track to finding a new home.

THE INTERVIEW
During my interview with Orlando, I was so nervous! You must understand, I fantasized of simply having a talk with him, but applying for a job at his salon was a little out of my league (or so I humbly thought). As we chatted about my career and professional goals he asked a key question: What was I looking for in applying for the position? My reply was simple: I know there is so much more to hair than I now realize, and I would love to widen the scope of my experience and learn all I can. He smiled and I knew he got my point.

THE PAST 10 MONTHS
As many of you can relate, their are so many layers to the creative aspect of our business, and it's very easy to become comfortable with what you know. Needless to say, the past 10 months have been the most challenging of my career, creatively. Not to say that the early years were not challenging; they most definitely were. The difference with this position was that although I was at my strongest point creatively, I was about to enter a new environment that would drastically change my experience with hair as I've known it thus far.

Let me explain. Throughout my career I've heard so much of 90 degrees, 45 degrees, traveling guidelines. I am very visual, so cutting by numbers just always struck me as odd. The flip side to this is that although being visual is an asset, there has to be a level of precision. So is it possible to have a very visual, relaxed approach to a haircut backed by very clean, precise technique? The answer is "yes" and I have spent the past 10 months adapting to this compromise. Hair-cutting as I know it has totally changed and this is no exaggeration.

The truth is, I can't explain it fully, nor can there be a DVD or even a website illustrating my point. It's a very personalized technique pertaining to the client's face shape, density and texture, and it's done with a razor on dry hair. At Orlo, Joe Martino has been guiding me into this new creative direction and has been generous with sharing what was taught to him by Orlando himself.
What I love most about training under Joe is that he understands my background in cutting wet hair with a razor and scissors; he knows how I think (or how I used to think, I should say). It's been exciting to witness my clients notice the big difference in their hair, and the resulting influx of new clients that are looking for something special that they hear I can provide.

HAIR BY JOE MARTINO

Another area that has been essential to my training is my experience working Fashion Week. It's really a whole other world. In the salon, styling hair is far more forgiving as it's softer, more flexible, and there are no cameras or bright lights. Conversely, during Fashion Week it's totally about efficiency, detail and the ability to hold fresh looks for the cameras. I recall working for the Carolina Herrera show: The look was a sleek finish (not pin-straight) and we were to rely solely on the brush. On finishing, I sized up my model and she looked great. Orlando then came by to coach me (it being my first show ever). Gentle as usual, he expressed satisfaction... right up until he separated the hair, that is. There it was—a small section that was not adequately polished. He kindly but firmly pointed out that every section of hair should be perfect, always. I took his advice to heart. Now, for every client I touch, I remember that moment and try my best to pay attention to the details. I have learned that this vital lesson—attention to detail—is what separates the men from the boys in our industry. : )

I'm sure many of you can relate to the idea that having your dream job can be an utterly rewarding experience, with a ripple effect touching every aspect of your life. Those of you who can't relate (at least not yet), keep working hard and one day you too will have the job you've always wanted. And that's a promise.


Antonio Gonzales



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Thursday, July 15, 2010

"INOA OR NOT"

In my color career, hiding gray often meant utilizing ammonia-containing products for perfect coverage. There have been many attempts to manufacture a color treatment without this historically vital chemical, but no matter how great the claims were, the coverage really was never the same. Containing little or no ammonia, these products were thus gentler on the hair, but the results were invariably more of a "gray blending" effect rather than 100% coverage. For some clients this proved sufficient, while others opted for full coverage regardless of potential damage.

When INOA hair color hit the market earlier this year, there was a lot of publicity with claims of its ability to change hair color as we know it. The press it garnered was endless and both hairstylists and clients were waiting to see if the effect would back up all the buzz. Let me make this very clear: I do not use INOA. I will be addressing the topic from the research I have done for my clients and for hairstylists who have sent endless emails inquiring about this product. In my research, I've asked colleagues whom I've worked with in the past who have solid experience with INOA. Who better to ask than those actually using it, right?
A FACT
The one thing we know for sure is that it covers gray and is safe to use on damaged hair. But because I have an extensive color clientele of cool brunettes and beige blondes, I needed to know if I could use these product to satisfy my clients and meet their coloring needs completely and safely.


THE VISUALS

As I began, my research entailed perusing images that were used in magazines, online and in brochures. I noticed the images were quite beautiful, with gold/red tones and very golden blondes. I decided to locate videos as well and found the same—warm golden or red heads of shiny, lustrous hair. There's nothing like a shiny head of hair with sparkling warm tones, but try selling that to the client who hates anything to do with warm, red or gold tones. In a perfect world it would be ideal if all clients were unafraid of warm tones, but in reality, some women would rather go gray than have hair with obvious red tones. And as we know you can achieve shiny hair color using other color brands " if you don't mind ammonia".



So the question is: Can INOA achieve cool brunettes and blondes without warm tones?


CONVERSATIONS WITH OTHER COLORISTS
I asked several colorists working in salons that use INOA, and the feedback was uniform. Here's what a couple had to say:

"I'm still up and down with INOA. I think it's great for some clients (like those with very dry, overprocessed hair). In these cases, the hair looks and even feels amazing. I've never tried it on a blonde, though. I've seen one done by someone else and it was ehh.... Because you must emulsify the roots before rinsing, it's hard not to get the root color on the ends, and when doing a single process color on a blonde, this can be a problem. The results are a blonde that is too warm."

