Friday, March 13, 2009

READER FROM AUSTRALIA





READER

Hi Antonio

I just read your whole blog. It was amazing. It got me very intrigued because you seem to know what you're doing. I live in Sydney and it's very hard to get a good stylist over here unless you've been recommended to them by someone else and I'm only 18, too young to make those kinds of connections. I find myself dreading going in for haircuts because it's always the same old routine and I'm currently going through some issues that have left me dying for a change, which I know will never happen. I was hoping you could help me. I have curly hair, it's currently a bit above bra strap level as after
that length it seems to just stop growing. It's very thin (I feel like I'm balding) at the top, very voluminous towards the bottom. As a result of curly hair, no matter how many treatments or products i use (and i use a decent amount), it is always dry. The hairdresser can never seem to recommend any styles for me that don’t end up looking just like my hair always used to, only a lot shorter and bigger (I don't think big hair is sexy). Since my hair is too thin i can't get bangs, and if i were to cut it short it would be very round which would not suit my face shape either. I'm torn, desperately wanting a change but not being able to ever achieve it. Do you have any suggestions?

Many Thanks,

Z.


AFG

Thank you for your email. It’s no fun dreading a visit to a hair stylist. Now, let’s get down to business. Since I don't know what your face shape is, I will answer generally. You are right to say that bangs may not be the answer for you, but there is a solution. Of course the texture of your hair does affect the cut, so let’s address that first.

TREATMENTS FOR HAIR TEXTURE
I recommend trying Voile Nuit; it's an overnight treatment by Kerastase. So instead of washing it off, you eave it on all night. My clients are loving it. It’s not cheap but worth the investment. (Remember, leave-in conditioners are made to be left on the
scalp. I hear people say they sometimes leave their daily conditioners in. I do not recommend doing this, because it may cause a light scalp reaction.) Intense treatments like this one can really make your hair feel and look great.




HELP FOR THINNING HAIR

I am asked this question everyday. And I always point to two approaches: biotin and folic acid I have read so many articles on these two treatments, and my clients have been trying them as well. Here are two links that will give you answers to any questions you may have.



Biotin (Vitamin H)

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.microscopy.fsu.edu/vitamins/images/biotin.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.microscopy.fsu.edu/vitamins/pages/biotin.html&usg=__EUjojXpL6D1fd7TZprzb8-IW9cA=&h=368&w=508&sz=84&hl=en&start=9&tbnid=nHomj3dPAF_M5M:&tbnh=95&tbnw=131&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dbiotin%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG

Folic Acid (Folate, Vitamin B-9)

http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://micro.magnet.fsu.edu/vitamins/images/folicacid.jpg&imgrefurl=http://micro.magnet.fsu.edu/vitamins/pages/folicacid.html&usg=__1_W79ALw5EZNs978coU6i4fxwWE=&h=368&w=508&sz=113&hl=en&start=23&tbnid=GJLL2eMtkY2g6M:&tbnh=95&tbnw=131&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dfolic%2Bacid%26gbv%3D2%26ndsp%3D18%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26start%3D18

HOW TO APPROACH THE CUT
I know it’s hard to find the right stylist. I would recommend looking for other people with curly hair and asking where they get their hair cut. To get the right cut for you, you have to take a few things into consideration. First of all, the hair at the top is finer and not as heavy as the lower length of your hair. This means that the top will have to be cut and styled differently from the lower half. But if you wet your hair the texture appears similar all over, and this, my friend, is the first pothole on the way to a hair crash. If your stylist is cutting away as if there is no difference in texture, you will get a shape that is, at best, unintentional.

Cutting your hair dry may be the answer. This way you can actually see how and where the hair is falling, which will prevent the stylist from cutting too much from an area where you may need length and weight. For example, if you are aiming for longer
hair with long layers, I would separate the lower and top section. I would start by cutting the length and layers of the lower section first, because it’s thicker and heavier. Then I would drop the top section, keeping in mind that I cannot connect the top and lower sections evenly. When layering the top I will keep the layers longer than the bottom part, so that when you wash and style with product (product is a must), it appears to be uniform. Remember, because your hair is fine on top, it sometimes frizzier and lighter in weight. The goal is to have your hair respond in a uniform manner. I use this technique on women who have curlier hair at the top and straighter hair at the bottom. It works.


CHOOSING A STYLE
I would recommend starting with a long hair cut with layers, keeping it simple. It’s important to find a stylist who will listen and be sensitive to your needs -- they do exist. When you feel comfortable with your new stylist, then you can approach a new do. At least you will have enough confidence in your stylist to move forward.

APPLYING PRODUCT
When applying products, the two areas (lower and upper) will have to be treated differently as well. You may want to use a heavier product on the lower half, since it’s voluminous. I recommend using Curl Conscious Curl Crème by Bumble and Bumble on the lower part. It’s heavy enough and is very hydrating. Then as you approach the top, you can combine two products, to get the proper yin and yang. I would start by applying a tiny amount of the Curl Conscious, then layer in a fair amount of the
Thickening Spray by Bumble and Bumble. The cream will hydrate the Curl, while the spray (because of its alcohol content) will dilute the cream enough, adding definition to your curl. Do not be concerned about the alcohol drying your hair even more. The hair will have been properly conditioned with your new treatment and the Curl Cream will dilute the alcohol. The cream and alcohol combo works well on many people, from my experience. You can air dry or lightly diffuse.



I know you know your hair better than anyone by now, so with the right cut and product I have faith that you will be well equipped to handle your locks.

I hope this was helpful and I look forward to more questions from you.

Copyright © 2009 Antonio Gonzales, All Rights Reserved

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