Monday, September 29, 2008

MY HAIR CUT ON TOUR

Recently my client Chris Carrabba of Dashboard Confessional was at the salon for a visit just before his U.S. tour to over 17 states. The last time I was lucky to see him perform at a sold out concert at madison square garden and it was amazing!   It's always fun seeing Chris, he is such an inspiration and we always have fun together creating his new cuts.

Good luck Chris...



Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

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IS IT TIME TO SAY GOOD BYE?

I know you are probably thinking, "Is he afraid to have this conversation?" Honey, this is what HAIR BY ANTONIO is all about, having difficult conversations with you, for you, to help you...

No one in any job has ever maintained every client they have ever touched for the rest of their careers. It is just not realistic. Actually, change is healthy. But maintaining a happy client is key for both parties involved.

THE STYLIST

We as the provider do have the power to deliver our best, which should be our main focus with every client. It is also important to try our best to read the client’s every comment and reaction to our ideas. If a client is unhappy, there is always a little something in their facial expression to tell you, "I am not feeling it." What is very important to me is to keep a mental note while I am interacting with my clients. I ask myself, "Am I doing the best I can do? Does his or her facial expression really show complete satisfaction? Are we on the same page? How can I take my ego out of this and be open to how the client sees him or herself?”

THE CLIENT

You have a relationship with your stylist, but at the end of the day, it's about knowing what's right for you. By the time it gets to the point of thinking of a divorce, something important must be bothering you. The longer the relationship the harder it is. Whether it has been a 1 year relationship or a 15 year relationship, give your stylist one more chance. At the next appointment, be honest and vent your frustrations. Make sure they hear what you are saying. This conversation will be your deciding factor on your next move. Let's face it, a great hairstylist is hard to come by, but at the same time, so is a dedicated client.

If you feel that the relationship with your stylist is hopeless, don't be afraid to flee the sinking ship and step onto someone else's yacht! Informing your stylist of your decision is entirely up to you. Some clients are comfortable being completely honest and upfront with their stylist. Although, it is a difficult conversation to have, you might just be the client to pull the blinders from in front of your stylist’s eyes; ultimately helping to make him or her a better stylist. Others may opt to pull a Houdini disappearing act; never to be seen or heard from again. In the long run (after a long search for a new stylist) you might wind up wishing the relationship could have been saved.

These are a few reasons that some of my new clients have DIVORCED their previous stylist.

-Wanting change
-Miscommunication
-Stylist moving
-Being too familiar
-Feeling neglected
-Stylist feeling too creative

While these are all valid reasons, many could have been worked out. What is the key to any relationship? COMMUNICATION!! You are paying for a service so never be afraid of having an open dialogue to achieve your desired results.

Have I ever been DIVORCED? Child, I am still paying alimony :)

Next topic: “How to know if your stylist is divorcing you.”

AFG
Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

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BY SLK

40 AND FABULOUS


I was chatting on the phone the other day with my dear friend, Paul, who had just ran into another friend, Gary. In the spirit of the remake of “The Women”, Paul asked me if I had seen Gary in a while. When I replied it had been a few months, Paul proceeded to tell me of the sad situation with Gary’s hair. Apparently Gary had fallen victim to a bad colorists and was looking like he was sporting a black helmet on his head. Paul suggested that I have a discussion with Gary and get him to a good colorist (Antonio) or convince him to go natural. Being ever so diplomatic, I of course refused.

It did get me thinking, however, about our youth obsessed culture and how more and more men are falling victim to hanging on with dear life to their younger days. I am not one to criticize as I have my own youth obsession although I find myself desperately trying to walk the fine line between looking good for my age and sporting a ridiculous youth obsessed appearance. While there is a huge difference between the two, it is ever so easy to fall into the latter category. So many trends look fabulous on the young so why not on me??? Mainly because, at 45, I am no longer young!!!

The challenge is that many men over the age of forty still look and feel like they did ten years ago so they are convinced they can pull off the latest trends sported by kids twenty years their junior. My friend, who is well in his forties, showed up at a party wearing jeans with holes and paint splattered all over them. While this look would be sexy on a 22 year old sculpted physical trainer, (and what look wouldn’t???) my friend sadly looked like a handy man. As a rule, I find that if it has any kind of Abercrombie & Fitch logo, it needs to be donated to your local youth hostile.