"I'm having a hard time getting blondes without golden tones. We're supposed to have a one-on-one with L'Oréal to learn how... I can't imagine that it's that complicated."

MORE RESEARCH
What I gathered from my research was that although INOA may be ammonia-free, gold tones are hard to avoid, especially with blonde hair. It's up to the client to decide which is more important: ammonia-free color or the absence of golden tones completely (either for a blonde or brunette).



WHY NOT USE INOA?
As soon as the product was launched I began receiving questions from clients as to whether or not I would be using it. I explained to them that when this product was made available, the only way to see its functionality was to attend one of the demos. As hairstylists we often get opportunities to observe and as you can imagine, observing is often not enough: I prefer to get my hands in there and see what the product can actually do without having to take someone else's word for it. Furthermore, in order to use INOA one must purchase the entire color line. Keep in mind that this is by no means cheap (with over 50 shades total). In this economy, a guarantee that INOA performs exactly as publicized is crucial. The best guarantee is for the stylists themselves to play with the product a little. Some may argue that in order to use any new color you must buy the entire line; this may be true, but other color lines aren't making the claims attributed to INOA.

Here's what another colleague said:

"We didn't take the full class. Just got a demo and while I think it's an interesting product, I don't want to invest in the full line. So I think for now we're not going to go with it but rather wait to see if it delivers."


I will continue to research this color line and bring you feedback as my colleagues share their experiences with me. At the end of the day it's wonderful to have an ammonia-free product, but only time will tell if INOA lives up to its promises. And if I start using it you will be the first to know.

Thanks for reading.
Antonio Gonzales

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Thursday, July 8, 2010

ORLANDO PITA IN PARIS

Returning to work after the Fourth of July weekend, I must admit I was a little beat and needed a zap to get me back in the swing of things. Luckily I have a boss who's out there setting trends and always feeding me great inspiration. Stay tuned for up-to-date inspirations from Orlando and welcome to Dior couture!







I cant wait to see Orlando to ask him how he created those looks, who knows you could be next!!

Antonio

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Monday, June 21, 2010

ORLANDO'S HAIR POWDER IN THE NEW YORK TIMES

I saw this article in the New York Times yesterday and I was inspired to follow up with one of my old articles on hair powders. The difference is as a hairstylist I do my testing on what works for my clients. Here it is!
TO THE POWDER ROOM

Feeling “not so fresh” the day after your blow dry? Oily scalp getting you down? Is being limp irritating you? We all have those days, don’t we?

Hair stylists such as myself have told you that hair powders are the answer. They help save your three-day blowout by lifting oils from the scalp. They help give body to ladies with fine hair and they can even blend your color if unwanted grays have grown in.

Well, would you like to know what the main differences between the best hair powders on the market are? I would. That’s why I’m here darlings; to put hair products to the test for you and only you.

After trying many different hair powders while performing salon services and freelance , I’ve narrowed it down to 2 with results that will benefit you.


The first is by Bumble and bumble. I’m a huge fan of this line and have used their products for years. I’ve written about them, talked on the radio about them and used them during my photo shoots. Their powders come in 5 different colors in aerosol cans. I’ve been using them for quite some time and my clients approve.

The second is new to me and is by Orlando Pita in the T3 line. It contains three colors and claims to produce comparable results. Over a period of time I have used them both and am prepared to share my thoughts with you now.


First, I took two pieces of white paper and sprayed them with a can of hair powder from each line.

Bumble and bumble- This product adhered to the paper nicely, but no matter how much I sprayed it never accumulated to be as powder-like . When I ran my finger across the paper, it barely moved from the paper.

T3- After a few minutes of spraying this product, it quickly dried and turned into a powder. When I say “powder”, I mean it was as if though I was almost touching loose powder. I could actually rub my fingers together and it would crumble.


I then tried them on clients…

Bumble and bumble- Their blondish was dark on white paper and on the client’s roots I found that it was not versatile enough for different shades of blond. The red was great, the black was black and I did like the brown.

T3- The colors are true to their names. Their light blond is exactly that; on white paper it was a pretty shade and covered it well. Because of its consistency, I was able to spray a little for a lighter blond and more for a deeper blond. The auburn is a true auburn. The coverage was flawless, especially on the re-growth of gray hair. You can actually save money on your single process by applying this on your gray roots. This will allow you to stay away from the salon longer.


The true test here is application. These have to be easy enough for the client to use, which is my main concern. Clearly T3 was the easiest because of its consistency. Ultimately, it’s a hair powder and it should feel like powder no matter what.

Orlando at Derek Lam



Here are two tips on using both Hair powders.

TIPS ON APPLYING BOTH PRODUCTS FOR OILY ROOTS

Shake the can well. Lift the root area and lightly apply hair powder. Work section by section and apply more if needed. If you feel that there is too much in one section, use your blow dryer to remove excess product.

TIPS ON APPLYING BOTH PRODUCTS FOR COVERING GRAY RE-GROWTH

Try spraying the powder on a sponge tip applicator or makeup brush and apply to the gray hair while trying to avoid the scalp. It will eventually get on the scalp on its own which is fine.

Please try both powders and see which is best for you.

Antonio





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