This is not to say we need to fill our closets with clothing from Brooks Brothers or Paul Stuart but it does mean that more attention needs to be paid to what we put on our backs. There are clothing designers who have attractive fashionable clothes which do not make you look like you are trying to be 23. Etro has been a favorite designer of mine for a while now. The rich colors used in their designs keep the look interesting yet the cut and the quality of the fabrics assures you these clothes are not for kids. My boyfriend, on the other hand, is a huge fan of Ted Baker. His designs are versatile and work well at the office as well as at any fashionable restaurant or the theater. For a more casual look, both of us love Parke & Ronen and I like to mix in a bit of John Varvatos. When wearing something youthful, I differentiate myself from the youth by mixing it with something of quality such as a suede coat or a pair of great shoes and I try and stay away from anything that has abstract art or cartoons on it.

The same rules apply to hair. While at Fashion Week, I noticed that many of the male models walking down the runways had these adorable haircuts with razor cut sides and backs, while floppy mains of hair were draped across their foreheads. Sadly while at breakfast this morning. I noticed a man in his forties with salt and pepper hair attempting the same look. Not working for him and it will not work for you. The best looks for hair on mature men is to keep it short and well groomed. No one wants to look at long unsightly neck hair, especially when it is grey and wiry.
40 AND FABULOUS
Recently I have allowed my own natural highlights to grow in and I am slowly getting comfortable with the notion of my main of black hair having sparkles of silver throughout. When I used to try and hide the natural highlights, Antonio and I worked very closely to make sure the color looked natural and was never too dark or fake. He was so good that my own boyfriend did not know I colored my hair for a year and a half. Now that I have gone au natural, Antonio has begun placing a glaze on my hair so the black strands retain some shine making the silver hairs less noticeable.

I have said repeatedly that if you are going to enhance your looks through artificial means, be it hair color, botox or cosmetic surgery, strive to stay as natural as possible. Extreme is never a good look on any man over the age of 35.

A man’s forties are a great time in life. This is a period when we are blessed with increased creativity and imagination. We are established in our professions and our experience allows us to achieve greater success without working as hard and a certain amount of mastery begins to emerge. We are also more at peace with ourselves and we start to become more gentile. We develop a broader, more humanitarian vision of life and we see more clearly our connections to others around us. We are more concerned about conditions in our community, our country and the world and we have the financial and intellectual wherewithal to start making a difference. It would be a shame to waste this wonderful time yearning to be something which is quickly becoming a distant memory.

SLK
Enjoy!!!

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Tuesday, September 23, 2008

SHORT & SEXY

SHOT & SEXY

This model came into the salon with hair passed her shoulders and wanted to go as short as she could. So, I started her cut with scissors and then removed the bulk and created softness with the razor. My focus with this cut was insuring that it worked for her profile. I styled her hair with the Shaper Paste and Camellia Oil, both by Shu Umera.







Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved



Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved



Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved



Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved


Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

Photography- www.rileyandrileyphoto.com

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HAVING THE RIGHT PRODUCTS

Often in my conversations with clients, while I am recommending a new hair care product, the first thing they say is, "I already have so many products, and I never use them!" It's important to know the shelf life of your products. Most are only recommended for up to a year and a half. So, DON'T LET THE PRODUCTS THAT YOU HAVE STOP YOU FROM GETTING THE PRODUCTS THAT YOU NEED!

Remember that shirt that you found in the back of the closet that was once upon a time cute but now you could not bear to be seen wearing? Well it’s the same with hair care products. That dated hair gel or mousse is the weakest link, and must leave the room at once! There are times when I change the color or cuts of my clients, especially when changing to a new cut, I make sure to recommend a change in products. The new cut often needs different support. It is impossible to style a short haircut with products used to style a shoulder length haircut and vice verse. It is also impossible to duplicate the same style that is done in the stylist's chair with the wrong products or products not recommended to support the haircut. So take a deep breath, open the cabinet or where ever those evil old products are stored and give them to an enemy.

Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

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Saturday, September 20, 2008

ALL ABOUT BANGS

One statement that I often hear is, "The last time I had bangs I was six and my mother cut them." Well, you WILL NOT be reliving that experience once I'm around! I myself am still recovering from the bowl cut my mother gave me, so many things that went wrong in my life were as a result of having a bowl cut ;)

A great fringe (bangs) depends on who's behind the chair. It takes a skill and well, common sense to get the fringe to fall just the way you want it. Its also very important that when cutting the fringe that it relates to the rest of the hair cut. Otherwise, you will look like when your mother cut your bangs.

The shape of your face is very important to keep in mind when working with your stylist to determine if bangs are the right look for you. For example, a fringe can make your jaw line appear to be heavier than it actually is, especially if you have a not-too-small forehead and a strong jaw line. Too often, I have clients who saw their girlfriend sporting new bangs and now want the look for themselves. Well, this often turns into the classic example of bangs gone wrong. If you cover the entire forehead, the end result will be draw attention to the chin and jaw line area, making it seem like you have a heavier jaw or rounder face than you actually do.

The next point about having bangs is maintenance. Are you willing to maintain them? Or should the question be, can you maintain them? It’s important to be realistic and not have regrets, especially since it takes time for bangs to grow out

I can style bangs for any shape of face, but you have to remember that it is not all about the fringes! It's also about having a good haircut to support them. For example, if I am doing a haircut on someone with a round face, and they would like short bangs, I would support the change by adding in layers around the face for softness and may even consider changing the length.

Remember, bangs are not to be just slapped on any one’s forehead. They must be planned ahead of time and supported by the right cut.

Here are some dos and don’ts on bangs

Do's

A) Have them done by your hair stylist.

B) Ask the stylist for a mini class on styling them

C) Get the right brush if needed. You can't use your big round brush and expect not to look like you are an extra in the movie VALLEY GIRLS

D) Always go back to your hair stylist to get them reshaped.

E) If you see your stylist take the entire front of your hair and claim to be creating bangs, DO grab your clutch purse and run or call 911.

DON’TS

A) Six weeks after a great hair cut don't just hop into some random salon and have Ella Luise and her two left hands ruin your hair cut by touching up your bangs.

B) Personally I recommend that you never cut your bangs your self, I am sorry, it could be the biggest hair mistake you ever made.

C) Don't expect that the bangs on Linda Evangelista will look the same on you.




Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

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Friday, September 19, 2008

MY LATEST PRODUCT FIND


MY NEWEST FIND

As a child I remember playing on a hill in my back yard under a bamboo patch (that's what we call it in Trinidad) and always being amazed by the bamboo plant. It is so strong, beautiful and the locals would get extremely creative by making jewelry, cups and, at a particular Hindu festival, would turn it into a cannon which you could hear across the valley. So when I Midollo di bamboo products, I thought I had to try it. These three products smell lovely, leave the hair with optimum shine and are great for stressed hair. So of course they get my stamp of approval.



Try it!!

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THE PERFECT RED

This was a fun job. My client’s hair is actually almost black. We lifted her base color and then followed with a great mix of natural and red tones. I then finger waved her hair and sat her under the dryer. Here are some images of her complete look. The first image shows her hair in a tight finger wave and, in the second image, I combed out her hair for a softer finish.





Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved




Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved




Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved




Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

Jewelery by Elaine Armstrong
www.elainearmstrongco.com

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HAIR BY ANTONIO

This friend of mine has extremely curly hair. It is so curly, that to give him a great cut, I actually first blow dried his hair and flat ironed it using the Hana flat iron. Then I cut his hair dry. I was not too concerned about cutting his hair curly because he only wears his hair straight. He is a dancer so it’s easy for him to wear a longer style and have the ability to work it! I also used a clear cellophane on his hair which is how I gave him great shine. For a styling product, I used the Polishing Milk by Shu Umera on wet hair and a little of the Camellia Oil prior to flat ironing.




Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved



Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved



Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved



Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

Photography- www.rileyandrileyphoto.com
Makeup by Vinnetta Scrivo

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WITH MEN IN MIND

Often, when you wet hair, it stretches so I decided to cut my friend’s hair dry to maintain the length. I then shampooed his hair and completed my look by adding the final shape with scissors. It’s important to have a haircut that's versatile for daytime and to play at night. For shine, I did a clear cellophane gloss, which has only vegetable ingredients, so it’s great, even for kids, and lasts up to 2 weeks. I then styled with the Illuminating Polish from Alfaparf.







Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved





Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved


Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved


Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

Photography- www.rileyandrileyphoto.com
Makeup by Vinnetta Scrivo

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Friday, September 12, 2008

ANTONIO ON ABOUT.COM

Please have a look at my article on about .com

http://beauty.about.com/od/haircuts/a/grow-out-a-bob.htm

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HAIR BY ANTONIO


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JAMES ON HAIRBYANTONIO

For a while now, I have been praising the expertise of James Abel Events, James Abel Events is a full service boutique event design and production company located in Manhattan, specializing in exclusive social and corporate events. With over 17 years of experience in the industry, James Abel Events offers a level of expertise that is unparalleled. From event conception and design, to site selection, to invitations, flowers, music and not to mention a great menu, James Abel Events ensures every detail is handled properly. Did I mention that I love working with him?
Please enjoy..









http://www.jamesabelevents.com/

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GREAT QUESTION!!

Hi Antonio,

I love listening to you on MS112. You are so knowledgeable - thank you for all your advice! I need a product suggestion please. I very, very rarely use a hair spray (maybe 2-3 times per year and only a quick spritz for an up do) but the one I use is very "perfumey" and overpowers any cologne or perfume I may have on - all too much! Can you suggest a product with no smell that would achieve the same result?


Great question! It's amazing how many hairsprays smell like cheap perfume. Well I did my research and after smelling 10 hair sprays from the cheap ones to the expensive ones (great buzz by the way), I came up with one product which had no overpowering fragrance. It's the Shu Uemura sheer lacquer finishing spray. It smells great and holds well. Also, the spray is super fine which is always a plus! You can purchase it online through the Eva Scrivo Salon website at www.evascrivo.com or at www.shuemura-usa.com/Content/ArtOfHair.aspx.


I will continue posting questions from listners and readers so please stay tuned.





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MY PICK OF THE WEEK AFG APPROVED

I was cruising down the isle at my local pharmacy the other day and guess who I came across? My old friends, Extra Body Mousse and Extra Body Spray by Paul Mitchell, and honey we go way back. I actually worked in a salon in Trinidad which carried Paul Mitchell before I moved to the U.S. I remember loving these products so when I saw them I had to grab two cans.

The Extra Body Mousse is glorious. It has a velvety foam in a large can that will make any thing stand up! I use this mousse on curly hair to diffuse, on medium straight hair to blow dry with great lift and even on heavy Asian hair (just use more product). Unlike other mousses, the fragrance is not bad at all.

TIP
Do not use on extra fine hair as this product may be a little too heavy.






The Extra Body Spray comes in a large can as well. After blow drying and styling, use a little on your hair to maintain lift. And when using Velcro rollers, spray a little product on each section of hair before wrapping the hair around the roller.

TIP
If you love running your hands through your hair after styling, this is not the product for you.

If you need more advice on pharmacy product's just send me an email and thanks Paul Mitchell.








Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

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Friday, September 5, 2008

TRENDS


TRENDS-

One thing that is intriguing to me is that there actually was a group
of women which never embraced the bob. I asked myself, why was this
true? So, after being bold enough to walk up to young women and ask
frank why they avoided the bob, the answers became obvious. Some said
they felt the style was introduced by a celebrity that they could not
relate to, while others had a bad experience with the cut. But, the
excitement around the short bob has triggered a wave of women that are
going real short.

I am now seeing a trend emerging with women in New York who want to go
past the bob in terms length. They are demanding very short hair!  For
me, this is so refreshing because It seems as though short hair comes
in brief phases in the U.S., but is a norm for most European women.
It's cool to see that the "American girl" is letting go of her long
hair and is demanding short, sexy hair.So often I hear beauty advice
about keeping your hair long to hide flaws, well why are we focusing
on the flaws in the first place?  Are we arr going to walk around
hiding behind layered long hair?  I don't think so!

 I remember attending a hair-cutting seminar in London where the
visiting students were all-American types (including myself). As I
looked at the seven women sitting in front of me, all I could see was
long, flowing sexy hair ( honestly some were not sexy at all) . But,
the educators were three fierce women with short, flawless cuts. The
focus was a great hair cut to flatter the shape of the head and the
face, so they were showing off necklines, jawlines and cheekbones.
Obviously if you wanted to find flaws you could  as you can with
anything you stare at long enough. But there cuts were amazing and so
were there attitudes supporting the cut.  Remember no matter how great
the hair looks, the personality will always leave the lasting
impression.

So find cuts you like in magazines or on line and the next time you go
to the salon, I hope I have inspired you enough to boldly ask for a
short, sexy and modern cut.

Copyright (c) 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

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Wednesday, September 3, 2008

THIS PRODUCT GETS MY STAMP OF APPROVAL



More on cellophanes

By popular demand I decided to write another article on Cellophanes by Sebastian. I have been using this product more often than before. Not only is it extremely safe for pregnant women, the shine is amazing. I am also personally tired of using glazes that contain small amounts of chemicals to add shine. If there is no grey to blend, why use chemicals?

This is how cellophanes are applied.

1) First I shampoo the client's hair well and then towel dry till about 70% of the water is gone.

2) I apply the clear cellophane from roots to ends with a color brush and then comb.

3) I clip the hair at the top of the head with a plastic clip and them cover with a shower cap or wrap with saran wrap.

4) I situate the client under the dryer for approximately 20 minutes and then allow five minutes for the hair to cool down.

5) After the hair has cooled, I rinse well and use a light conditioner.

6) The final step is to towel dry and style as usual.

Cellophanes come in many different shades which allow you to actually add temporary tones of color to your hair. They can be used after highlights or single processes. They can be used at the end of summer to add shine to dry, sun damaged hair and they are even safe for teenagers.

If you have any more questions please feel free to ask.

AFG


Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

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Tuesday, September 2, 2008

BEFORE AND AFTER

Not often I can take an the electric clippers to the sides of a teenager's hair, so when I have the opportunity I take full advantage.  Today was a good day!







Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

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NEW CUT & COLOR




Copyright © 2008 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

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